Oil Painting Mediums: Less expensive substitutes?

Question

I am new to oil painting and have been trying to figure out how to make my own stand oils and brush cleaners.
I've noticed that supplies are much cheaper if you buy them from hardware stores (in much larger quantities) than art stores, but I'm not sure if they are adequate replacements.

Here's a little of what I've come across:
Is boiled linseed oil (hardware product) the same as purified linseed oil (art product)?

For turpentine replacements: Is turpatine the same thing as turpenoid? Are they odorless?

Are (odorless) mineral spirits or low-odor paint thinners adequate substitutes?

I'm assuming that a decent stand oil would consist of equal parts of oil and thinner. Is this correct?

Any other suggestions for a beginning oil painter?

Answer 1

Many interesting answers up there.
With all the solvents you mentioned, use anything that gets the job done with the least smell. Make sure you work in a room with a window cracked open ... just because YOU can't smell the fumes doesn't mean your pilot lights won't use them as fuel. Don't want your house to go KABOOM!
Do not use solvents as thinners for your paints.
When you dirty up enough solvent that you need to dispose if it, I know Lowe's (the home improvement MegaMart) will take up to a gallon (maybe more depending on the store) at a time for FREE disposal.

As far as linseed oil: artist's grade is a highly refined oil. Unless you're just experimenting with cheap paints don't use the hardware store type.
BTW, linseed oil does not "dry" it "oxidizes." Therefore it stays open and workable for a time. Actually, even after the paint is no longer workable it takes several YEARS for oxidizing oils to close up. Varnishing helps keep pollutants from penetrating the paint ... geez I could go on but you need the fun of doing some research on your own, besides I'm not trying to write a book here.

Toxicity is STILL a problem. NOT all paints are safe despite what you may read.
That being said, there's a very simple solution:
Just keep the paints away from
your mouth, eyes, and skin,
your kid's mouth, eyes, and skin, and
your pet's mouth, eyes, and skin.
If you're the hands-on type (like me :-D) wear rubber or latex gloves.

Most of all HAVE FUN!
.

Answer 2

You have already recieved some good advice. Every artist has their own way of doing things. As for being a beginner, you just have to play with it. As many have said, oil takes a long time to dry. I left a pallet full of fresh, unmixed oil paint on Thursday, and when I returned today, Wednesday, it was all still very workable. !!!However, my painting was dry as a bone. Of course I only blocked in my shapes and still need to go into it and bring in the finishing details. One of my favorite mediums after Turp, is Japan drier. You can buy it reletivity cheap at a good home improvement store like Home Depot. Liquin is another good quality medium to speed up your drying time, and will give your painting a rich look. Working with oils is often a process of much layering and many glazes. Everyone usually developes their own style. After much practice. That's what art is all about. Practice practice and more practice. Before I begin an important painting in oil, I usually get into shape by painting a master study. What ever you do, don't fret, and don't let yourself get too discouraged, each painting you do you will become better and better. The best of luck with it, and to you. L.White

Answer 3

"Any other suggestions for a beginning oil painter?"

I know my comment is a little offbeat and won't win any prizes, but here goes.

I would like to share with you a technique taught to me by a master.

Basically, you paint in acrylics and varnish at the end in oils. The result is nearly indistinguishable and so much LESS TOXIC.

All the impastos, knife work, glazing that you may be used to in oils CAN be done with acrylic, a good paste medium, water, etc. Why not?

Then after it is finished (IF YOU WANT) you can glaze it matte or gloss or abstract smushes - whatever you like - with the oils themselves. The binding issue is not a problem because the dried acrylic on the canvas is no different than an acrylic gesso or acrylic prep work base.

Of course you can also glaze in acrylic water bases but some people like that final "oil finish" - it can really glisten or be foggy, clear, whatever you like using all the finest oil products (if you want to, that is).

Once in a rare while I miss my oil painting days but today almost exclusively I work in acrylics for both realism, abstract, collage, imapsto work and more. I NEVER thought I'd give up oils but my father was an artist his whole life and he died of liver cancer and I can't help thinking that MAYBE all that toxic crap played some part!

Namaste.

Answer 4

To answer you question, oils are more dangerous but if used properly there is no risk. Like not eating or putting the stuff in your mouth and painting and keeping your drying paintings in a ventilated area, not in your bedroom etc.
The things that you buy in your art store are archival quality . So they should not yellow or change color in the future.
Boiled linseed oil is a different quality ad will yellow over time.
Turpentine stinks pretty bad turpenoid don't and odorless even less. Also turpentine from hardware stores is of lesser quality it is good to clean brushes not to use with your paint.
Make shure that you buy good quality materials it will be easier for you to work and the effects will be better.
Your brushes, I don't buy the expensive brushes and that is were my savings come in.
Also you can save by buying larger tubes of paint and student quality paints in the beginning, they don't have as much pigment in them but are OK to start with. I use Georgian paint the big tubes they, I like their consistency and the price is good too.
Check out my web site http://www.piotrwolodkowicz.com

Answer 5

Moonrose,


From wiki:
"Toxicity

Many of the historical pigments were dangerous. Many toxic pigments, such as emerald green (copper(II)-acetoarsenite) and orpiment (arsenic sulfide), to name only two, have fallen from use. Some pigments still in use are toxic to some degree, however. Many of the reds and yellows are produced using cadmium. Flake white and Cremnitz white are made with basic lead carbonate. The cobalt colors, including cerulean blue, are made with cobalt. Some varieties of cobalt violet are made with cobalt arsenate. Manufacturers advise that care should be taken when using paints with these pigments. They advise never to spray apply toxic paints. Read the health warnings on the label. Some artists choose to avoid toxic pigments entirely, while others find that the unique properties of the paints more than compensate for the small risks inherent in using them.

Zinc white and titanium white may carry a California health label for lead content. Those paints contain far less lead than the lead whites. Some manufacturers put the text "California only" above the warning.

Thinners such as turpentine and white spirit are flammable. Some of them, particularly the poor grades of turpentine, have a strong odour. Both turpentine and odorless mineral spirits can be harmful to the health if used inappropriately. Thinners made from D-limonene are thought by some to have some potential for risk. The EPA has not made that determination, however. [1]"

So basically, it's no longer hazardous...

Answer 6

Yes, my suggestion is to stop messing with oils. All the products associated with the medium are carcinogens. Sorry, I can't tell you the exact statistics but there was a lot about this when Bob Ross' wife died of lung cancer and he followed her in about a year. He's still on TV but it's all reruns. I don't think anyone who does much of it lives very long. Maybe you can find something about it on line and I'd look but I've got to get off here and make dinner. I only work in acrylics now. Way too scary!

Answer 7

Try water soluble oils I think they are called Artisan you just use Water. Try them and good luck

Answer 8

Try using baby oil to clean brushes.