Problems with fish tank...?

Question

I cleaned my tank last Tuesday, 50% water change, and gave it a good vacuum and scraped the algae off.... but I already have some algae showing on the glass - only a week later! Is this normal? The fish are all hanging around the top of the tank as well... I have fake plants and only 5 danios and 3 mollies.... what's going on?

To answer some of your replies - my tank is not in direct sunlight at all.

I've just been searching on the net and found that the brown algae I have could in fact be because there is not ENOUGH light... since I cleaned last week, I only put my light on in the tank for maybe 2 hours a day because I thought that the algae growth was because of too much light.. maybe I need to try and leave light on for longer and see what happens??
I also added an air bubble bar (don't know proper name, sorry!) at the back of the tank - that would not cause any problems surely??

Answer 1

Algae grows because of a combination of two things, too much light and too much nutrients in the water. It sounds like your tank is getting too much light.

Light is easy to control. Unless you have live plants (and you say you don't), turn off the lights unless you are actually there watching the fish. Fish do not need lights. The tank should not be placed in front of a window.

The nourishment is a little harder to control. You should only be feeding your fish once a day and only as much as they will eat in 2-3 minutes. I follow this procedure, and also skip a day once a week. A hungry fish is a happy fish.

Regular weekly partial (25-30%) water changes are very important and something you should be doing anyway, if you are not, then starting to do them will go a long way toward removing excess nutrients from the water. The end result of the nitrogen cycle going on in every aquarium is nitrates. Nitrates are what plants eat. Algae is a plant. Too big of a water change at one time will cause fish a lot of stress if it has been a long time since the last one.

As the toxins build up slowly over a period of time, fish will get used to it because it happens slowly. They will still be stressed because of the increasing amounts of ammonia, nitrites and nitrates but will not show it until it gets to the point of actually damaging them. Then it can be too late. A large water change at this point will change all the water parameters and even the pH (which drops as the toxins go up) by up to 1/2 point on the pH scale and even more sometimes. A 1/2 point abrupt change in pH can send fish into pH shock and sometimes kill them if they are in a weakened condition from the poor water conditions previously.

You say you vaccuumed the gravel good. You should only be doing 1/2 of the gravel every 2-3 weeks. First the left or right side, then the right or left side. You don't want to remove too many of your beneficial bacteria at once. I have tanks that have been set up for over 6 years without a tear down using these maintenance schedules.

You don't say how big your tank is, you may have too many fish in it. Is your filter running? Actually moving the surface of the water? Did you use dechlorinator?

Bottom line is, partial weekly water changes are the most important thing you can do to keep your fish and your tank healthy and happy. Feed less and turn off the light when you are not there to watch the fish.

Answer 2

I would start by trying to keep the tank from direct sunlight where possible - this will only cause algae to grow at a much faster rate - alcoves are always good for fish tanks.

Fish will always tend to spend more time at the top in a tank that isn't so well oxegenated.
Invest in a good pump or regularly clean the one you already have - continual water movenment will help keep the tank clean and the fish happy. It might also be worth investing in a Pterygoplichthys multuradiatus (pleco). It will eat any algae and will live peacefuly alongside almost every other fish.

Good luck

Answer 3

Make sure your tank is not in direct sunlight. Always AWAY from the window.

I had a tank that got light for a few hours a day and the algae was HORRIBLE. Moved it...and viola...problem solved!

Answer 4

First things first, did you feed them ??? If not, that's why they are hanging up there. The algae that is left behind has probably been busy with reproduction that made them grow in quantity. How to solve it... clean you tank more often or buy a type of fish that eats dirt (not sure the name, sorry).

Answer 5

Did you change the filter box because some algae could be sucked in and when switched on again the water would be blown out and making the fish sick.

Answer 6

way too much light. is your tank in front of a window getting sunshine?do you leave the light on all day and night? turn lights off when you are not home and at night

Answer 7

you're over feeding. Left over meals reasons risky micro organism that consumes oxygen. Oder is likewise brought about by potential of micro organism. (to not be perplexed with useful micro organism) subsequently bypass that chemical. strengthen your clear out length. Feeder fish nor any fish are mandatory to start algae. gentle is (the greater gentle the greater & swifter algae strengthen). you apart from mght could have presented to many fish to right away in the event that they're gold fish feeders as they have an inclination to be "grimy" by potential of nature. additionally time-honored rule a million" of fish in step with gal. of water. I take you propose DE-CHLORINATOR not chlorine chemical compounds as chlorine kills fish. If the water have been left as long as you pronounced chlorine remover does not be mandatory. Chlorine could expend interior 40 8 hours at general room temperature. In new tanks with the aid of fact no useful bacterial have yet stepped forward a surprising intro of that many fish could desire to truly start up clouding with little filtration. The aeration is help finished save it going. Given approximately 5days with much less meals the tank could desire to sparkling up. you are able to desire to apply a chemical like "sparkling" that reasons "airborne dirt and airborne dirt and dust" molecules to bond and be filtered out greater somewhat or sink to the backside, whether it is going to sparkling without it. decrease returned to a million or 2 pinches an afternoon and determine they consume it in below 5 minutes. placed your money right into a greater useful clear out and purchase chemical compounds basically while nessary. do not sparkling the tank & clear out on an identical time. in case you do your removing each and all of the useful micro organism at as quickly as and you will could desire to start the technique over as quickly as greater. sparkling one or the different wait 5-7days and then sparkling the different. you will not could desire to purchase starter em-zines. Do use declorinator while doing water variations or addind fish earlier 40 8 hrs. except you have properly water.

Answer 8

keep it out of the sun and try changing your gravel i did and don't seem to get the problem anymore,you could even use marbles there easier to clean and look good to if you find some nice ones.

Answer 9

if its near the sun it will grow like wild fire.fish tanks need to be put in a shaded area

Answer 10

Weekly growth is normal for algae. It's not like cleaning your windows off....it is a constant battle to keep it out of the tank.

Having a clean tank filled with healthy, colorful fish provides a fun and relaxing experience.

The schedule for cleaning your fish tank will depend primarily on:

Tank Placement - The reason the setup is important when it comes to maintenance and cleaning is that if you place the tank in a location hard to get to, chances are it will not be cleaned on a regular schedule. Therefore, make sure the placement of the tank is such to give you adequate room.

Tank Size - Interestingly, a larger tank actually requires less maintenance than a smaller tank. The reason is that the larger tank has more water volume, meaning the waste excreted by the fish along with chemicals and other particles are dispersed over a much larger area. Therefore, if you buy a 10-gallon tank opposed to a 50-gallon tank, you can expect to clean the smaller one more often.

Filtration System - A filtration system is crucial to keeping the tank clean and the environment healthy. Many people will use biological filtration, which allows the right amount of "good" bacteria to grow while maintaining the proper level of Nitrite coupled with a mechanical filter or chemical filter. The mechanical consists of a box that fits within the tank in which some type of media is used to filter out waste and other particles. The chemical filter uses chemical media such as carbon or chemical resins to absorb the waste.

Feeding Habits - One of the most common mistakes made by fish owners is that they feed the fish too much and too often. When there is excess food in the water, it causes pollution. Therefore, purchase the appropriate food for the fish you have and read the instructions to feed them only as much as they will eat in one setting and to know how often they should be fed.

Number of Fish - The general rule for fish is that for every gallon of water, you should have no more than one-inch of slim-bodied fish. When a tank is filled with too many fish, there is excessive waste, food particles, and chemicals floating around, making maintenance difficult as well as the tank unhealthy


The key is that you do not want overfeed the fish, maintain a quality filtration system, and keep the number of
fish down to a manageable number. The easiest way to stay on track is to follow the simply guideline below:

Daily

Fish, just like any other pet, need to be cared for on a daily basis. Although fish do not have the same level of requirements for daily care, they do need to be looked after on a consistent basis.

Feeding - Feed the fish, again taking care to feed only as much as what will be eaten immediately

Water Temperature - Check the water temperature, keeping in mind temperatures will fluctuate throughout the day. Therefore, test the water each morning and then again in the evening. To maintain a healthy tank, you should keep a chart of your findings so you can identify any problems before they turn out of control.


Equipment Check - Make sure the filter, heater, and lights are working properly

Behavior Check - Take a few minutes to watch the fish to see if they are swimming normally. Additionally, look at their skin, looking for any sign of disease.

Water Check - Look at the water to ensure it is not cloudy, does not have a foul odor, and
that nothing out of the norm is floating around


Weekly

In addition to the daily responsibilities of owning fish, there are certain things that will need to be done on a weekly basis as well.

Plants - If you keep live plants in your fish tank, be sure any dead leaves are removed and excess plant growth trimmed

Algae - Using an algae magnet or scraper, clean off algae from the front glass as well as decorations

Water Change - Using a siphon hose, remove large debris from the surface and then with a bucket nearby, siphon about 15% of the tank's water into the bucket. When finished, replace the water with clean tap water that has been treated for chlorine or chloramines. While doing this, you might place a stiff plastic divider between the area you are cleaning and the fish so that you do not accidentally suck any up in the tubing. Additionally, with the siphon running, you can tap the tip down into the gravel to help remove any fallen debris.

Glass - Take a clean cloth and spray it with window cleaner, away from the tank so that none gets in the water and then, simply clean off the front and side glass areas.

Every Two to Three Weeks

Finally, about every two to three weeks, you will need to do another water change but this time, siphoning out more water. It is important to understand that regardless of the type of tank or filtration system you have, every tank needs to be thoroughly cleaned at least once a month. By doing this on a regular basis, you will keep the level of nutrients where they should be, eliminate waste and other particulate matter, reduce microbe populations, and maintain the fish?s metabolism. When this type of cleaning has been performed, you will notice happier and healthier fish, a fresher smelling tank, low levels of algae growth, and brighter and clearer water.

What happens if the tank is not cleaned on a regular basis is that high levels of ammonia and toxic Nitrite develop, killing off the fish. Remember, it is imperative that as much food, décor dirt, fish excrement, and other floating particles are removed. While there are several ways this type of water change could be done, we will share with you our recommendation.

Now, remember that this water change will be done in addition to the weekly partial change. The weekly change, as mentioned, will only remove about 15% of the water while this water change will remove as much as 50%. However, to ensure you do not put your fish into shock or remove too much of the good bacterium, you should not go above the 50% level. Additionally, the best way to stay on track with this schedule is to keep a log of when the water changes are made. This way, you will change the water often enough without changing it too often.

In this case, you will siphon out the water, allowing it to flow into a clean bucket. During the siphoning process, you can remove some of the debris from the bottom by tapping the tip of the siphon hose on the bottom of the tank. Take care not to siphon any fish out as well as plants or gravel. This is also the perfect opportunity to scrap off any excess algae from the glass or decorations. You can also add new gravel if necessary and replace any filter media.

When done, dump the dirty water, rinse the bucket, and refill it with clean tap water. If the water has chlorine in it, you will need to treat it prior to adding it back into the tank. Additionally, you want to try to get the water temperature of the new water as close as possible to the water left in the tank so the fish do not become overly stressed.

Then very slowly pour the water from the bucket back into the tank, taking care not to dump it on the fish. If you notice some of the debris being stirred up, do not be alarmed in that you cannot remove all the waste, nor would you want to. Be sure you leave about two inches of space at the top of the tank, giving the fish oxygenation. Once the tank is filled, you can sit back and enjoy a beautiful, clean tank.

Twice a Year

Finally, in addition to the above maintenance schedule, you will also need to perform some tasks for your fish tank on a bi-weekly basis.

Filters will need to be cleaned but not too clean. Since filters consist of bacteria needed to eliminate ammonia and keep Nitrite at a healthy level for the fish, you do not want to clean the filters thoroughly. Instead, tap the filter plates or grids off and then run them through running tap water. Another option is to dip the plates or grids in a clean bucket of water, dipping them in and out a few times to remove the larger pieces of debris. The important thing is that you never scrub the filter plates or grids to keep the integrity of the "good" bacteria.

If the filter media, whether carbon, a sponge, or floss is beyond a point of rinsing, you want to replace it. However, you do not want to replace all of the media at once. Instead, replace one, wait a week, and then replace another.

To keep as much bacteria as possible on the filter without it dying, conduct any filter maintenance quickly. The less time you keep the plates or grids and media out of the water the better.

Lights - If your fish tank has fluorescent lighting, be sure the bulbs are replaced every six months, even if they have not gone out.

Heater ? Check the heater and thermostat again, making sure they are in excellent working order.


Other tips to make the maintenance and cleaning process easier would include the following:

Siphoning - If your regular water siphon does not clean the gravel well, you can purchase a hose that is about two to three inches in diameter to do the job. These extensions are sold at most pet stores and simply fit onto the end of the siphon hose.
Bacteria - Not every piece of dirt has to be removed to have a clean tank. Remember, you want a certain degree of bacteria in your tank, which is what keeps the ammonia and nitrite levels where they should be.
Water Level - If you have a glass tank, when you do siphon out the water, take care that the level does not go below the heater thermostat in that the temperature chance might cause the glass to crack.
Tap Water - Depending on the speed in which the water is replaced and the size of your fish tank, the tap water you add might need to be heated first, which can be done simply by turning it to warm instead of cool. Keep in mind that most fish can handle a two to three degree drop in temperature without any problem but anything more could cause the fish to go into shock.

With a clean tank, you will actually enjoy it far more. First, you will be able to see the fish, plants, decorations, and so on. Two, the fish will be more active because they will be healthy and happy. With a little bit of care on a consistent basis, you should not have any major problems with your fish tank!


Alternatively get an algae eater. A whole range on the 2nd link below and some very good advice on how to keep them fed if there isn't enough algae just yet.