how do you teach a kitten to use a litter box anda scratching post? l?

Answer 1

The crucial thing to remember is to have the litter box ready, before you bring the kitten home. You need to put it in there as soon as you get in the door with it, and everytime it eats, and as soon as it wakes up--straight back into the box. If it pees elsewhere, it will make it harder to litter train it. Have the scratching post handy, and if you notice kitty scratch the furniture, put it on the post straight away. It's all about YOU being vigilant.

Answer 2

1. Litterbox: You put the kitten in, when it hasn't peed for a while, so it has some pee, and help it dig a little with the front paws. If she gets it and pees then, it's great, encourage her and say well done. If not, repeat later, and if she does it outside just put the poo in the litterbox and show her, even help her to cover it up with sand. Then clean the litterbox again because tehy like it clean.
2. Scratching post: the kitten will try to scratch something at some point, maybe the scratching post. If she does it to the scratching post, encourage her and play with her. If she tries to do it to your carpet, grab her gently from the neck like her mummy would, and say NO, and put her on the scratching post softly and say here, and help her scratch a little. She'll get the idea after 2-3 times you do that. When she finally scratches the post praise her.

Answer 3

What I did when I brought my kitten home was he would sleep with me and every time he woke up in the night I would get up and take him to the litterbox. Just like a baby and a feeding I guess. Pretty soon he was just going like it was normal and he had been doing it from the beginning.
As for the scratching post, my cat seems to like those round things with the ball in them. In the middle is cardboard you can put catnip in. He's claws like crazy at it. It is called Turbo Scratcher from Pet Supplies. You can also use a squirt gun to stop them from getting into things they shouldn't be doing.

Answer 4

to coach a cat to apply the littler is rather undemanding.positioned the clutter in the field and place it in an area the place the cat can get admission to it undemanding and could experience soft, then place the cat in the field, that between the cats paws and have it scratch the clutter, from there they exceedingly plenty get the hint. If kitty chooses to circulate outdoors of the field, %. it up and place this is poo in the clutter field and repeat a similar drill of putting the cat in the field and then having certainly one of it;s paws scratch the field, even have it positioned clutter on suitable of the poo so the cat can study to conceal its poo. additionally do no longer use amonia products in the abode. Cat urine includes amonia and any product you usewill leave an amonia scent for kitty, kitty will think of this is okay to urinste in those areas. are you able to get the kitten to consume yet? How are this is nostril and eyes? to verify the intercourse: verify below the cat on men there will be 2 small around lums close to the anus, and then a small hollow the place the penis is. In lady cats there will be the anus and a 2d hollow spectacular next to it. additionally the vet could make optimistic it for you in case you're uncertain. additionally be optimistic to get kittie spayed or neutered. And be optimistic to be feeding kitten chow, kittens choose a good number of vitmins, like a youthful infant does.

Answer 5

I just kept putting them in the litter box and they figured out to use it, for the scratching post I put a little catnip on it and it worked out

Answer 6

Put some catnip on them. It attracts the cats to it. You can buy it at pet stores. I just bought some at Wal-mart, also. Around $3 for a bag.

Be sure you rub the leaves a little so to release the scent of the catnip.

Answer 7

Most cats have a specific preference about where they want to eliminate. By following the suggestions outlined in this handout, you'll be able to start off on the right foot with your new cat.

Location
Most people are inclined to place the litter box in an out-of-the-way spot in order to minimize odor and loose particles of cat litter in the house. Often, the litter box ends up in the basement, sometimes next to an appliance and/or on a cold cement floor. This type of location can be undesirable from your cat's point of view for several reasons.

If you have a kitten or an older cat, she may not be able to get down a long flight of stairs in time to get to the litter box. Since she is new to the household, she may not remember where the litter box is if it's located in an area she seldom frequents. Your cat may be startled while using the litter box if a furnace, washer or dryer suddenly comes on and that may be the last time she'll risk such a frightening experience! If your cat likes to scratch the surface surrounding her litter box, she may find a cold cement floor unappealing.

Therefore, you may have to compromise. The litter box should be kept in a location that affords your cat some privacy, but is also conveniently located. If you place the litter box in a closet or a bathroom, be sure the door is wedged open from both sides, in order to prevent her from being trapped in or out. Depending on where it's located, you might consider cutting a hole in a closet door and adding a swinging door. If the litter box sits on a smooth, slick or cold surface, put a small throw rug underneath the litter box.

Type Of Litter
Research has shown that most cats prefer fine-grained litters, presumably because they have a softer feel. The new scoopable litters usually have finer grains than the typical clay litter. However, high-quality, dust-free, clay litters are relatively small-grained and may be perfectly acceptable to your cat. Potting soil also has a very soft texture, but is not very absorbent. If you suspect your cat has a history of spending time outdoors and is likely to eliminate in your houseplants, you can try mixing some potting soil with your regular litter. Pellet-type litters or those made from citrus peels are not recommended. Once you find a litter your cat likes, don't change types or brands. Buying the least expensive litter or whatever brand happens to be on sale, could result in your cat not using the litter box.

Many cats are put off by the odor of scented or deodorant litters. For the same reason, it's not a good idea to place a room deodorizer or air freshener near the litter box. A thin layer of baking soda placed on the bottom of the box will help absorb odors without repelling your cat. Odor shouldn't be a problem if the litter box is kept clean. If you find the litter box odor offensive, your cat probably finds it even more offensive and won't want to eliminate there.

Number Of Litter Boxes
You should have at least as many litter boxes as you have cats. That way, none of them will ever be prevented from eliminating in the litter box because it's already occupied. You might also consider placing them in several locations around the house, so that no one cat can "guard" the litter box area and prevent the other cats from accessing it. We also recommend that you place at least one litter box on each level of your house. It's not possible to designate a personal litter box for each cat in your household, as cats will use any litter box that's available. Occasionally, a cat may refuse to use the litter box after another cat has used it. In this case, all of the litter boxes will need to be kept extremely clean and additional boxes may be needed.

To Cover Or Not To Cover
Some people prefer to use a covered litter box, however, there are some potential problems with using this type of box. You may want to experiment by offering both types at first, to discover what your cat prefers.

Potential Problems
w You may forget to clean the litter box as frequently as you should because the dirty litter is "out of sight -- out of mind."
w A covered litter box traps odors inside, so it will need to be cleaned more often than an open one.
w A covered litter box may not allow a large cat sufficient room to turn around, scratch, dig or position herself in the way she wants.
w A covered litter box may also make it easier for another cat to lay in wait and "ambush" the user as she exits the box. On the other hand, a covered litter box may feel more private and may be preferred by timid cats.
Cleaning The Box
To meet the needs of the most discriminating cat, feces should be scooped out of the litter box daily. How often you change the litter depends on the number of cats you have, the number of litter boxes, and the type of litter you use. Twice a week is a general guideline for clay litter, but depending on the circumstances, you may need to change it every other day or once a week. If you scoop the litter daily, scoopable litter can go two to three weeks before the litter needs to be changed. If you notice an odor or if much of the litter is wet or clumped, it's time for a change. Don't use strong smelling chemicals or cleaning products when washing the litter box, as it may cause your cat to avoid it. Washing with soap and water should be sufficient.

Liners
Some cats don't mind having a liner in the litter box, while others do. Again, you may want to experiment to see if your cat is bothered by a liner in the box. If you do use a liner, make sure it's anchored in place, so it can't easily catch your cat's claws or be pulled out of place.

Depth Of Litter
Some people think that the more litter they put in the box, the less often they will have to clean it. This is not true. Most cats won't use litter that's more than about two inches deep. In fact, some long-haired cats, actually prefer less litter and a smooth, slick surface, such as the bottom of the litter box. The litter box needs to be cleaned on a regular basis and adding extra litter is not a way around that chore.

"Litter-Training" Cats
There's really no such thing as "litter-training" a cat in the same way one would house-train a dog. A cat doesn't need to be taught what to do with a litterbox. The only thing you need to do is provide an acceptable, accessible litter box, using the suggestions above. It's not necessary to take your cat to the litter box and move her paws back and forth in the litter, in fact, we don't recommend it. This may actually be an unpleasant experience for your cat and is likely to initiate a negative association with the litter box.

If Problems Develop
If your cat begins to eliminate in areas other than the litterbox, your first call should always be to your veterinarian. Many medical conditions can cause a change in a cat's litter box habits. If your veterinarian determines that your cat is healthy, the cause may be behavioral. Most litterbox behavior problems can be resolved by using behavior modification techniques. Punishment is not the answer. For long-standing or complex situations, contact an animal behavior specialist who has experience working with cats.

"Safe" Toys
There are many factors that contribute to the safety or danger of a toy. Many of those factors, however, are completely dependent upon your cat's size, activity level and personal preference. Another factor to be considered is the environment in which your cat spends her time. Although we can't guarantee your cat's enthusiasm or her safety with any specific toy, we can offer the following guidelines.

Be Cautious
The things that are usually the most attractive to cats are often the very things that are the most dangerous. Cat-proof your home by checking for: string, ribbon, yarn, rubber bands, plastic milk jug rings, paper clips, pins, needles, and anything else that could be ingested. All of these items are dangerous, no matter how cute your cat may look when she's playing with them.

Avoid or alter any toys that aren't "cat-proof" by removing ribbons, feathers, strings, eyes, or other small parts that could be chewed and/or ingested.

Soft toys should be machine washable. Check labels for child safety, as a stuffed toy that's labeled as safe for children under three years old, doesn't contain dangerous fillings. Problem fillings include things like nutshells and polystyrene beads. Also, rigid toys are not as attractive to cats.

Toys We Recommend
Active Toys:
Round plastic shower curtain rings are fun either as a single ring to bat around, hide or carry, or when linked together and hung in an enticing spot.
Plastic rolling balls, with or without bells inside.
Ping-Pong balls and plastic practice golf balls with holes, to help cats carry them. Try putting one in a dry bathtub, as the captive ball is much more fun than one that escapes under the sofa. You'll probably want to remove the balls from the bathtub before bedtime, unless you can't hear the action from your bedroom. Two o'clock in the morning seems to be a prime time for this game.
Paper bags with any handles removed. Paper bags are good for pouncing, hiding and interactive play. They're also a great distraction if you need your cat to pay less attention to what you're trying to accomplish. Plastic bags are not a good idea, as many cats like to chew and ingest the plastic.
Sisal-wrapped toys are very attractive to cats that tend to ignore soft toys.
Empty cardboard rolls from toilet paper and paper towels are ideal cat toys, especially if you "unwind" a little cardboard to get them started.
Catnip:
Catnip-filled soft toys are fun to kick, carry and rub.
Plain catnip can be crushed and sprinkled on the carpet, or on a towel placed on the floor if you want to be able to remove all traces. The catnip oils will stay in the carpet, and although they're not visible to us, your cat will still be able to smell them.
Catnip sprays rarely have enough power to be attractive to cats.
Not all cats are attracted to catnip. Some cats may become over-stimulated to the point of aggressive play and others may be slightly sedated.
Kittens under six months old seem to be immune to catnip.
Catnip is not addictive and is perfectly safe for cats to roll in, rub in or eat.
Comfort Toys
Soft stuffed animals are good for several purposes. For some cats, the stuffed animal should be small enough to carry around. For cats that want to "kill" the toy, the stuffed animal should be about the same size as the cat. Toys with legs and a tail seem to be even more attractive to cats.
Cardboard boxes, especially those a tiny bit too small for your cat to really fit into.
Get The Most Out Of Toys!
Rotate your cat's toys weekly by making only four or five toys available at a time. Keep a variety of types easily accessible. If your cat has a huge favorite, like a soft "baby" that she loves to cuddle with, you should probably leave that one out all the time, or risk the wrath of your cat!
Provide toys that offer a variety of uses - at least one toy to carry, one to "kill," one to roll and one to "baby."
"Hide and Seek" is a fun game for cats to play. "Found" toys are often much more attractive than a toy which is blatantly introduced.