Hello! I am going to hotwire my Lincoln cont 1970 car.Battrey to coil.?

Question

I was told that I had to put a reistor between the battrey and the coil so I will not burn out my coil.It is now 12 volts what is the reistor that I need to bring it down to?How many voits do I bring it down to?The last Question is,are you having a good day?Thank you

I have now seen three answers Each has said alot but do I need a reistor?

I am going to put in a balistristor between the battery to the coil,how do I know what kind I need to get a voltage of 9 volts,if I go to auto store?

Answer 1

First I'm curious to know why you need to hot wire it. I owned a 1971 Lincoln and I still have a few Galaxies.

Lincolns of that year all have the basic Ford ignition system.

Your positive battery cable goes straight to the solanoid which should be a 4 pronged solenoid on that year.

Where the positive cable bolts from the battery to the solenoid there is another smaller post with a rubber push on wire. You simply connect a screw driver between the positve bolt on the solenoid to the first screw on top of the solenoid, this will kick the starter. Just make the connection between the 2 screws. Make sure the car is in park before you do this. Also if you have the ignition to the ON position the car will stay running.

Also when you hot wire a car without a key in the ON position the starter stays ingaged until you disconnect the hot wire.

I have owned Fords for years and we have always jumped the starter this way. If the solenoid is loose and has a bad connection the starter won't kick. Make sure its tight on the inner fender.

You can also jump the start from the 2 main posts on the solenoid and bypass the 2 smaller top screws. This will also kick the starter straight from battery to starter. It does spark a bit when you do this but it won't hurt you as long as you don't stand in a puddle. JOKE!

Another reason a Ford Product of that year might not start from inside is because it is not properly in park with a column shifter. Fords from the mid 60's to early 70's had a problem where you would hold the shifter in the park position and then turn the key.

I hope that helped.

Answer 2

The term also refers to an automobile engine component that lowers the supply voltage to the ignition system after the engine has been started. Because cranking the engine causes a very heavy load on the battery, the system voltage can drop quite low during cranking. To allow the engine to start, the ignition system must be designed to operate on this lower voltage. But once cranking is completed, the normal operating voltage is regained; this voltage would overload the ignition system. To avoid this problem, a ballast resistor is inserted in series with the supply voltage feeding the ignition system. Occasionally, this ballast resistor will fail and the classic symptom of this failure is that the engine runs while being cranked (while the resistor is bypassed) but stalls immediately when cranking ceases (and the resistor is reinserted in the circuit).

9 volts is optimal voltage under load.

ADDED:
I'm always having a great day. I'm still alive!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ballast_(electrical)

Answer 3

you can just run a jumper from the battery cable to the small wire the one furthest to the rear.going to the solenoid.
to start the car power up the other wire.
12 volts wont hurt it ..but it will cause the points to burn out twice as fast.

not if this is a temporary fix ..say a week or so..
if you plan to leave it this way ..yes install the resistor

if you unplug the ignition switch and put a jumper wire there the factory resistor will work as it is in the loop

Answer 4

You are not saying what the car is not doing? you shouldn't have to put anything on it get a complete proper tuneup and it should work fine.

Answer 5

No you don`t need it