How can I improve my climbing?

Question

Hi,
I have started rock climbing 5 years ago. After a year stopped, I decided to star climbing again.

My problem: When I get to the gym, I manage to do a couple of 5.11 routes. After that, my performance degrades and an hour later I can't finish some 5.9s...

What can I do to increase my strength so I can still do the 5.11s after two hours of climbing in the gym?
I want to be comfortable enough to lead climb overhanging 5.10s by the end of the day.

I go the the gym once a week, but I'm planning to go more often. Is there any non-climbing exercise that could help?

Thank you,
Marcos

Answer 1

I have not yet achieved your level, but I do have experience w. getting flabby and struggling to get back into shape. As mentioned by others, the best exercise is more climbing. Try to get in more than 1/week. But make sure to give your muscles at least a days rest after a strenuous session. Give it some time. Take it from someone who's probably much older, your muscles are going to take longer to return to the form they once were than they might have 5 years ago.

Also as someone else mentioned, your technique is likely to have also suffered. Get feedback from climbers as strong or stronger. Watch others attacking the some route to see where they might be conserving energy that you waste.

Also, the bouldering wall is a good place to get advice on technique as you're lower down and everyone can see what's going on.

But above all be patient and don't get discouraged. Getting back to where you were will take time.

Answer 2

That is always a problem, how to best train for climbing by non-climbing means? Few of us are fortunate enough to live close to excellent rock, so what do we do? 5.11s does seem to be the dividing line between trained climbers and merely sports-talented people, who usually quickly rise up to 5.9s and even 5.10s with relatively little practice. As with any sports, the best training is whatever the sport is: For running, run, for skiing, ski, and for serious climbing, you must climb. If you're serious about those 5.11s and up, you need to have your own personal home climbing wall so that you can work on it many times a week. Build it out of plywood screwed to a wood frame and buy handholds from rock supply houses. Or improvise with other "walls" that you can find around the house or local places, like this fake rock wall I know of at a local cemetery. There could be other ways to train, but this is really the best way.

Answer 3

I trained my cousins like this:
I'd say that either you could find a really steap hill or a cliff, like I have, and just climb it try using harder ways to climb it like wearing a heavy backpack or tie weights to your legs/arms. another thing you want to do is a lot of running and pull ups to keep you strong for the climb. you could get a climbing wall and practice a lot on it I bet you will find you get a lot sharper and stronger since your break well, I cant think of much else.

Answer 4

You can definitely improve your climbing by climbing more and more and more . Just keep practising your climbing with what you have and where you go now and you will defiantly improve! PRACTISE MAKES PERFECT YA KNOW!

Answer 5

When you are rusty you dont see things well, miss holds and misuse them, and it makes you burn fast. More climbing will get you sharp again. As far as strength, climb climb climb.

Answer 6

Practice.

Miketyson26

Answer 7

some xercise you could do is jogging to strech your thigh mussel. also before and after hat jum around and just relax

Answer 8

I believe it's a motivation problem...
Go climb a real cliff and you'll get better...or else. ;)