First things first.. Is the floor concrete or wood?
If it is concrete: Take up the old carpet, pad and tackstrip. Scrape and clean the floor. Check the concrete for any cracks and prepare them with a good crack supression system ( I recommend Protecto Wrap ). After this you are ready to install the ceramic.
If the floor is wood: Follow the above with the added steps of a sturdy cement type backerboard, Wonderboard, HardiBacker or DurRock are just a few name brands. Wood floors need this in order to reduce the flex felt in a wood floor. I have known some installers to nail/screw this down without thinsetting ( tile morter) it down with good results. The correct way is to thinset the board down and then nail/screw it. The reason for this is to bond the board to the floor to reduce movement and thereby reducing cracks in the grout and tiles themselves.
I hope this helps, Good Luck.
2007-03-26 14:23:03
·
answer #1
·
answered by Rick H 1
·
1⤊
0⤋
Please do not install the tile directly on your existing floor (decking). Decking absorbs lots of moisture (from the basement) and is not stable. Use 3/8" subfloor or cementboard or Ditra as an underlayment and then install the porcelain. You will eliminate the risk of cracked tile and crumbling grout joints. Also, what if you need to take up that tile later on? You will be down to the floor joists after removal because the decking will come up. The only time it is ok to install porcelain over your existing floor is if it concrete (and sometimes over existing tile...but it depends on the situation). Hope this helps!
2007-03-27 12:49:22
·
answer #2
·
answered by kalamazooqueen 2
·
0⤊
0⤋
If you have wood flooring then you would need to put down cement (hardy-backer) board, sold in 4 by 8 sheets, about ten dollars a sheet. If you screw it down, make sure to set the screw heads below the surface, you could also liquid nail it down. Beings wood expands and contracts the movement of the floor could cause your tile and grout to crack. When mixing your thin set, there is an elestrameric(sp?) additive that you mix your thin set .(sold in the tile dept). That should do it.
2007-03-26 21:45:12
·
answer #3
·
answered by Cheryl 6
·
0⤊
0⤋
It all depends what type of flooring you have. If it is concrete floors then just wash the concrete and the tile will be fine. Now if the floors are wood you might have a problem because the tile can easily crack so you will need to strengthen the floor.
2007-03-26 21:07:14
·
answer #4
·
answered by Dan 3
·
1⤊
0⤋
Start from the concrete then chose the appropriate mortar to put down and then situate the tiles where you want them. Then after the appropriate set time you use grout to fill in the gaps.
2007-03-26 21:08:39
·
answer #5
·
answered by annmarie_tpg 2
·
0⤊
0⤋
in wet areas we only use Duro-rock ( cement board) 1/2" thick....make sure ur floor joist r on a span on larger than 19.2" on center, standard is 16" and 24"....if on 24" the tile is not warranted.....
seal the joints with compound made for the rock...
lic. gen. contractor
2007-03-26 21:19:49
·
answer #6
·
answered by bigg_dogg44 6
·
2⤊
0⤋
The BEST substrate would be cement board, covered by a separating membrane.
However, plywood will suffice, provided it is nailed down properly and is level.
No prep besides nailing (screwing would be better) the plywood down well.
Any other questions, feel free to email me.
2007-03-26 21:07:04
·
answer #7
·
answered by Skyhawk 5
·
0⤊
0⤋
even if you have 3/4plywood you should still use 1/2 " durarock or silimar product for a lasting-no problem floor
2007-03-26 21:12:10
·
answer #8
·
answered by offshore18 2
·
2⤊
0⤋
concrete
or wonder board over wood subfloors
2007-03-26 21:08:52
·
answer #9
·
answered by Anonymous
·
2⤊
0⤋