ok the rpm's go low at stop's.i had a 1600 watt amp hooked up to a L7 12 in. solo kicker with a 1.5 farad capacitor.one day i was in oakland and the car batt died.i bought a new one installed the batt and still their was power loss.i read that the alternator keeps the battery charged.so maybe the amp drained the alternator's power.i guess.i am going to put another cap to create 3 farad's which i hope will stop this problem from happening again.
2007-04-03 16:42:20 · 5 answers · asked by Nathann S 2 in Cars & Transportation ➔ Car Audio
Javin M is so full of....well crap. He doesn't have the electrical background to know what a capacitor is let alone what it does. I know this because he and I have had a little chat on the matter and he has trouble backing up his claims with fact, he relies strictly on hearsay.
I know a cap can be beneficial as I'm running one and I measured a definite change in my electrical systems response curve to big bass hits with an oscilloscope.
If your total system power is more than 1000 watts RMS you will need to:
1. Upgrade the alternator to a high output alternator
2. Upgrade to a heavy duty deep cycle battery
3. Upgrade the "Big 3" - that is to replace the power wire between the battery and alternator and the ground strap.
Failure to do this will result in you replacing them anyway as the alternator will eventually fail.
Here is a guide that will calculate what size alternator and power wires you need http://www.datafilehost.com/download.php?file=6d26c621
You'll need Microsft Excel to use it.
See my site for more info http://spkrbox1.spaces.live.com
2007-04-04 02:24:52 · answer #1 · answered by Anonymous · 1⤊ 0⤋
The problem may actually be the cap.
Capacitors are a waste of money. They only put strain on the alt. as it is just another accessory it has to charge. Capacitors take 5 times longer to REcharge than it takes to DIScharge (when bass hits). Capacitors are only good for power fluctuations of -up to- .01 volts, which in the car audio world, is meaningless. You could have 5 or even 500,000 farads and none of which will do you any good.
I am assuming your problems didn't get bad until you installed the first cap. I bet.
Don't waste your money. If you buy another cap, your alternator is next to go.
What you need to do is the Big3 Upgrade.
Upgrade your (power -charge- wire from alt. to batt. +, ground from batt. - to cars frame(sand away any paint to ensure a solid connection), and lastly, ground wire from frame to engine block) all in 4g or larger wire.
This will allow instantaneous current to reach your battery, where it is then used. Dimming headlights and voltage drops (which kill amps) will be a thing of the past.
If dimming headlight still occur, which shouldn't, you'll need to upgrade your alt. to a high output one.
Good Luck!
2007-04-03 21:02:08 · answer #2 · answered by ohm 6 · 0⤊ 2⤋
with that lots you are able to desire to truly evaluate a secondary gel deep cycle battery, Optima Yellow precise easily. and get a battery isolator so the vehicle electronics heavily isn't affected, and you will no longer could desire to enhance the alternator OR battery. in any different case, upgrading the alternator will show frustrating, finding one that is. you are able to could desire to goto an automtove electric save and have them rewind it for extra output, 200amp minimum. as for the battery, does not count what you put in, it is going to get pulled on frustrating through the subs and amps..
2016-12-08 17:46:44 · answer #3 · answered by ? 4 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Have the Alt. tested .if bad get a more powerful one if available. like from 75 amp to 120amp
2007-04-03 16:51:58 · answer #4 · answered by Robert F 7 · 0⤊ 1⤋
It may be the wires try and get new ones.
2007-04-03 17:56:22 · answer #5 · answered by Dj Bootleg 2 · 0⤊ 2⤋