Tomatoes started in sterile medium should be transplated into sterile potting soil about when they reach 1 1/2 inches in height.
You will want to place that plant near the bottom of the cup your are using. A good cup is an "icecream" flat bottom cup about 3 inch across. As that plant grows, add more potting soil so that a root structure develops the entire height of the cup.
The technique of placing the seedling right near the bottom and adding potting soil as it grows will increase those roots and greatly increase your yields once planted.
For early tomatoes, one can start plants in mid January and use this technique to develope roots in gallon containers in which the root structure is the entire length of the gallon container. These tomatoes, once planted into the ground, will immediately blossom and bear fruit in a few weeks and their yields will be substantially higher than tomatoes planted without such root structure.
2007-04-12 04:39:05
·
answer #1
·
answered by James M 6
·
1⤊
0⤋
Now this one is easy, I have grown Money Makers and other variety's so I know what I am talking about. Once two leaves are established, ie when plant is about 6 inches high then that's the time to transplant them. John Innings No 2 potting compost mixed with an equal amount of Irish Peat. when the first truss appears start feeding with Tomartorite or other feed, I have always found that tomatorite is very good. Beef tomatoes take a little more looking after. once a truss has developed remove the lower leaves from the plant so that all the goodness goes into the fruit and not the leaves. Do not allow more than 4 or 5 trusses to a plant and cut off excess leaves . DO NOT BRAKE THEM OFF as this can damage the stem and infection can result. I hope this has been of some help.
2007-04-12 04:45:15
·
answer #2
·
answered by coofooman 5
·
0⤊
0⤋
I'm growing them in Central Texas and they've been outside for more than two months now. I'll be harvesting in a few weeks for the first cherry varieties.
I start mine in small pots in late winter and then transplant them into larger pots outside after the last likely freeze. Even if you intend to put them into the ground, this would be a good intermediate stage. It has the advantage of still being able to pull them in when there is an unexpected cold snap. I had to do that last week during that record cold front.
2007-04-12 04:55:11
·
answer #3
·
answered by Cblynn 1
·
0⤊
0⤋
If you planted them in seed flats, separate them out (carefully!) and transplant them into small pots. You want them to develop as big a root as possible before they go into the garden. This can take place whenever the seedlings are big enough to handle; usually when they're about two inches tall. Make sure the soil is damp before you transplant, then mist them with a sprayer to keep them moist. In a week or two, you can water them with a watering can containing a WEAK fertilizer solution.
They'll be nice and sturdy when you set them out into your veggie garden, which can be done after the last frost date in your area.
2007-04-12 04:50:30
·
answer #4
·
answered by Anonymous
·
0⤊
0⤋
actual. that's how i have been elevating my tomato flora for years now. yet the following is the project: do not start up them too early. All you want is about 5 to six weeks from planting the seed to transplanting contained in the backyard. also, provide them mild (30w cool white fluorescent) for roughly 16 hours an afternoon, and make positive the planting blend is a sterile medium (like couple of minutes blend or Fafard).
2016-12-03 21:54:02
·
answer #5
·
answered by Anonymous
·
0⤊
0⤋
After the roots have been bedded in the pot. Plant a seed per pot and when you see the bottom of the pot, the holes should have white roots in it, thats the best time to transplant them. Keep them in constant temperature and avoid watering for 24 hours after transplant.
2007-04-12 04:37:32
·
answer #6
·
answered by Anonymous
·
0⤊
0⤋
After all danger of frost is past. Make sure it's going to stay warm at night before you plant them out. You also need to harden them off. That means to put them outside for a short period of time each day that it's above 50 degrees. Start with 30 min for a couple days and gradually increase the amount time each day for at least a couple of weeks. If it gets hot fast, make sure they have some shade or they will fry. If you try to plant them outside straight out of the house they will get shocked and probably won't survive.Also make sure they are not bone dry when you put them out.
2007-04-12 04:44:56
·
answer #7
·
answered by Anonymous
·
0⤊
0⤋
After 14 days, move them outside to a sheltered spot for 7 days. Then transplant them to beds. 3-4" apart, if unstaked. 2.5" apart if staked or caged. Watch out for pests!.
2007-04-12 04:39:27
·
answer #8
·
answered by dealonbracelets 1
·
0⤊
0⤋
When the ground is warming up and no threat of frost is gone. After they have been growing a bit, pinch the tops off the tomatoes to make them grow bushy and not straggly.
2007-04-12 04:41:55
·
answer #9
·
answered by idaho_native57 3
·
0⤊
0⤋
After it is past the danger of frost for your area & the plant is at the least 4" tall. Make sure they are harden off before you leave them out side & plant 80% of the plant in the ground.
Good luck.
2007-04-12 04:41:33
·
answer #10
·
answered by kingmt01 3
·
0⤊
0⤋