When you replaced the cable you didn't readjust the derailleur. Yes, you must do this when you replace a shifter cable.
You really should do the following with the bike in a workstand.
Put the chain in the big chairing/smallest cog combination.
Loosen the cable binder nut, pull the cable tight, then retighten the nut. There should be no slack in the cable at this point.
Shift the bike from the smallest cog to the second smallest cog. If it does not quite make it, or grinds after, shift back to the smallest cog, then turn the barrel adjuster on the derailluer 1/4 turn _out_, then try the shift again. Repeat the above steps until the last two positions shift up and down with no hesitation or grinding.
Next, work your way up the cogs, one click should result in one shift as you know. If there is any grinding after a shift, retweak the barrel adjuster on the derailleur until it stops., then go back to the smallest cog and make sure the shifting from position 1 to position 2 is still crisp.
When you get satisfactory shifting for the lower six cogs in the big ring, Shift to the small chainring/biggest cog combination. Shift back and forth between the biggest cog and the second biggest cog, adjusting the barrel adjuster slightly until the shifting is smooth.
Watch out for the derailleur stop screws. If they are set to close, you won't be able to get to the cogs at the ends, and if set too loose, you could over shift and drop the chain into the spokes or get it jammed between the dropout and the small cog. I'm guessing that if the shifitng worked before the cable replacement, this won't be an issue.
On older systems like this, it is sometimes necessary to allow a little grinding on some gears in order the get the shifting to work across the range. Slight grinding is OK as long as you keep the chain clean and it doesn't result in spontaneous shifting.
Remember that Shimano 8 speed cassettes are NOT compatible with campy 8 speed shifting systems. You will never get them to shift right. If you have a shimano compatible cassette, you will need to either get a campy cassette, or buy a spacer kit from Wheels Manufacturing that converts shimano spacing to campy.
2007-05-02 08:34:29
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answer #1
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answered by Anonymous
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This happens for one of two reasons; Either the cut of the gears, caused by continual abuse - dragging gears when engaging (grinding them when engaging, especially if not using clutch or if using the clutch you beat the syncro's) OR Stick and or linkages are out of adjustment and or worn, and when engaging gears the stick is not placing the respective gear cog fully into mesh. Either of these problems will eventually destroy the gearbox. It is in fact a false economy to assume that it is still working and only slowly getting worse. IT WILL FAIL, and probably at the worst possible time. Cost to rebuild the box now will be far less than the cost in a month or so or when it fails completely.
2016-05-18 23:24:49
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answer #2
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answered by ? 3
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I suspect that the cable tension is not properly adjusted. To adjust the deraileur, adding tension makes the trip up to cassette faster. Slacking on it makes it go down easier. Try to put it on a gear in the middle of the cog and adjust it so the chain is firmly on the gear.
2007-05-02 08:21:32
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answer #3
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answered by Jay P 7
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As well as trying the cable tension adjusters did you give the new cable a good stretch/pull once you had fitted it to take out as much slack as possible that might creep in as the cables bed in.
2007-05-02 07:36:29
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answer #4
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answered by 203 7
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there are usually screws on the deraillier, have a tinker and these should help allign your gear selection.
2007-05-02 07:28:43
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answer #5
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answered by Icarus 6
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when you replace your cables they will stretch after some initial break in period, they then need to be re-tightened and should be ok afterwards
2007-05-03 12:39:28
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answer #6
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answered by chris 2
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