how to measure to cut golf irons to proper length?

Answer 1

hire someone nothing can **** a club up more then cutting it the wrong length

Answer 2

cut them off at your groin the clubs i mean

Answer 3

Material needed to start assembly: 0.370" tip steel iron shaft, iron head, ferrule, grip, grip tape, grip solvent and epoxy (24hrs)


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Step one: Hosel preparation. Ream the hosel of your iron with a 3/8" reamer (a piece of sand paper wrapped around a drill bit would work ). This process deburs the hosel and assures a good bond with the epoxy. You may also want to countersink the inside edge of the hosel to reduce stress on the shaft at its most vulnerable point (this is a must if you are installing graphite shafts).


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Step two: Tipping and cutting procedure. Standard tip trimming charts come with each type or model of shaft used. Reference the tip trimming instructions for your particular shaft to determine how much to cut off each shaft tip for our desired flex. In our example, we are using a True Temper Dynamic Steel shaft. And below is a table that contains the tip trim instructions used with our Dynamic Steel shaft.


Iron tip trim 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Wedges
R flex 0 0.5 1 1.5 2 2.5 3 3.5 4 4.25
S flex 2 2.5 3 3.5
4 4.5 5 5.5 6 6.25
std. length 39.5 39 38.5 38 37.5 37 36.5 36 35.5 35




In order for the shaft to play to its proper specifications, we will need to trim the proper amount off the tip (skinny part) of the shaft. For our movie sample, we are tipping our #7 iron to a regular flex for a standard length of 36.5". Our trim chart shows that for a regular flex #7 iron, we need to tip (cut off) 3" to maintain a standard regular flex.

To cut steel shafts you may use a tube cutter commonly used for plumbing or a fine-toothed hacksaw to do your cutting. We are using a chop saw (also known as a cutoff wheel).





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Step three: Abrading the tip. To provide a proper bonding surface, we must roughen up the shaft tip with sandpaper, emory cloth, or a grinding wheel. First, insert the shaft tip into the hosel and mark about 1/4" above the hosel edge. We will be using a 1" ferrule in our example, so we've made sure that the roughened surface doesn't show above the ferrule. (If our example didn't require a ferrule, then we would have marked our shaft tip at 1/8" below the hosel edge so that the roughened surface wouldn't show). Remove the shaft from the hosel and lightly sand or grind off the smooth polished finish off the shaft tip.



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Step four: Installing the ferrule. Many irons require a ferrule that acts like a trim piece between the shaft and hosel. With our 1" ferrule, begin by countersinking the wider end of the ferrule. This rounds the inside edge so that epoxy will bond the ferrule to the shaft. Remember that 1/4" that we roughed up past the hosel's edge? Well, this makes sure that our ferrule doesn't become loose and slide up the shaft. Now, slide on the small end of the ferrule onto the tip of the shaft and push onto the tip about 1/2". Slip the hosel of the iron onto the tip of the shaft and against the ferrule edge and tap downward lightly on the ground with the butt end until the shaft tip hits the bottom of the hosel (You can tell by the sound that the tip has reached the bottom, or you can measure the depth of the hosel and match it against the tip penetration). The ferrule should rest flatly against the top edge of the hosel.



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Step five: Mix and apply epoxy (view mixing epoxy from putter assembly). Always follow the manufacturer's mixing instructions carefully. If you don't, the bond could fail, causing the iron head to come loose and fly off causing serious injury! We will be using 24hrs epoxy mix. With an ice cream stick, coat the inside of the hosel generously and then the shaft tip making sure you coat the entire tip including up and under the countersunk portion of the ferrule. Next, insert the shaft into the iron head by pushing the shaft down with a clockwise twist until the shaft tip hits the bottom of the hosel. The ferrule should sit flush against the top of the hosel. If you want to align the shaft logo with the clubhead, you can do so by turning cockwise until the logo is on top . Now wipe away excess epoxy with a small paper towel, and again, this time with a little grip solvent for an absolutely clean finish! Let the iron dry with the head down and as straight vertically as possible. Make sure the iron cannot slide or dislodge itself from the drying position. Epoxy should cure in about 24 hours.



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Step six: Cutting the iron to finish length. With the club sitting on the floor in address position, measure from the heel of the iron as it meets the floor and along the shaft to 36.5" and mark the shaft with a marker. Cut at marked length. For our movie example, we are using a special clublength measuring ruler that allow us to measure club length on a flat table surface.


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Step seven: we will install the grip. With the club held firmly in a vise with a protective rubber clamp, or in a grip vise (item#MIT-022), place a trash can or similar tray under the butt end of the shaft to collect and reuse any solvent run-off. Using a strip of double-stick grip tape (item#SG-200) the same length as our grip, place the grip tape centered and along the butt of the shaft with about 1/2" overlapping the butt end. Twist this overlapping tape and stuff it inside the butt end. Holding the grip in its proper alignment (with logo up), and with your right thumb plugging the grip's weep hole, squeeze some grip solvent into the grip. With your left index finger covering the mouth of the grip, shake the grip solvent inside the grip to make sure entire grip inside is wet. Now pour the solvent from the grip onto the entire length of the grip tape from the front edge of the tape towards the butt end.



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Step eight: Make sure that the entire length of tape is saturated with solvent. Without pausing, place the mouth of the grip from the underside of the butt end to over the entire butt and push firmly with both hands on the grip until the grip has been stopped by the butt of the shaft hitting the inside of the grip cap. You now have a few seconds to align the grip if it needs adjusting. A rag with a little grip solvent soaked in can wipe away any excess solvent or gunk.

Let dry for about 2 hours.