Paint over wood paneling?

Question

There is a room in my (grandma's) house that hasn't been lived in in about 30 years. It had become the "junk room" of her house, completely filled with old mail and old clothes and old baby toys. I've been working on clearing it out the past few weeks on garbage days and I've just about got it all done. The walls are disgusting as is the carpet, and we need to fix it all up for somebody to live in. So I have a few questions!

1) Would you recommend painting the walls or putting new carpet in first?

2) There's scum on the walls, and water marks streaking down from rain getting in through the window. Saying this, do you think I would be able to handle fixing up and painting the walls myself or should I hire someone?

3) About how much would it cost to hire someone for the painting job?

4) One of the walls has wood paneling with groove lines down each panel, and the other 3 are just flat white walls... how can I make the wood panels flat to match the other walls?

Thanks!

Answer 1

1. Absolutely, paint first.
I would pull up the old carpet And pad first, `tho. It is going to be VERY dirty (dirt and dust will go Everywhere) and could scratch your new walls if it is stiff and/or put down with tacks.
Simply fold the edges of the longest walls to meet in the center and roll towards exit door(don`t carry it any further than you have to, right?) This makes a nice tight compact roll easier to handle and fit through doors/dumpster. Then, if you want to save the floor underneath i.e hardwood, 2mil plastic drop cloth is Very inexpensive as is painter`s tape for the edges and seams. Lots of luck with the nail and tack holes from the carpet installation `tho. These are next to impossible to hide completely.

2. a. Like another`s answer here, I`m not sure what you mean by "scum" but if it`s hard, crusty, and not too thick, light scraping and/or sanding should get it. If it`s oily or sticky i.e glue residue, Goof-Off is a great "getter offer"(:> Keep in mind `tho that ANY liquid you use will soak into the sheetrock unless existing paint is enamel. Here, is where you should get a professional bid. If they are reputable, they will tell you what they think this is and you can go from there.
b. 30+ years ago people had a luxury we don`t have, leaving windows open a little for fresh air etc. So, if the water got in through the open window you have nothing to worry about. Just use Kilz primer as has been suggested. UNLESS...sorry, if it smells of mildew the sheetrock under the window is ruined. That smell Never goes away. If you have the time, once you remove the carpet and pad, leave the room closed up for a few days and come back in from the fresh air. If it`s there, you`ll smell it.
To check to see if the window is leaking somewhere, close the window good and from outside take a water hose and run water ALL over for a good while varying the intensity. Good to have a helper inside at this point to spot any water for you.
If it`s leaking re-caulking is in order. DON`T get in a hurry and make the mistake of caulking Over the existing bad caulk. For a Proper job the old caulk needs to be dug out first. This is Not as hard as it sounds. Most caulk on these older houses are Really dry, has lost it`s "adhesiveness", and easy to pick out with an icepick or similar. Just be careful around the glass and pick away from it (towards yourself).
3. Bunches. Do It Yourself. But DO get the bid. see 2a.
4. I`m a woodgrain person and won`t paint "Real" wood paneling so, if you like the grain just not the color, take the Same paint you do the other walls with and thin it with what ever thinner the paint calls for and "tint" the wood paneling. You`ll still have the wood grain and it`ll be the same color all around. Makes a Very striking accent wall. Thin a Small cupful VERY thin and try spots on the wood, adding more paint each time `til you get the tint you like. You can Always add more paint to your tint mix but you can`t thin it once it`s on the wood (:> Lightly sand paneling `til dull and tint away. Let the First coat dry completely and you won`t need a primer.
If you simply want the natural wood Gone, then sand `till dull paying particular attention to the grooves. A "case" knife handle with sandpaper wrapped around works well. (Don`t use your grandma`s Silver(:> If you know any bricklayers, ask to borrow/buy their "Joint Raker" tool (some call them "strikers") these are perfect for sanding grooves. Then, if you`re Sure the grooves are sanded good, fill them with wallboard compound With Latex! Regular wallboard compound will crack with Any movement of the house/paneling (old houses DO move That`s what all the creaking and groaning noise is). I think it`s easier to use a caulking gun (you might have had to use one for the windows Anyway, right?) with painter`s caulk. Either way, Spread evenly up and down at Least the same width as your putty knife, or wider, sand `til level with your paneling and paint using a primer or more than one coat as above.
Well, guess that`s it. If you`d like to lay your own carpet and pad, email me or direct a question here and I`ll give you step-by-step tips. I can send pics and diagrams etc via email. Don`t know if I can post same here or not. Anybody?
Good Luck! RT

Answer 2

I painted my old house, which has wood paneling, and it was SUCH a pain in the butt! But it can be done. Paint first, because you don't want to risk getting paint on a brand new carpet. Use a light color paint since the paneling absorbs a lot of the paint. I needed 3 coats of colored primer and five coats of paint, but I used a really dark brownish-red color. That's what took so long - to get the color even. So use a light beige or a white.
Scum on the walls? That worries me - you could have some real damage. Normal painting you should be able to do by yourself, but something like is probably worth at least getting a bid on it.
I have no idea how much it should cost, but I'd think a couple hundred dollars for a whole room. More if you need a little patch work.
The only way I'd think to have all the walls match is to either take the paneling down completely and hang new wallboard, or texture all four walls to match. Texture the paneling to smooth out the grooves and the run light texture over the wallboard walls.
Hope that helps!

Answer 3

Painting the room shouldn't be a problem as long as you get rd of the water marks first. They will give you the product you need at your local paint store to do that. Hiring someone for any job can be iffy. Get an exact dollar amount ahead of time ad get at least three estimates if you don't want to do the work yourself. And whatever you do, never, ever pay someone ahead of time, maybe a little beforehand ad the rest upon completion if it's an issue.

Dealing with the paneling, pull one piece away from the wall to see what shape the wall is behind the paneling. It could be an easy way to hide damage on the wall behind.
If the wall seems in tact then I would just pull the paneling off the wall and fill the nail holes with some light spackle or hole filler. If the holes are small enough you can actually use white toothpaste to fill the holes. Then I would paint the room and have carpeting installed afterward. That way if there's any damage done, it's up to the carpet guys to fix. It's a lot easier to spot paint than it is to get paint off carpet.

It sounds like you're taking on a lot of work but if you go one step at a time, you'll be fine. Good luck.

Answer 4

Maybe I'm too nervous.........but I'd want to know what's behind the walls especially since there's been some water leakage. I know it's a potential disaster, but with mold concerns these days. Afterall, why is there paneling in that room anyway.......what's it hiding?

I'd peek behind the wall with the window and maybe tha major side wall. If both are fine........PHEW! Replace the paneling. If not, then address the problem.

The leaky window was hopefully just a chaulking issue. An easy repair. Also make certain the molding around the window is in good condition as well as the window workings. Make any other repair to the structural or mechanical parts of the room.

Then if you are painting the paneling first wash it with TSP...trisodium phosphate. That removed years of yuck. Then two coats of a primer such as KILZ....but make sure you get the right KILZ. There are several different types. Finally a latex paint should make the room look nifty.

In your initial exploration, pull up some of the carpet to see what's underneath. Could be you may want to pull the old and clean the floors well before the new stuff arrives. It can get pretty skanky under there.

Answer 5

Step one - LEAVE THE CARPET until you are finished painting. This way if you drip - you don't have to worry about it!

Step two - Wash ALL of the walls with a mild detergent and a white cotton rag (won't leave any lint behind).

Step three - (if there isn't undamaged drywall behind it) sand the wood panel wall. Don't worry about the grooves in the paneling. It will add a detail to the room. If the new owners don't like it - let them deal with it - it won't make or break your deal.

Step four - Prime the ENTIRE room (Ceiling too) with Kilz Latex Mildew resistant primer. *If there was or is moisture in the wall or room, this stuff will keep the mildew under control!

Step five - paint the entire room ONE color (ceiling is optional). If there is a lot of natural light I would go for a darker tawny tan (matches ALL floor colors) - if there isn't a lot of natural light - find a lighter sage green or something that looks really fresh - just avoid Beige - it leaves a bad taste in the mouth of buyers now-a-days.

This will probaly consume a weekend for you - You can do steps 1-4 on a Saturday and step 5 on a Sunday and still have Sunday afternoon to yourself. Get Flat Latex Wall paint - it will hide any dents or dings in the walls better than a gloss or semi-gloss (that is why rental properties use it).

You can go to any home improvement store and have them install the flooring you buy for a VERY reasonable price. Unless you have the tools and the knowledge - I'd leave it a professional for that one! Many will actaully install it for free and haul away the old stuff. AND who knows you may pull back the carpet to reveal hardwood floors - lucky you!

Answer 6

1) I would recommend painting walls first. No worries about paint on new carpet. You will probably have to touch up paint after the carpet installers. They habitually scratch something.

2) The window issue is more serious. My main concern is that there is mold inside the wall where you can't see. You may want to have that window replaced. A leaky window can only cause more problems and cost more money as time goes on.

As for the scum, I would lightly scrub the wall with a brush and then treat it like the other guy said with Kilz or a similar stain blocking paint.

3. Probably 4-5 times the cost of paint.

4. If you ever taped sheet rock joints it would be very similar. If you never taped sheet rock joints and really don't feel that you will be using that skill very often, don't do it. But if you want to learn you will get lots of practice.
a. I would use self adhesive tape for the groves. paper or fiberglass
b. Using a 6 inch putty knife put your first layer of joint compound. Don't worry about hiding the tape the first time around. You will save lots of time doing multiple thin layers rather than trying to get it perfect in one or two coats.
c. Next use a slightly larger mudding knife/trowel. 8 in or 10.
d. Then feather the mud using a 12 in trowel.
e. lightly sand.
5. On the wood wall use a wood and panel primer. They sell this kind for sure at Sherwin Williams.

Answer 7

1. I would paint before doing new flooring, so you can spill and splatter worry free

2. You can do it yourself, but be sure any leak in the window frame is fixed first. As the previous answer said, clean the wall as much as possible and apply a high grade primer (do not go cheap on the primer!).

3. I never hire painters so don't have an answer

4. I would paint the paneling the same color as the other walls with the grooves intact. Painted paneling adds a bit of a country look to a house and can be quite attractive, and avoids the enormous undertaking of filling in the grooves with putty and trying to make it smooth.

To paint paneling- lightly sand it to roughen it up a bit, clean well to remove dust, then apply a high quality primer, then paint. Tinting the primer will help ensure uniform color.

Answer 8

This doesn't really answer the question, but if you are putting in wood floors why not 86 the paneling? Painted paneling looks like cr-p especially when you have a nicely installed floor contrasting against it. Even if you paint it you still get those vertical lines. It's like having a nice looking '69 Chevelle with cheap discount tires - bald ones at that. If you decide you don't like the way the wall looks after the floor goes in and wanted to get rid of it you could damage the floor. Remember you will have to look at those walls for a long time.

Answer 9

if its actual wood paneling you are better off just leaving it alone -- find a color that is complimentary -- a warm taupe or gray that is fresh paint but looks what they called "tea stained" (aged and discolored) in the decorating business would be good. you don't want anything that is going to make it stick out (bright fresh clean colors or white) but you really don't want to mess with it. painted over wood paneling looks really bad and taking it down is a chore.

fake paneling that is in 4' sheets is easier to pull down and paint over. you want to use a texture paint and roller so you don't get lots of brush marks everywhere if you want it to look professional.

you can do all the work yourself and save big bucks if you have time. "scum" is a little too generic to tell you what to do with it. you need to seal off the windows -- some caulking is usually fine. kind of poke at the water marks to make sure you don't have any serious water damage. you can paint over water marks with killz brand paint that is sold at walmart. water marks will bleed through most paint.

Answer 10

1) Paint first...
2) Yes, you can clean them yourself. Just use any mild cleaner - dish soap will work. Let it dry thoroughly before painting.
3) Hundreds of dollars
4) You can use joint compound to fill in the grooves. It comes pre-mixed. You fill in the ridges, let it dry, lightly sand to make it flat, and take a damp clothe to any residue.

Use primer on all walls, especially the one where you are filling in the grooves.

You can do this...the processes are very simple and doing it yourself will not only save you $, but will give you a sense of accomplishment. ☺