i have a 1992 dodge spirit and ive been having all kinds of problems with it. it will start but idles very rough.. when i put it in gear it bucks and jumps. it will drive down the road but has no power what so ever. when i brake for a turn or a light... it usually dies...
ive changed the air filter, gas filter, new wires, plugs, cap, rotor, and hall effect switch and no changes. also changed the coolant temperature sensor.
now when i disconnect the map sensor the car will die and not start.. hook it up and it starts. when i disconnect the o2 sensor, there is no change in anything. im at about 200.00 in investing parts in this car that has yet to show improvement.
my final conclusions on this are.. a plugged converter, map sensor, o2 sensor, car has jumped time, or lost compression... any ideas or suggestions?
thanks in advance dave..
2007-04-22 13:17:21 · 7 answers · asked by Anonymous in Cars & Transportation ➔ Maintenance & Repairs
change the vacum line
2007-04-22 13:28:20 · answer #1 · answered by aaronzhunt 2 · 0⤊ 0⤋
You have been looking in quite a few places, but you missed one key area...one of the most common reasons for poor idle and low speed performance is vacuum leaks.
Look all around the engine compartment and see if there is a small rubber hose that is brittle, split or broken off. There are quite a few, so look closely.
Also check the bigger rubber hose going to the vacuum booster behind the brake master cylinder.
Hope you find what's wrong...
Oh yes, if the timing belt/chain jumps one tooth, it will start hard and have little power too...but it won't smooth out at higher speeds...
2007-04-22 13:29:00 · answer #2 · answered by Michael B 6 · 0⤊ 0⤋
i own a repair shop and id check all the things you just mentioned on it also run a compression check on it also,see what it is for every cylinder,and make sure none of them vary no more than 5 pounds per cylinder,its possible this one has a bad head on it,that was a popular thing with the 2.5 engines,i have replaced a bunch of those before,if the compression checks ok on it ,you could be right ,it might be the converter on it going bad,but these will usually get really hot when there getting clogged up,if your luck runs like mine has been doing lately it will wind up being something really simple,good luck i hope this helps.
2007-04-22 13:30:36 · answer #3 · answered by dodge man 7 · 0⤊ 0⤋
I do not know what year they changed the design but some of those engines had a rubber spacer under the carb/TBI unit. Heat and fuel caused the inside of that part to deteriorate and the engine started ingesting chunks of rubber causing the symptoms you stated. Check around the base of the carb/TBI unit- if it is soft like rubber check about getting a metal replacement unit.
2007-04-22 13:27:33 · answer #4 · answered by Ron G 5 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Disconnect the vaccum line to the EGR and plug it with a screw. If the subject is going away, bypass away it that way. EGR valves are infamous for having dried out, leaky vaccum diaphrams because of the fact the unleaded gas has a tendency to launch fumes that sell dry-rot. If the subject persists, verify the codes by making use of shorting pins a million and a couple of of the diagnostic get admission to plug and turning the main important on. The "verify engine" easy will flash the codes.
2016-10-03 10:13:08 · answer #5 · answered by ? 4 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Check for a vacume leak that is probally your problem
2007-04-22 13:27:24 · answer #6 · answered by Michael D 2 · 0⤊ 0⤋
the throttle body needs to be cleaned
2007-04-22 13:27:20 · answer #7 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋