I'm trying to create a mobile sound system which will be pulled on a trailer behind a bike. It will be powered by a deep cycle battery and the input will be from an iPod. I'm using a Pyle marine amp. I've hooked up the positive connector on the amp to the positive terminal on the battery through a power switch and a fuse relay. I've hooked up the remote connector on the amp to the negative terminal on the battery and I've connected a ground wire to the frame of the trailer. I'm getting no power to the amp. The battery is fully charged, the fuses and switch are all good but still no power. It appears the problem might have to do with the remote turn on feature in the amp so I need to figure out a way to bypass the remote turn on to get the amp to power up. Any ideas how I might do this?
2007-04-13 23:59:00 · 7 answers · asked by amolephoto 2 in Cars & Transportation ➔ Car Audio
Yeah like 1000man has said, you need to connect the remote wire to positive as well, and because a trailer has no ground like a car does, you will need to connect the negative of the amp to the negative on the battery, then it should all be good
2007-04-14 00:21:43 · answer #1 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
Hook it up and see if it works. "Deep cycle" means it's kinda built to tolerate being discharged to nearly dead. No lead/acid battery really benefits from that kind of behavior. They all create sulfates that clog the battery plates as they discharge. But, if you're going to power a trolling motor, "deep cycle" is what you want 'cause you're bound to fish until the motor won't run any more. Automatic chargers sometimes won't even kick in to charge if the battery is lower than it's built to detect and manage. In other words, you know the battery is extremely low, you know your charger is good, yet if it won't start the charging process, then it's just not built to deliver a charge when the battery voltage is really low. If that happens and if you want to be able to use your 1 amp charger, then first hook it to a "manual" type charger. Or, hook it to your car using jumper cables. Run the engine for about 15 minutes. Then hook your 1 amp automatic to it and see if the little automatic will then take over. People have the same problem with all batteries if the charge gets really low. Some automatics won't start a charge cycle in that case. There are some Shumacher's that will do it. They are more toward the top of the line of the truly automatics. There are also battery chargers that have both manual and automatic settings. So: 1. Hook it up and see what happens. Can't hurt. If it starts the charge cycle, let it run. However, 1 amp isn't much. It might not even be enough to overcome the internal resistance of your battery in such a state of discharge. 2. Hook your battery to your car with jumper cables (after starting your engine.) Let the engine run 15 minutes. Then, see if your 1 amp charger will do take over from there.
2016-05-19 22:13:23 · answer #2 · answered by ? 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋
As has been noted, the remote input requires 12V +. You can simply put a jumper wire between the amplifier's positive terminal and remote terminal; then the main switch at the battery will control the amp. Also, you can ground the amp to the frame of the trailer, but only if you also make a connection between the negative battery terminal and the frame. As in a vehicle, the chassis is only considered "ground" because it has a connection to the negative terminal.
2007-04-14 00:27:35 · answer #3 · answered by KaeZoo 7 · 1⤊ 0⤋
Agreed that the remote wire usually has to go to the positive terminal. Check the installation manual and remember to use fuses on everything.
Also, keep in mind that while a deep cycle battery is a good source, that amplifiers draw a considerable amount of power, especially "surge" current when dealing with lots of bass and subwoofers. The low voltage caused during these times could potentially cause your amplifier to shut down after a while due to low voltage. I would suggest adding a digital voltmeter to the setup so you can monitor the voltage "real time".
2007-04-14 02:09:13 · answer #4 · answered by Jason 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋
wow....first of all, why would you put a switch on your battery power wire? you should be using 4 guage wire for that. Second, for the remote wire, run it from the REM terminal on the amp, to the +12 terminal on the amp, with a switch in between the wire somewhere so you can turn it on and off. you never hook up the remote to the - terminal of a battery, even in a car man...
2007-04-14 02:31:44 · answer #5 · answered by yitzac1990 3 · 0⤊ 1⤋
correct me if im wrong but, the reason u can connect a variety of different electrical devices on a car is because a car has an alternator, thats y its battery does not go down while it is running, different story if its turned off.... now lets go bak to ur predicament, looking past all ur wiring errors the other dudes pointed out, if you ar going to run your amp from the amp alone, it will only last so much time before the battery goes out like the other guy pointed out... it is more complicated than wat u think mayn get someone who can actually go up there to help you out,
2007-04-14 05:02:57 · answer #6 · answered by rey d 1 · 0⤊ 0⤋
No you don't. the remote goes to positive to turn the amp on, open or neg to turn it off.
2007-04-14 00:15:22 · answer #7 · answered by 1000 Man Embassy 5 · 0⤊ 0⤋