Ok here's the deal.
Part 1.
Q. during the cycle when my nitrite levels spike should i change some (10-15%) of the water or just let it run its course?
You can use water changes to lower levels yes. There is a trade off doing so. By reducing the fuel source, your bacteria will have less of it necessary to grow with. You have to use a balanced judgement when deciding to water change or not. If the levels are approaching lethal levels, by all means take some action. If they are just appearing to be elevated, ride it out. Damage from nitrite exposure takes a little longer to occur then does with ammonia, but is by no means safe for them to live in long term.
Q2. If i use biospira (which, at this point seems easier) will it get all the nitrate, nitrite and ammonia levels ok for me to add the fish and not have to do any other maintenance other than regularly check and change the water?
No it will not. Problem here with Biospira is mixed results. I have used it, on three different tanks, and I have not seen the immediate results it claims to do. I saw a lowering in my levels of ammonia and nitrite, but nothing significant enough for me to advocate using it extensively. Problems with Biospira is this:
1. Biospira claims to instantly cycle your tank. This does not make much sense. How does Biospira address different populations univerisally? They cannot. What if my population was a 90 gallon tank with 2 adult Oscars, and some medium sized community fish with a wet/dry filtration, air stone and all the proper emplacements to support that life? The amount of bacteria necessary to oxidize that kind of bio load is certainly going to be much more then say a 90 gallon tank full of Neon Tetras. Biospira does not address this. If you were to populate the tank with heavy waste production fish, you would still be exposing those fish to toxic water chemistry and the colony put in from that culture would not be capable of oxidizing that load.
2. Problem 2 is not knowing the capability of the bacteria until you introduce your population. There is nothing to say you got a bad bag of bacteria and assuming thier claims are accurate and the culture did not expire, you'd be populating that tank on that basis. Should that have been a bad batch, you're not going to know this for a day or two and by then, you already have a full stocking in your tank, and they are producing massive ammounts of ammonia which is not likely to be oxidized fast enough to prevent any deaths.
Basically you really want to avoid the Biospira route because you roll the dice with it no matter how you look at it. You will hear some success stories, but I have not heard nearly enough postive stories to advocate extensive use of this product. No matter what you will not be able to eliminate the need for water changes, there is no product I know if you can employ that is going to cut that out of the equation. Just be patient, and I have to say I think it's wonderful you care enough to take the time to research this before just jumping into the hobby. Hats off to you for that :)
JV
2007-05-29 07:12:50
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answer #1
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answered by I am Legend 7
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If you're cycling with fish, then yes you'll want to do a partial water change when the nitrites spike. If no fish, then no, let it be to run it's course.
With biospira, never used it, but it's my understanding you want to add it the same time you add fish, because the bacteria needs an ammonia source to survive. It's supposed to cycle the tank quicker, I believe it takes a few days to about a week from what I've read on it. And the levels should be good, as long as the tank isn't overstocked.
2007-05-29 07:09:25
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answer #2
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answered by tikitiki 7
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Hopefully these help:
Q: What do I do during the Nitrite Spike
A: Depends on the cycle you're performing. I ususally do Fishless Cycles. When working with a fishless cycle, when you see a Nitrite Spike, you simply cut the amount of ammonia you feed into the tank each day in half. No water change is done until you see no ammonia, no nitrite and a nitrate spike. :)
Q: Will Biospira get your ammonia, nitrite and nitrates set appropriately and prepare the tank for a normal load?
A: I've heard rumors that it does, and rumors that it doesn't, but I honestly have not had much experience with the product. I much prefer to cycle my own tanks so I'm positive that each spike has been reached. :) Plus, the time spent cycling allows me to research my tanks inhabitants and select some really cool aquascape items!
2007-05-29 07:08:21
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answer #3
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answered by Becca 4
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Personally I would avoid any of the additives that claim to assist in cycling the tank unless you can be 100% sure it's been handled correctly, stored correctly and is not expired. Which means usually not trusting it at all.
If you have fish in the tank during the cycling process you will need to change enough water to keep both the ammonia and nitrites in a reasonably safe range for the fish. If you have no fish in the tank and are using a fishless cycle method there is no need to change the water during the cycle at all.
MM
2007-05-29 07:17:01
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answer #4
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answered by magicman116 7
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Biospira claims to contain some patent pending species of nitrifying bacteria that will cycle your tank in 24 hours. Some of the FishLore forum members have tried it and it sounds like it is legitimate. It is kind of expensive, but if you already have fish in your tank and they are suffering through the cycle, you may want to check this stuff out. 1 ounce of this product is supposed to treat a 30 gallon freshwater tank. There are both freshwater and saltwater versions of Bio-spira.
suggested reading: http://www.fishlore.com/NitrogenCycle.htm
2007-05-29 07:08:18
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answer #5
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answered by fbfriends 4
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Ask your doctor for clomid. If your luteal phase isn't exactly 14 days it's a sign you aren't releasing eggs just having the hormone surge. I took clomid and conceived within 3 cycles each time.
2016-05-20 23:40:56
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answer #6
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answered by mindi 3
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