Installing Bamboo Flooring on Top of a Wood Subfloor
Important Notices
- Read the Warranty carefully before installing the product.
- All installed strips will be considered accepted by the installer and/or homeowner.
- Before you order flooring, make sure you add at least 5% to the actual area size you are going to cover. The industry standard for allowable small defects, mismilling or misgrading is 5 %.
Installation requirements
- Gypsum joints must be completed and dried.
- Concrete work must have been completed at least 45 days prior to installation.
- The heating system must be functional and the building must be heated up to 21°C (70°F) for a minimum of 7 days immediately prior to installation.
- The relative humidity of the building must be between 40% and 45%.
- Plywood humidity (subfloor) must not exceed 12%.
- Subfloor thickness must be a minimum of ¾”
- Particle boards or chipboards must not be used as the subfloor.
Before installing
**Do not install flooring that has not been properly acclimatized to humidity conditions. Recommended acclimatizing time is 7 days minimum in rooms where the flooring will be installed. Try to disperse flooring as much as possible. If this is not possible, make smaller stacks, break boxes, and open ends. Before starting installation, check moisture content on several randomly picked samples.
- Make sure the subfloor (plywood) is properly attached to the joists to avoid creaking.
- Correct slight irregularities on the subfloor with a sander.
- All the nails and screws of the subfloor must be driven in properly.
- Remove baseboards and doorsills.
- Cut 2cm (9/16”) off the bottom of the doorframes to insert the strips underneath them.
- Vacuum the subfloor regularly during installation to make sure it is always clean and dust free.
- A vapor barrier or felt paper (#15) placed between the subfloor and the strips will help keep the humidity content of the flooring more stable.
- 1 ¼” minimum length, 15-gage nails, or staples are recommended to fasten the floor.
Tools and Accessories required
- Measuring tape
- Miter saw
- Square
- Sawhorse
- Chalk line
- Handsaw
- Hammer
- Vacuum cleaner
- Crowbar
- Drill and drill bits
- Safety goggles
- Nail punch
- Level
- Hardwood hammer (manual or pneumatic) and rubber hammer
- Other tools and accessories may be necessary depending on site configuration and type of installation.
Installation Guide
- Locate the longest wall of the room where the product will be installed. This wall must be perpendicular to the joists. The flooring strips must be installed perpendicularly to the joists.
- Allow for a 13mm to 19mm (1/2” to 3/4”) expansion joint between the wall and the flooring strips. This joint will be hidden by a baseboard or quarter round.
- Draw a guide line with a chalk line. The guide line must be parallel to the wall. Calculate its distance from the wall as follows: expansion joint + strip flooring width + tongue width.
- Nail the first row by drilling holes on top of the strips first. The holes must be drilled 13mm (1/2”) from the side of the strip and 25cm (10”) from center to center. Also, drill holes on top of the tongue at a 45 degree angle. Using spiral roll shank nails, fix the first row of strips making sure you are aligned with the chalk line. Use a nail punch to hide the nails properly.
- For the second row, drill holes on top of the tongue at a 45 degree angle and nail it with spiral roll shank nails. Use a nail punch to hide the nails properly.
- To end a row, cut the strip at the correct length and use the remainder of the strip to start the next row. Do not forget to leave sufficient space for the expansion joint at the end of each row.
- Make sure you carefully choose the strips to avoid aligning the end joints with those of adjacent rows. A minimum of 15cm (6”) must be allowed to avoid aligning the end joints.
- Install subsequent rows using the hardwood hammer while respecting the rules for alignment joints and expansion joints. Nail the strips every 6” to 8”.
- When installing the last 4 or 5 rows, use of a hardwood hammer will not be possible because of the proximity of the adjacent wall. Proceed in the same way as you did for the second row at the beginning of installation.
- You may have to cut the last row lengthwise. Fix it in the same way you did for the first row, that is, from the top.
- Once installation of the strips is completed, use a touch-up pen to fill nail holes and correct other imperfections.
- Install baseboards and doorsills.
- Vacuum once again. Spray some flooring cleaner on a mop and clean your floor. Installation is now complete.
Practical tips
- Installation of a factory-finished, hardwood floor requires more care than a conventional floor to prevent damaging the floor’s finish during installation. Frequent use of a vacuum cleaner during installation is highly recommended to eliminate sawdust and wood chips.
- Place your tools on the plywood or on a piece of cardboard rather than directly on the hardwood floor.
- Verify frequently that the hardwood hammer works properly and make sure its base is clean. If the base is damaged or rough, place tape underneath it to protect your floor’s finish.
- To better hide the expansion joint around the room, cut the gypsum so that the wood can use that space as an expansion joint.
- Make sure the hardwood hammer is resting properly against the side of the strip before nailing. Inadequate positioning may damage the strips.
- If a nail is not driven in completely, use a nail punch and a conventional hammer.
- Save remaining strips after installation and store them in a proper place for future repairs.
Maintenance
- Use non-wax flooring cleaner to keep your floor in good condition. Use of conventional, domestic cleaners may permanently damage your floor’s finish.
- Never clean your hardwood floor with a wet mop or cloth. Water and wood are natural enemies.
- Do not wax your hardwood floor.
- Vacuum your floor frequently to eliminate the presence of solid particles (such as sand) which may damage and/or scratch your floor.
- Place protective felt underneath your furniture to protect your floor. Clean the felt regularly and replace it when necessary.
- When moving heavy furniture (fridge, piano, etc.), place a thick rug underneath furniture legs before moving.
Installing Bamboo Floors on Top of a Concrete Subfloor
Important Notices
- Read the Warranty carefully before installing the product.
- All installed strips will be considered accepted by the installer and/or homeowner.
- Before you order flooring, make sure you add at least 5% to the actual area size you are going to cover. The industry standard for allowable small defects, mismilling or misgrading is 5 %.
- This flooring is to be glued down. It is not covered by warranty if it is floated.
- The adhesive has to be a 100% Urethane-based product.
- The adhesive manufacturer’s installation instructions are to be followed.
Installation requirements
- Gypsum joints must be completed and dried.
- Concrete work must have been completed at least 45 days prior to installation.
- The heating system must be functional and the building must be heated up to 21°C (70°F) for a minimum of 7 days immediately prior to installation.
- The relative humidity of the building must be between 40% and 45%
- Refer to the adhesive’s installation instructions to find the allowable moisture level of the concrete.
- Maximum acceptable floor variation is 1/8” in 10 feet.
Before installing
**Do not install flooring that has not been properly acclimatized to humidity conditions. Recommended acclimatizing time is 7 days minimum in rooms where the flooring will be installed. Try to disperse flooring as much as possible. If it is not possible, make smaller stacks, break boxes and open ends. Before starting installation, check moisture content on several randomly picked samples.
- Correct slight irregularities on the subfloor.
- Remove baseboards and doorsills.
- Cut 9/16” off the bottom of the doorframes to insert the strips underneath them.
- Vacuum the subfloor regularly during installation to make sure it is always clean and dust free.
Tools and Accessories required
- Measuring tape
- Miter saw
- Square
- Sawhorse
- Chalk line
- Handsaw
- Vacuum cleaner
- Crowbar
- Safety goggles
- Level
- Trowel
- Other tools and accessories may be necessary depending on site configuration and type of installation.
Installation Guide
- Locate the longest wall of the room where the product will be installed.
- Allow for a 9/16” expansion joint between the wall and the flooring strips. This joint will be hidden by a baseboard or quarter round.
- Draw a guide line with a chalk line. The guide line must be parallel to the wall. Calculate its distance from the wall as follows: expansion joint + strip flooring width + tongue width.
- To end a row, cut the strip at the correct length and use the remainder of the strip to start the next row. Do not forget to leave sufficient space for the expansion joint at the end of each row.
- Make sure you carefully choose the strips to avoid aligning the end joints with those of adjacent rows. A minimum of 15cm (6”) must be allowed to avoid aligning the end joints.
- You may have to cut the last row lengthwise. Fix it in the same way you did for the first row, that is, from the top.
- Install baseboards and doorsills.
- Vacuum once again. Spray some flooring cleaner on a mop and clean your floor. Installation is now complete.
Practical tips
- Installation of a factory-finished hardwood floor requires more care than a conventional floor to prevent damaging the floor’s finish during installation. Frequent use of a vacuum cleaner during installation is highly recommended to eliminate saw dust and wood chips.
- Place your tools on the plywood or on a piece of cardboard rather than directly on the hardwood floor.
- To better hide the expansion joint around the room, cut the gypsum so that the wood can use that space as an expansion joint.
- If a strip presents too much color variation or a minor defect, put it aside and use it in a less visible area such as a closet. You can also cut a defective strip and use it to start or end a row.
- Save remaining strips after installation and store them in a proper place for future repairs.
- Remove adhesive from surface of the floor as soon as possible.
Maintenance
- Use non-wax flooring cleaner to keep your floor in good condition. Use of conventional, domestic cleaners may permanently damage your floor’s finish.
- Never clean your hardwood floor with a wet mop or cloth. Water and wood are natural enemies.
- Do not wax your hardwood floor.
- Vacuum your floor frequently to eliminate the presence of solid particles (such as sand) which may damage and/or scratch your floor.
- Place protective felt underneath your furniture to protect your floor. Clean the felt regularly and replace it when necessary.
- When moving heavy furniture (fridge, piano, etc.), place a thick rug underneath furniture legs before moving.
2007-03-17 14:59:16
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answer #1
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answered by Mum to 3 cute kids 5
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bamboo is a material that can be in two basic types of floors.
First is solid hardwood. Bamboo is different from oak or teak or other traditional hardwoods because it is technically a grass. So, solid bamboo is actually a laminate made with glue. Nevertheless, there are two ways to install solid hardwood. You can glue it down or nail it down. Both are labor intensive and I'd research it pretty thoroughly before I signed up for that work.
The other type of bamboo is engineered wood where there is a thin layer of bamboo over plywood. They are often engineered to click together so that you don't use nails or glue. These floors look identical to regular hardwood but they are called floating floors because they just lay on top of the sub floor by weight. They are easy to install. I did one and it was a bit tricky at first, but once I got the hang of it I could really move quickly. It still takes some effort to work around closets and door jambs. The one down side is that it sounds a bit hollow when you walk on it.
Tips:
- Bamboo can be a bit soft and prone to scratching and denting. I wouldn't use it for an entry way or kitchen. Carbonized bamboo is particularly soft so I'd probably avoid that.
- I recommend a chop saw (mitre saw) that has a big enough blade to cut through the whole piece of wood. If you have particularly wide planks look for a compound mitre saw.
- A flexible Japanese saw is very useful for shaving door jambs and trim to just the right height to slide the flooring underneath.
- A very important piece of prep work is to make sure the sub floor is flat. It's not so important to be level, but it shouldn't have hills or dips. This can end up being the biggest part of the job.
I could go on for a while which makes me realize that the best thing to do is to talk to someone who has done this before.
2007-03-17 12:57:19
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answer #2
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answered by Billl 2
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A true 3/4 inch Bamboo is not like laminate or pergo.... Laminate is a full floating floor. Bamboo, along with 3/4 inch hardwood must be fasten to the floor every 6 to 8 inches using either a cleat nail, or a staple. In the recent they have come out with engineered bamboo products, But, I'm not familiar with any true Bamboo floors that are floating. Along with nailing, the bamboo must be glued as well. It can be a messy project if your not carefull. Doing it yourself I would recomend to thourally reading the installation instructions that come with your floor. As far as tools, you will need a table saw, a chop ( miter ) saw, Number 8d nails, a hammer,nail set, tape measure, and a trowel ( 3/32 V- nothch ). Use the adhesive reccomended by the manufactor, and purchase wood putty to match your floor. The hardwood nailer can be rented at home depot, or most any rental outlet, they will also have the nails or staples needed. Good luck. If you get glue on the floor, use mineral spirits to wipe it off.
Sorry ahandusa, I did'nt mean any disrespect.
2007-03-17 12:10:39
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answer #3
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answered by installafloor 2
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Bamboo flooring installs the same way Pergo or any of the laminate flooring systems do.
I've done quite a bit of laminate here @ home myself. I looked at the bamboo, but by the time it came out I had already installed a oak finish in the ajoining room so I stayed with that look. Friend of mine has doen the bamboo and it is very nice looking.
You will need a small table saw, like a $99.99 from Sears or Lowes, or just rent one and get the Install Kit. It's all about not damaging the product.
2007-03-17 11:51:56
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answer #4
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answered by ahandusa 1
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Bamboo, the innovative product of the New Century is a natural, beautiful and environmentally friendly alternative to our limited global supply of wood. Today, people are rediscovering the advantages of Bamboo, as one of the world's key construction materials. Fascinated by the qualities of the Bamboo as one of the strongest building materials, and an essential structural material in earthquake architecture, the architects and engineers are integrating Bamboo products into modern technologies for an incredible amount of application in various aspects of construction.
2014-03-30 14:14:33
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answer #5
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answered by Ayush 2
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2017-01-26 12:50:37
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answer #6
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answered by ? 4
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Bamboo wood floor installation is not much different from standard hardwood floor installation. For homeowners, the primary motivation for doing bamboo wood floor installation is to save money. It can be installed in half the cost by doing it yourself.Installing a bamboo floor can be an easy weekend project. As bamboo is a natural product, natural variations in color may occur within and between individual flooring planks. To visualize the range of colors within the flooring style you are considering, compare your samples to the photos on our web site. During installation, work from several cartons at a time to achieve a uniform appearance across the entire floor.
2014-05-14 14:59:52
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answer #7
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answered by ? 2
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Q. How do I install bamboo flooring?
There are several things to consider before you begin to install bamboo flooring. Careful preparation before beginning will make installing your bamboo floor a quick and easy process. Ensure that your sub-floor is flat and smooth. Take extra care when installing bamboo flooring over radiant heating. Ensure that you read both the bamboo flooring and radiant heat system instructions carefully before beginning. Read your bamboo flooring manufacturer’s installation instructions carefully. Allow your bamboo flooring to acclimate in the room where it will be installed for a minimum of 72 hours. Inspect each bamboo flooring panel carefully for defects or damage before installing it. Always use a tapping block and never hit bamboo flooring directly to avoid fracturing the flooring edge. A piece of flooring trim makes a good tapping block. Add at least 5% to your square footage when ordering to allow for waste and cuts
Q. How do I maintain my bamboo flooring?
In order to maximize the durability and beauty of your bamboo flooring, we recommend the following practices as part of your floor’s normal care and maintenance.
Place doormats or rugs at entrances to collect moister, sand, grit and other potentially damaging substances from being tracked onto your bamboo floor.
Dust mop or vacuum with a soft accessory to keep your bamboo floor clean from dust, dirt or grit. Bamboo flooring cleans easily with a Swiffer or similar type dry mop. For sticky spots use a soft damp cloth to gently scrub the floor. If necessary, use a generic hardwood floor cleaner. Do not use steel wool or other abrasive scouring pads. Do not use harsh detergents, abrasive cleansers, or corrosive chemicals to clean your bamboo floor. Avoid excessive water. Use mats in the kitchen, bathroom and laundry room to protect against spills. If a spill occurs, blot it up immediately with a dry cloth or slightly damp mop. Use only colorfast and non-scratch carpeting or pads on your bamboo floor. Protect the floor from furniture legs and do not walk on the floor with high-heeled shoes. Although bamboo flooring has effective UV inhibitors in its pre-finish, it is recommended that it not be exposed to direct sunlight for long periods.
Q. What are the benefits of bamboo flooring?
A. Bamboo flooring is rapidly becoming one of the most popular types of residential flooring. Here are a few reasons why you should choose a bamboo floor: Bamboo floors are easy to clean. Bamboo floors are ideal for allergy sufferers as they do not promote dust or harbor dust mites. Bamboo flooring is an inexpensive alternative to hardwood flooring, usually costing 25% to 50% less than hardwood. Bamboo flooring is long-lasting. Bamboo flooring can be installed over numerous types of sub-floors such as: wood, sheathing grade plywood, vinyl tile, or Oriented Strand Board. Bamboo floors are environmentally friendly. They use a quickly renewable crop. Made with safe resins, they have extremely low formaldehyde emissions and make excellent floors for healthy homes.
Q. Can I clean my bamboo floor with a mop?
Bamboo flooring cleans easily with a Swiffer or similar type dry mop. As with a hardwood floor, you should avoid excessive moisture. A slightly damp mop may be used to mop up a spill.
Q. When ordering bamboo flooring how much extra should I order to allow for waste?
As a rule of thumb for non-professionals, add 7% to 9% for waste and cuts depending on your skill level and the layout of the area.
for more insights, visit below link...
2015-12-28 16:16:14
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answer #8
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answered by ? 1
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a glue down bambo or nail down and over plywood subfloor or over concrete?
glue down can only use Bostiks best urethane glue, it messy unless you are experience using it, and it must be ideally installed over a vapor barrier ( i use epoxy paint for barrier since it bonds well to clean concrete )
2007-03-17 12:37:32
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answer #9
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answered by Anonymous
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