How do i build a canvass stretcher from scratch?

Question

I'm painting with oils on canvass, and would like to build my own canvass stretchers and stretch the canvass myself rather than buying them from an art store.

I've built canvass stretchers before and i've stretched canvas before. My main question is concerning the actual build of the stretcher bars. I typically cute my lengths with the corners cut at 45degrees. I then use corrugated joint fasteners to connect the corners. I'm wondering if there is a better way.

Answer 1

i like using screws in the sides at each corner. i hate corrugated fasteners. i wish i could draw you a picture... you put each corner in a clamp and then put the screw in from the outside edge. alternate each corner .. so that they switch from going in at the top to going in at the side... that way the sides won't turn or warp.
i don't know if you only use 1x2 or what... but i had a teacher that taught us to glue quarter rounds to the top of them and nail them in with small nails...that way the canvas touches a rounded surface and there is no sharp line that appears as you paint.
crossbars are good, too, if you are making a big painting. put them in at 45 degree angles on each corner. or you can just cut out plywood triangles and nail them to the back of the stretcher.

Answer 2

I am a custom framer. You can build your own stretcher bars by using a 1 x 2. Use the inexpensive soft lumber so you can staple into it. If you frame is quite large, you wil need to insert a spacer in the center so the frame will not bow when you are stretching. You don't need to mitre cut the corners if you don't want to because they won't show like they would on a frame. You can buy a good stretcher tool from United Manufacturers Supply or your local framer. I would suggest you get one. Center your piece and start in the center on all four sides and work your way around.
If you bring the color all the way around (what we call a gallery stretch) you can hang without a frame. This is really popular right now. P.S. You can get 1 x 2 from your local building supplier for about 2.00 per 8' stick.

Answer 3

If you make a lot of canvasses you could try a biscuit joiner with wood glue on the inside of the the 45 degree angles and a few finishing nails on the outside corners, but for a cost effective solid way yours is fine.

Answer 4

I cut a 2 x 4 at an 11 degree angle- lenghtwise. Then I do the 45 degree cuts. Assemble the pieces like a box (all angles going in)- glue, nail, and/or screw the corners. Put gussets on the back, and DONE! Ready for canvas.

Answer 5

All you need is a space big enough for two of the canvases the size you want stretched. Take your 2 frames and put them end to end, then lay down your canvas and staple the 2 end edges down. Then lift the two outside ends enough so that you can slip another piece of your frame wood in between the 2 frames. This will make the canvas now too small for the 2 frames and you will need to press both stapled ends back down to the floor and weight them or get someone to hold them down. This will stretch out the canvas and allow you to come down the outside edges stapling the canvas down. When it's nailed down both sides pretty well, pick it up in the middle and staple on then the other, then cut them apart.

Answer 6

I was taught by my prof in college to use 1"x4"s flat, overlapping at 90 degrees on the corners, screwed together. Then use 1/4" by however thick you like your canvas, I use 2 3/8ths", strip molding around the edge. You can use tack nails all the way around, making the molding flush with the higher edge of the 1x4's to make the canvas or painting side of the stretcher. Staple from the center of each side all the way around and then fold the corners. This method makes sturdy, thick canvases with edges large enough to paint if you wish, or just to make your image pop off of the wall more. If you don't like that look just get thinner molding.

Answer 7

I've done this myself. You basically make get four pieces of wood the appropriate length and width that you want. Nail them together. Then apply the canvas. Keep searching online to find a site that makes sense to you. It's really not difficult. I learned how to do this by taking an art course. Maybe you might like to do that too?

Answer 8

Some art stores sell the the stretchers on parts, you buy the wood sides on the pre-cut lengths you need and then you join the pre-cut 45 degree angle (they are male - female joints, some carpenter glue might make stronger the union).

They come many different lengths, and if they are not more expensive than the wood you buy then they are worth to try. Besides you don't have to spend time cutting and measuring.

Answer 9

Just use pliers against a small block on the underside. The rabbit hair glue will further shrink it when drying and will produce a fine surface. if it's too tight it will snap a frame.

no need for fancy 45 degree cuts, just use wood glue and nails, then plywood triangles and squares at the intersections of the braces and frame. Keeps it light too.

Answer 10

That's what I do here when I'm not typing a response. I build machinery that solves problems or make automation easier. I also build fighting robots, called battlebots, and I have never been defeated. I could not begin to name all the things I have built over the years. Hopefully one of my creations will make me rich. I'm looking forward to the day I have my own infomercial.