how do i make my dog stop pulling on the lead?

Question

he is a 2 year old staffordshire bull terrier, i have tried using a choke chain on him but he just carries on pulling whilst choking! ive tried the quick stop and turn back the other way trick and that dosent seem to have helped at all, its getting to the point that i hate walking him now because he pulls so hard the lead cuts into my hand and he makes me walk funny! he also doesent stay to one side of me he crosses my path constantly making me trip over him, when i give a sharp tug on the lead when he is pulling it just seems to scare him and he walks lower to the ground like he thinks im going to hit him and pulls even more trying to get home, anyone have any ideas that mite slow him down a bit because he really is getting out of hand, thanks.

Answer 1

Buy a Halti. It goes over the nose and round the neck like a collar and when he pulls his face will go nearer and nearer the ground. This made a massive improvement on my alsation lab cross. I couldn't walk him before because he was too powerful and now he walks very nicely. 100% improvement. Good Luck

Answer 2

I dont personally agree with choke chains,for 1 there not very effective!Try a halti or gentle leader,it simply go's round the dogs head in the same way a horse wears a head collar.As you have total control over there head the dog stops pulling,they really are god sends to dogs that pull.Some people may suggest a harness but beeing a muscle packed strong dog,the staffy normally pulls into them and there for the pulling isn't stopped.At the same time as using a halti train your dog the heel command,every time he puts pressure on the lead gently pull him back and say heel,offer him a tit bit if you wish,this takes consistency and patience,were finally getting some where with our lab x who now actually tends to walk beside us with or with out the halti.Good luck.p.s haltis can be found in good pet shops.

Answer 3

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Since it is obvious that you do not have a clue about obedience training, your services should be for free. You cannot train even an adult dog for 8 hours a day. About the most that can be done at any one time is 10 - 20 minutes and that is with an adult dog and not a puppy. The attention span on this baby is extremely short and training session should be no more than 10 minutes and twice a day. Additionally, there isn't going to be much learned if you will only be training for 5 days. Obedience training is cumulative and is done over a much longer period of at least several weeks to several months.
What you can charge is determined by your experience, reputation, and accomplishments and in a case like this, should also include guaranteed expectations. Just working with dogs over several years, is not the experience that is necessary to be a dog trainer. There are too many people who are putting that title to their name and fleecing the public. Don't be one of them.

Answer 4

I also have a staffie =] Harnesses are better for staffordshire bull terriors because they have small necks ( just a tip ). You need to let your dog know that yoy are boss. Heres a strange tip for you but it sometimes works, in the wild the dominant dog makes a loud, deep noise when another dog steps out of line, maybe you should try doing the same when your dog pulls on the lead. Strange but true =]

Hope this helps

=] Demz =]

Answer 5

Generally a halti should work, although some dogs do not take them and try anything possible to get them off. A tip that could work if that when he starts pulling just stop and don't move until the lead relaxes (which can be difficult, especially if he's stubborn), once the lead is relaxed walk on and praise him.

Answer 6

i have a harness for my big golden retriever have you tired to do heel work try at home and a little at a time and stop when you start to get cross try getting his attention with food or a squeaky toy on a lead with a silly high voice say heel and keep him near you left side walk two steps the sit praise him to bits in the high voice every time he dose it wright and give him a food treat increase the steps slowly until he walks to heel you must keep it up and try two or three times a day for about five to ten Min's i don't think it matters what collar or harness you use its what suits you and him hope this helps if not try a local obedience class there well worth it an fun

Answer 7

Try sudden changes in direction when he pulls even to the point where you walk into him, you have to do this for as long as it takes, this will make him unsure of where you are taking him. Also change your routes that you use for you're regular walks. Firmly tell him heel, which is where he should be when walking. Another thing to try is to stop walking when he pulls, and wait until the leash become slack then carry on walking plus walk slower than you normally do. Good luck.

Answer 8

The rule of thumb when your using the tug method is to tell him no when you tug the lead. Repeat this every time when you tug followed with the no command. He'll learn. Just make sure when he starts to learn you praise him with a good boy and a pat or a treat. As for the crossing your path while your walking keep him on a short leash just long enough for him to stay by your side and if he starts to cross your path then you use the slight tug with the no command. It takes time to teach them but my yellow lab was the same way and using the tug and no command my yellow lab finally learned. She learned so well I never had to use a leash with her. She learned to stay by my side and when I stopped she stopped. It's a good learning tool I hope this helps you. But always remember to use the good praise and a doggy treat.

Answer 9

well use a deep voice on the dog and keep the leash really short and near you and if he tugs stop tell him no wait a but until he stops tugging if he doesnt go back to your house dont take him on a walk for a day or 2 then try it again if it still doesnt work take treats and try and persuade your dog not to pull on the lead
if none of this works then take him to a proffesinal

Answer 10

I personally don't recommend pinch collars or choke chains to any of my students because they are considered negative reinforcement and quite honestly become crutches (ie: you have to always use them if you want your dog not to pull you around).

The first thing you have to realize is that once you choose a method to use, you have to stick with it. You can't try one thing for a week and then give up on it. Some dogs, particularly stubborn breeds (and bullies are at the top of this list!), can take weeks before they finally catch onto something. Positive reinforcement--praising your dog when he is actually doing it correctly instead of punishing him for doing the action incorrectly--will help greatly with getting him to understand what he should be doing.

Typically I tell people not to worry about the dog crossing in front of you or behind you. Learn to switch hands. :D The first thing you should be worried about is the pulling in general. The first thing to try is to simply stop moving and stand still. Plant your feet into the ground (be a tree) and hold onto your leash for dear life. It may take up to five minutes of standing there until your dog realizes he's making no headway. Once there's a bit of slack in the leash, start moving again. It may take you 20 minutes to walk down your driveway the first few times you try this, but the end result is worth it.

The second thing to try is to simply change directions when he pulls. I know you've tried it before, but remember: you have to be consistent and stick with it. You can either stop in your tracks and walk backwards a few steps until he follows you and the leash becomes slack again, or you can simply turn down a side street or do a complete 180. Make sure you aren't jerking on the leash when you do this--the fact that your dog is attached to the leash in the first place will ensure that he is towed along with you.

When it comes to tools of the trade, a normal harness will actually INCREASE your dog's ability to pull, particularly in a bullie breed with such big chests! This is because your dog is able to use all of his chest muscles and body bulk to do the pulling instead of his neck. As others have suggested, Haltis or GentleLeaders--both head halters--work very well, but they do take time to get your dog accustomed to. Make sure it is sized correctly to begin with (ask a trainer to help you fit one) and when your dog paws at it or rubs his face on the ground, VERY gently jingle your leash and tell him "Leave it." Once he leaves it alone, praise and reward. You never, EVER jerk back on a head halter or you risk hurting your dog's neck. When wearing one of these fun tools, you simply slow down or stop and wait. Your dog will get the point very quickly.

Another great tool is the Sporn Halter, which I love. It's a different type of halter that goes on like a collar, but has attachments that slip under your dogs front armpits. When your dog pulls, you simply slow down or stop and the parts under the armpits become uncomfortable: voila, slowed down dog. I would say about 40% of my students use these halters and absolutely love them. They are a fantastic alternative to someone that wants to work on pulling, but doesn't want the strict conformity of a GentleLeader.

The great thing about Sporn Halters and GentleLeaders/Haltis are that they are positive reinforcement tools and are eventually able to be weaned off of your dog. The end result: a dog that will walk without pulling no matter what he or she is wearing.

Hope this helps out a bit. :)