Is it unethical to use a spray polycrylic protective finish on an acrylic painting that you plan on selling?

Question

Does the protective coating "have to be" one from an art store, that says for Acrylic Paintings? Isn't a non yellowing form of protectant sealer from a home improvement store just as good? I just don't see shelling out extra cash just because something has a name brand label on it. It's not like my pieces are family heirlooms I just want something to protect them and give them a nice shine.

Answer 1

Artists acrylic paints have been developed and manufactured to last a lifetime and so far they have proven themselves to hold up well over time. Acrylic artist paints have been on the open market for fifty some years now and the earliest paintings are holding up as well over time as oil paints.

On the other hand, house paints, including poly clear coats, are never designed to last any lifetime. Commercial products, from cars to appliances to stereos, are designed to, and expected to, break down within a certain amount of years. They break down and have to be replaced or repaired and this process is built into the product. They have to break down or most businesses would go out of business.

The same goes for house paints, including clear coat acrylic paints and varnishes. These clear coat house paints will fade and yellow and crack within the ten to fifteen year time frame that other regular house paints do. The manufacturers of these paints know this and do this on purpose. If they sold house paints that never faded or never needed painted over the paint companies would soon goes out of business because most people would quit buying their products after they've applied the lifetime house paints that didn't need re-painting.

And this is also why artists paints (including clear coat artist sprays) are so much more expensive, per ounce and per volume, than other paints. They're expensive because you're buying paints that are designed to last hundreds of years.

The old saying that 'you get what you pay for' holds true when it comes to paints.

Answer 2

Shinny varnishes on acrylics are fine but can leave an unwanted glare or haze. These are the steps to have the best look. FIRST: Use Palomar medium high gloss and brush on the painting. DO NOT go back and forth but follow the brush strokes of the painting. this will keep it from looking streaked. Do not go over the area too many times particularly in dark spots as this can go cloudy. Before you start make sure the picture is flat and make sure you leave no puddles . After 3 hours give a second coat. This may be all the shine you need and there will be no glare like with spray varnishes.
If you still want it shinier, wait 3 days. Then use liquitex varnish for oil and acrylic paintings and brush on in the same manner one coat. The brush will have to be cleaned with turpentine,so don't use a brush you love too much. this will give you a professional shine. the reason you put the medium on first is that will seal the surface so if necessary the top varnish could be removed and you would not harm the picture underneath.
I have been selling for years and find two to three coats of the Palomar medium is all that you need.

Answer 3

Polycrylic Protective Finish

Answer 4

Polycrylic Spray

Answer 5

While I agree about using an artist-quality clear coat, you do not ALWAYS have to shell out more. I have been through my BFA and starting my MFA soon, with time off in between to make my own work. Some tips I picked up from teachers who worked professionally as well:

when using pastels, you can use Aquanet hair spray instead of the expensive sealant. It has always worked for me! =) Test out on a sample card for yourself though, just to be sure.

Instead of stupidly expensive gesso, I go to hardware stores and buy white primer. Make sure to get the kind that will not have a slick surface when done, you want something with some "tooth." Kilz did not work for me, if I remember correctly.
None of my paintings have yellowed yet, nor have I been informed of any cracking or yellowing by owners.

I use walnut oil in place of Liquin when oil painting. It allows it to dry quickly, but not SO fast, and also does not crack with time like excessive use of Liquin can.

There are other tips out there. Network online or in your community with other artists; keep in mind that those who work for art stores or sell art supplies will not be as aware of other possibilities, and also want to see their own business succeed! (Good luck!)

Answer 6

Clear polyurethane coating ought to be fine, but it's better to get it at an art supply because the people who developed the product knew what special challenges they need to face in dealing with fine art rather than home improvement.

It's not that much more expensive and it lasts a while.