small handgun for a small girl?

Question

I am 21 years old, 5'0, 100 pounds. I've never been a big fan of guns but my boyfriend and I are talking about getting a house and we both agreed that I'd need to buy my own gun that I was comfortable shooting for my own self defense if that time ever came. I can look at pictures of guns all day long but I don't fully understand them. What are differences in all these guns? The Kel-Tec P3AT .380 caught my eye. When I looked up S&W J-Frame snub nose .38, I just got confused with what I really need. My research so far has gotten me almost convinced I need a .38 or a .22. Any good choices/recommendations? After I get an idea, I'll go to my local gun shop and shoot different guns to see what's right for me. I need something that I'll be confident shooting, and something that will do enought damage to my enemy long enough for me to get away. Any advice will help me! Thanks!

Answer 1

I'd highly recommend a Springfield Armory EMP 9mm, or the Springfield Armory XD Subcompact, which comes in 9mm and .40S&W. Both of these guns are small and lightweight, making them ideal carry firearms. You can also get the XD Compact in .45 GAP (Glock Auto Pistol, as opposed to your standard .45 ACP for auto colt pistol). You'll have to try for yourself to see if that fits your hand. You'll also need to figure out if you can handle the kick of the .45 GAP or the .40S&W. The EMP will eventually come in .40S&W, but the test in American Rifleman said that with a barrel that short, it was hard to control the .40S&W version.

I wouldn't go as small as a .22 unless you absolutely find you can't handle anything more. There just isn't a lot of stopping power there to stop a determined attacker very easily.

It seems you are mostly looking at revolvers. I've recommended autoloaders. Here is, in my opinion, the pros and cons. Bear with me if you know any of this, but I don't know your level of knowledge.

Revolver:
1. Double Action (DA) trigger pull. A DA trigger means that one single pull of the trigger both sets the hammer and then drops it to set off the round. By comparison, a Single Action (SA) trigger only drops the hammer; the hammer is set by some other action. In a SA revolver, the hammer is set manually (that's what cowboy's are doing in the movies when they "fan" the hammer). In a SA autoloader (most are SA) like the two I mentioned, the slide that moves back as the spent casing is ejected also sets the hammer back. What this all means is that it takes more effort to pull a DA trigger than it does a SA trigger. I have known folks your size who had trouble with DA trigger pulls.
2. Revolvers also don't always have safeties (some do of course). This is a pro and a con. It is good because in a pinch you just pull and fire, not trying to possibly fumble around with a safety. The con is twofold, both obviously dealing with safety. First, there is a risk of accidentally pulling the trigger as you pull the firearm. Second, well, second is that there is no safety. Statistically this increases your likelihood of accidental firing.
3. Less rounds. Almost all the J-Frames have a 5 round capacity. For the XD subcompact, you can use a 10 round or 16 round magazine for 9mm (some states won't let you use the 16 round magazine), and 10 or 12 for the .40S&W model. With the compact .45 GAP, you can do 10 or 13 rounds. That's minimum twice the rounds. One of the things you need to understand is that with smaller caliber firearms, it will probably take more than one shot.
4. Slower to reload. A revolver requires you to load each round manually, or, if you have a speed loader, you can do them all at once. Even then, you still need to open the cylinder, empty the spent casings, put your speedloader in, detach it, toss it/pocket it, close the cylinder. In an autoloader, you only need to press a button to drop the magazine, pull another loaded magazine and pop it in. The slide kicks forward leaving the hammer set and loading your next round. Add together slower reloading with less rounds in the first place, and you might have yourself a big problem in an emergency.
5. No jams. Unless there is a catastrophic failure in the firearm, you will always be able to pull and fire. I will say that I have had problems dislodging spent casings before, so this COULD be a problem while reloading.

Autoloaders:
1. SA trigger. This is a pro in terms of trigger pull weight, but can also be a con. You basically have 3 ways to carry a SA autoloader, and none of them are necessarily ideal. First is cockedandlocked, which means you put the first magazine in, pull the slide, which puts a round in the chamber while also setting the hammer. You then put the safety on and carry it like that. To fire you just pull and disengage the safety with your thumb. Newer SA autoloaders are far safer than they used to be, but you still run the risk of accidentally disengaging the safety and have the gun a bump or drop away from accidental discharge. The next option is to put a magazine in, but don't rack the slide. This is much safer, but it also means you don't have a round in the chamber. To fire you'll have to rack the slide once first. That kinda sucks in say a mugging. The third option is to put the magainze in, rack the slide to set the hammer and put a round in the chamber, then manually depress the hammer. All you have to do is manually thumb back the hammer when you are ready to fire. Again, slower than pull and fire. Some older models may not also have a firing pin block, meaning a drop at this point could cause accidental discharge. Most newer models don't have that problem. As you can see, with the hammer down, you cannot fire just by pulling the trigger. Safer, but also slower. Also, the XD I mentioned at the top has added safety features making cockedandlocked extremely safe, so if you buy that one, just make sure you carry it with the safety on.
2. You can buy DA autoloaders, as well as DA/SA autoloaders (the first pull is DA but the slide then sets the hammer after that, making follow-up shots SA). Obviously has the same trigger pull problems as a DA revolver though.
3. Jams. This is usually the biggest reason revolver enthusiasts put down autoloader users. A revolver has very very few moving parts, and ejects no casings automatically. You won't experience a jam. The way an autoloader works is that when a round is fired, the slide is kicked back and the spent casing is ejected. The slide hits it's farthest back point, setting the hammer there, then slides forward again, picking the next round off the magazine and loading it. This repeats every trigger pull until the magazine is empty and the slide then stays back at it's farthest back point until you reload it. Sometimes the spent casing isn't ejected cleanly, and the slide gets stuck on it. You then cannot fire until you dislodge the casing, and probably then have to rack the slide again. However, this can be avoided by not buying a cheap foreign handgun, and buy buying quality ammunition. I think American Rifleman stated the EMP I mentioned at the top fired something like 5,000 (I think it was more, but I'll be conservative) rounds in a safety test and had two jams, one being the fault of the shooter, not the firearm. That means you can expect to experience a jam .02% of the time. Cheaper and older firearms are not as reliable, but that doesn't mean a reliable autoloader can't be found. However, many revolver users don't want that risk.
4. Duds. If you happen to fire a dud in an autoloader, you have to manually rack the slide to eject before firing again. In a revolver you just pull the trigger again.
5. Grips. Now, this doesn't apply to all autoloaders, but it does apply to anything built on the original M1911 frame (I know specifically that Glocks don't follow the same frame pattern). But basically, the M1911 frame (both I suggested are this frame) has a very natural point-and-shoot design in terms of the angle of the grip. With revolvers (and other autoloaders, like Glocks), you need to angle your hand back a little bit from what is "natural". With the M1911 design, it points more "true". What this really means is that the M1911 is very ergonomical to hold and fire. Additionally, the XD I suggested has additional ergonomic features.
6. Handedness. This of course does not affect a righty, but if you are a lefty, there is only 1 revolver on the market that is lefty. There are more autoloaders, but that's not all. With an autoloader, the only realy problem is if there aren't ambidextrous safeties. Sometimes you might get hit by a ejected casing as well. With a revolver, loading and reloading when shooting lefty is very awkward, especially when trying to do it quickly.

Now, weighing all of those factors, I personally will take the autoloader every time. There's a reason that almost all police forces and military forces have upgraded to autoloaders over the years instead of sticking with revolvers, at least in my opinion.

Also, get jacketed hollow point ammunition (JHP). It'll help put your target down easier. This is especially important for you since you'll most likely be using a smaller caliber round.

Also, be warned that if you cant handle a .40S&W or .45 GAP, you probably also won't be able to handle any +P or Magnum loads.

To conclude, I'd highly recommend the Springfield XD Compact in .45 GAP. If you can't handle that kick, or the firearm is too big for your hands, I'd next scale down to the .40S&W in the Springfield XD Subcompact. If that is still too much, I'd scale down again to the 9mm version. If you have trouble with that, I'd recommend strengthening your hands, wrists, and forearms rather than getting a smaller caliber.

****UPDATE****
I wanted to respond to a couple themes I saw in here, and offer an opinion (my own).

First, I saw mention that autoloaders are too complicated for a high pressure situation. Again, I'll point to the fact that the military uses autoloaders. High pressure situations for those guys? The thing to remember is training. If you don't train to shoot with any firearm, you will not be very accurate with it. You want to train yourself well if you intend to use your firearm for self-defense. If you train yourself well enough, muscle memory takes over, and you do what your body has practiced before. Can you avoid some of the hassle with a revolver? Sure. But I think the requisitie amount of practice to feel confident in your ability to use the firearm in the first place without thinking will also train you to operate autoloader without a problem. That being said, there are DA autoloaders, and DA/SA autoloaders that are just as friendly as a revolver in this matter.

Another theme is the stopping power of certain calibers. I'll deal with the opinions on a .22 being powerful enough.

Any firearm can kill a person. A airgun can kill a person. However, a .22 is not going to hit your target with as much force, won't do as much physical damage. A very well placed shot will do the trick. And the mere sight of a firearm will be enough to turn some attackers. However, it won't stop all attackers, and I wouldn't want to recommend something that won't stop all attackers, especially not to a woman her size.

A special note to the guy who said to put a laser sight and a flashlight on your .22 and then go for head shots. First, you can put that stuff on bigger caliber handguns as well. Second, I'm not in the business of recommending poor shooting tactics. You aim for center of mass, i.e. the chest. Sounds like you've played a few too many games of Halo.

Now, for the crowd that says you don't need a .45 (especially the guy who said you only need it in the combat zone). Here's my take. Yes, you can drop a person with a .32, .38 special, and so forth if you use the right ammunition. Or, you could use a 9mm with jacketed rounds and shoot an old man several times at close range and not kill him (Pope John Paul II). The reason for this is the kind of wound you do. I recommend JHP rounds no matter what caliber you use. However, it's going to make a smaller caliber round better just the same as it will a larger caliber round. This in my mind, goes back on my statement about the site of a .22 turning some attackers, but not all. A smaller caliber round will stop a person, but it won't stop every person. As was stated, a .45 ACP is going to put anyone down, because the entry wound is so big. I'd rather carry too much firepower than HOPE that I have enough in a moment of life or death.

That being said, we do have to consider this shooter's size. That's why I still recommended smaller calibers to her. I also recommended a compact that she could try .45 GAP with. There's no sense in her not at least considering a larger caliber, and only going down if she has to.

A few folks have stated that the best handgun for defense is the one on hand, as a defense of smaller calibers. This is true to a degree. However, if you buy a better man stopper, then that is the gun that will be on hand. Obviously if she can't handle something big, it won't help her, but there's no sense in going too small either.

Finally, something I forgot to mention, is that the Springfield XD has won American Rifleman's handgun of the year twice in the last 5 years, and the Springfield EMP, in it's first time on the market, was named handgun of the year this year. Both are very high quality weapons. That is why I mentioned those two (plus the safety features of the XD). There are plenty of other compacts on the market though.

I myself am looking into getting a Ruger P345 in .45 ACP for myself. The only thing it's missing, for what I want in a handgun, is the grip safety. I was really considering the regular XD chambered id .45 ACP, but it is made in Croatia and I prefer to buy firearms that are made in the USA.

Answer 2

The .22 as a defensive weapon should only be a last resort, weapon of opportunity. You are on the right track looking at the .380 and the .38 Special.

The .380, in very small, light handguns can be punishing (but not impossible) for small hands. My wife has a Beretta .380 Model 84 w/double stack magazine which is heavy enough and wide enough at the grip to damp the recoil. Unfortunately, that is a pricey gun.

So, I recommend any of the .357/.38 Specials (.357 Mag. will also shoot .38s) from S & W, Ruger or Taurus. Find the one that fits your hand right. The S & W 'J' frame in .38 Special should serve you well if you just don't care for a heavier .357 Magnum revolver.

Consider also the more dimunative Beretta Tomcat .32 acp in blue, stainless or titanium. The prices for this one start at around three hundred depending on the finish. Now, many frown on anything smaller than a .44 Magnum, but realistically, the best handgun is the one that is handy when you need it. In actuality, the better .32 acp defensive rounds from Fiocchi, or the Silvertip, Gold Dot or Hydra Shok are comprable to the non plus + .38s and .380 ball ammo.

Good luck, Miss to you n your boyfriend.

H

Answer 3

Bound's hubby here:

This is from the perspective of a homeowner that lives in a state where you must exhaust all avenues of retreat before you employ deadly force.

First, I would strongly suggest installing an alarm on your house, and use it as an early warning system. This may give you a minute or so warning of an intrusion.

I would not recommend a handgun if you're looking for household defense... especially if the gun will be used only for defense. I would suggest getting a short barreled .20 guage pump action shotgun with a youth stock. I would recommend a Remington Model 870 Youth Model with deer barrel in .20 guage. This type of shotgun could be purchased for as little as $300 at your local chain sporting goods store (Express Model).

If your heart is set on a handgun, I think you would be best served by a Smith & Wesson Chief's Special with a 3" barrel either a Model 36 (blued) or a Model 60 (stainless steel). (x) These revolvers will sell somewhere in the neighborhood of $600 new. The 3" barrel provides a major benefit because they wear adjustable sights which are easier to sight with and will increase your success rate when practicing on targets. I would recommend a revolver over a semi-automatic for three reasons. First, revolvers, in the hands on an inexperienced shooter, are safer. Second, revolvers are easier and safer to load and unload without the chance of an accidental discharge. Third, in a defensive situation revolvers are simple to use. No levers to push or disengage. With a revolver you pick it up, point it, and squeeze the trigger.

Footnote: You can reload a revolver, with practice, almost as fast as a semi-automatic if you practice using speedloaders.

Good luck and may you never have to use a handgun defensively.

Answer 4

Unless you and your boyfriend are gunny folks, you need something that is simple to operate, and simple to shoot.

That means you need a revolver. Revolvers do not require retracting a slide, something my 6'0" wife has trouble doing. And you don't have to remember whether or not you took the safety off. With a double-action revolver, all you need to do it point, align the sights, and squeeze the trigger.

Considering your size, I'd suggest you look into an Smith & Wesson LadySmith Model 60, or Model 65. If possible get the 3" barrels. They are a good compromise between adequate sight plane, and having a short handy barrel that a burglar would have trouble grabbing.

I know they have some cutesy touches, but they also have some touches that make them more user--friendly for ladies and their more petite hands.

Whether you get the .38 Spl or the .357 Magnum, I suggest you use .38 Spl loads, at least until you've practiced enough to be comfortable with the heavier loads.

If you can afford it, get a .22 revolver as well as the .38 Spl. It is much cheaper to shoot, and the more you shoot, the better shot you will become. A good .22 and $10.00 worth of ammo can make for a fun afternoon at the range with your boyfriend. If you can buy only one, get the .38.

Answer 5

First of all, you have to take everything you hear about stopping power with a grain of salt. The truth is that a .22 will kill a person and you are not in a combat zone. If people see you with a gun, or you shoot at someone they will most likely run, regardless of what type of gun it is. That said, I got my wife, (5'2" 110lbs) a 9mm. She can handle the recoil without any problems. I also got her an auto loader not a revolver. Auto loaders are generally lighter and more natural to point and shoot. She also has a 12 round magazine instead of a 6 round cylinder. I went with the H&K USP compact. The frame of the gun is fairly small and fits her hand very well. She can easily opperate the slide release and safety without adjusting her grip. To those who say a revolver is easier to use, I say, its only pulling a trigger. The guns should be loaded and ready to rock. I would go to the shop and handle a few H&K's they are very reliable and very accurate. You won't be disappointed.

Answer 6

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Answer 7

A revolver in 38. special would be your best bet I'd say since you are as small as you are a revolver is very reliable,accurate and the 38. special has the power too stop but not the big kick of a a bigger gun like a 357. magnum ..... and if you didn't exactly want the perpetrator dead then do not go with the 357. it is a killer evan on some big game animals ...... The 38. is a great beginner gun for all people ..... because if you can't handle the gun your shooting and hit what your aiming at it doesn't matter how big the caliber is your shooting. check into Smith&Wesson,Colt,Taurus,or Ruger. .... Sorry but I don't know much about Kel-tech.
P.s that DJ guy knows what he is talking about don't go anything lighter caliber then a 38. and hollow point bullets are best for stoping people. and a darenger only fires 2 shots so don't go there because there also hard to reload.

Answer 8

I think you should probably begin with a .38 Special revolver. It has some power without the fierce recoil of more powerful calibers. Semi-automatics are more complex. After you have practiced a while, you might get one. I like Smith & Wesson revolvers. For carrying concealed, the S&W "Bodyguard" has an integral hammer shroud to prevent snagging on clothing. Just to keep in the home, you can buy a bigger model. It depends upon the size of your hands. My lover Miyuki from Japan is small with small hands, so she cannot grip properly my bigger handguns. She uses my S&W "Bodyguard" mentioned and my Walther "PPK" .380 ACP. It is better than the Kel-Tec you mentioned, but it is costlier. If you can grip it, the S&W "M-686' in .357 Magnum is great. You can use .38 Specials in it and work up to Magnums. It is too big for Miyuki's hand, but try it at a gunstore

Answer 9

.38 special REVOLVER.

Stainless Steel is preferable (much less care involved)

Loaded with +P JHP ammo.

Brands to buy are S&W, Taurus, Colt and Ruger.

Do not consider a .22 caliber a defense gun. You want to STOP an intruder that is intent on doing you harm....a .22 WILL NOT STOP A BAD GUY.

This is what you need. A revolver has no removable parts, no slide, no levers, no saftey controls, etc. Point and Click!

Answer 10

The bottom line is you need to purchase what you are comfortable with. If you want a very good home defense gun, a shotgun is best.

If you must have a handgun, then my recommendation would be a revolver due to the simplicity of its operation. They are easier to clean and easier to learn from. You can clearly see when one is loaded.

Semi-autos take much more time to learn how to operate, and you MUST extensively test the rounds you will keep in the gun to make sure there are no failures that would cause the gun to jam. You must also learn what to do if the gun jams. If you don't have the time to commit to learning all the ins and outs of a semi-auto, do not get one.

As far as the caliber goes, a gun in hand is better than no gun. Period. Try the .38 revolver. If it is too much, look into a .22 magnum. That round is the fastest traveling handgun round and hits with almost as much force as a 9mm, and is easier to handle. Not generally thought of as a defense cartridge, for its size it is formidable. From a handgun it will generate over a 42% one shot stop ratio on human targets (according to Marshall and Sanow). From a rifle, of which many models are available, it develops muzzle energy equal to that of the subsonic 9mm Luger loadings. The new 5.7 x 28 mm SS196SR round chambered in the FN P90 personal defense weapon produces very similar ballistics to the .22 WMR rifle, firing a 40 grain bullet at 1800 f/s.

However, I know plenty of women that have no problem with higher caliber handguns. It all comes down to how often you practice.

Crimson Trace also makes an excellent grip that fires a laser out, showing you where you're aiming. Very good in stressful situations.

Here's some good revolver links:
http://www.charterfirearms.com
http://www.smith-wesson.com
http://www.taurususa.com

And the grips:
http://www.crimsontrace.com

Good luck in your search.

Answer 11

i would not get a .22, it is to small of a bullet and with a beginner the bang would be more of a scare to an intruder. A .38 is a lot louder and bigger. A good handgun would be that s&w J frame