How do I get crisp sharp photos with my Nikon D80 and 18-70mm lens?

Question

Hello,

At work I use a Nikon D80 camera with a 18-70mm Nikkor lens. Most photos are of people touring through the building, which is low lit. I prefer to use no flash, and on shutter priority, with a speed of 1/125 of a second, and an ISO of at least 1600 or greater.

The photos never look sharp unless the ISO is very high, but then everything looks terribly grainy. If I use the camera's flash, the light is unnatural and I end up with awful shadows.

Is there any advice on how to get crisp photos with little grain? A tripod is not an answer since I am constantly moving. A large flash may not work either since I have to take rapid photos.

Thanks.

Answer 1

As fhotoace put it, you're in a tough situation. I can only add to the advice posted. When you mentioned flash, I'm guessing that you're refering to the built in flash. I know this flash can be over powering, or not effective, and the coverage is less than optimum. However, I've had good luck with hot shoe speedlights, especially if you can use the TTL features.

Adding to fhotoace, I believe you can get better results using bounce flashing; but with hot shoe flashes, like Nikon Speedlights, you can bounce off a card. I don't know if you remember seeing reporters with index cards on their flashes but this is basically a short-range bounce and you don't need to bounce off ceilings or walls. Many Nikon speedlights will have them built in and sometimes have built in diffusers. These are items that reduce the harshness of flashes.

Using the bounce method you should be able to reduce your ISO and have less grainy photos. As for rapid shots, I know Nikon had a speedlight that used to hold a few bursts worth of charge and also still recycled very fast. I was looking at the specs and about 3 seconds is all it takes to recycle now.

Lastly, you mentioned that tripod is not an answer but have you considered a monopod? It's definitely much more help but without being too cumbersome with setting it up. As long as you don't have too much coffee and/or sugar, a monopod can add support which can give you 1/60 easy (I've gone up to half a second on a monopod holding my breath).

Again, this is just an addendum. If anything a flash and monopod can be returned if it doesn't suit you.

Answer 2

Firstly the "large flash" is very very good. You may think the power would blow all the highlights but they are actually very intelligent and not too hard to use. Although it's the dearest I would recommend the SB800 to you. It can have 5 AA batteries in it. I find that with 5 high quality NiMH batteries, I rarely wait for the flash to recycle, it's amazing.

With the SB800, I tend to use programmed auto (lazy), ISO 200 set the white balance to flash mode, and work as close to the subject as I can within reason i.e. using 18-35mm zoom rather than getting up to 70mm. 70mm means the flash needs more power and your depth of field is naturally less (important if there are groups). The less flash power you use, the faster the flash recycles.

Take this approach and I would be surprised if you are unhappy with the results.

Another common technique to overcome that washed out look given by flash is to point the flash head up at 45º and use the inbuilt bounce card, this sends some light to the subject and bounces some off the ceiling to diffuse the light reaching the subject, thus removing that strong shadow look.

The SB800 comes with a diffuser to further help (the SB600 doesn't) although you can't use the bounce card and the diffuser at the same time. Just play around and see what is right for you.

The clever folks who designed the SB800 thought long and hard about what you are trying to do and have done an excellent job of coming up with the product to help you!

Last tip is to buy a gray card and learn how to do a custom white balance. It's easy once you know how and the procedure is in your manual. It makes an amazing difference to photos of skin taken under fluorescent light!

Answer 3

I have just the thing for you that will solve your problem. Email me and I will pass on a program I have. Cant do it here otherwise I may get a smack on the hand :) I specialize in photography under these lighting conditions and even worse and I am unable to use a flash. Quite frankly, it's no harder than taking photographs in broard daylight when you know exactly what you're doing.

http://www.straightshots.co.nz

Answer 4

To add a bit more: Use a hotshoe flash, (either a SB600 or SB800) and a diffuser of some sort. I use the Fong Lightsphere. It helps to control shadows and produce even lighting with less hot spots.

Answer 5

Hi,

sounds like a ISO / shutter "conflict" - on the flash - you should be able to work that out with photoshop :)

here is a review with some suggested ISO/ss pairings -

http://www.cameralabs.com/reviews/NikonD80/page5.shtml

good luck,

J

Answer 6

Default sharpness level on the D80 is set to give pretty unsharp pictures. You could change the setting or sharpen them in the computer.