starting problem/problem with tach too?

Question

this is my friends car, its a 97 nissan maxima GLE.

here is what he said:

what happens is when i turn the key i can here the car try to start...BUT the rpm gauge doesnt do anything, it stays at 0. after a while of trying again and again the rpm gauge will jump up like it normally does and the car starts...BUT it sounds like its running rough and having a hard time running for about 5 seconds then runs fine. no problems once the car is running.

The car has been sitting for about 2 weeks in pretty cold weather...would this have anything to do with it? and I replaced the starter and battery last month....the starter died on me. the replacement starter was reconditioned but it sounds like its working fine..

here are the codes he pulled:
0304: Knock Sensor
0707: Rear O2 Sensor
1008: EVAP Canister purge control valve

none should have anythin to do with a starting problem though...so i dont get it?

what do you guys think? someone suggested it was the CKP sensor...but idk?

Answer 1

The Crankshaft Position Sensor does sound like the culprit, but it could also be that the ignition switch cylinder may have a broken arm (which mates with the plastic ignition switch.) that causes your car not to start unless you catch the arm just right. However the poor running condition sounds like it could be due to a possible distributor problem.

Here's a TSB I found on your car too.
SERVICE INFORMATION

In case a vehicle is hard to start during cold weather, we suggest the following procedure.

^ These steps are a review of the procedure outlined in the Owner's Manual.

^ Use these steps when the weather is cold and the engine is hard to start.

1. Press the accelerator pedal down approximately 1/3 of the way to the floor.

2. Hold the accelerator pedal in this position while cranking the engine.

3. Once the engine has started release the accelerator pedal.

NOTE: Do not race the engine while warming it up.

4. If the engine does not start within 15 seconds, stop cranking, wait at least 10 seconds. Then repeat steps 1 through 3.

Once an engine is started in cold weather condition:

^ You should keep the engine running for a minimum of 2-3 minutes before shutting it off.

^ Starting and stopping of the engine over a short period of time may make the vehicle more difficult to restart.

^ It may also adversely affect a vehicle's fuel economy.


And here's one more TSB I found about startability problems.

1. Connect CONSULT. If the vehicle you are working with is not CONSULT compatible, connect a tachometer (digital readout if possible).

2. Start the engine (the accelerator may have to be opened and/or the fuel pump fuse removed during cranking to get the engine to start), and warm it to operating temperature.

Note :
If the engine will not start after performing the above procedure, clean and dry the spark plugs, and attempt to start the engine again.

3. Run the engine at 2000 rpm (no load) for two minutes. Then shut the engine off.

4. Check the oil level and correct if necessary (between the "L" and "H" marks on the dipstick). If the oil level is overfull and has a gasoline odor, change the oil and filter before performing this procedure. If the crankcase is overfull with oil, idle speed adjustment may be affected.

5. Disconnect the throttle position sensor (TPS) connector. Now re-start the engine.

Note :
When the engine is in this condition (TPS disconnected), the IACV-AAC valve and the ignition timing are held in a "fixed" position, and the idle speed is called "base idle." If the engine stalls with the TPS disconnected, the base idle speed is adjusted too low. Temporarily increase the base idle speed by turning the adjusting screw on the IACV-AAC valve until the engine will idle.

Note :
On 1989-1994 Maxima's (J30) with VG30E engine the IACV-AAC valve is a "stepper motor" type valve. To set base idle on these vehicles, set the ECCS ECM mode screw fully "clockwise". This will close the IACV-AAC valve completely to allow base idle speed adjustment. Return the ECCS ECM mode screw fully counter-clockwise after setting the base idle (see step 9).

6. Rev the engine 2-3 times to 2000-3000 rpm, then allow it to idle (all accessories "off").

7. Check the ignition timing with a timing light and adjust it to specification (if necessary).

8. If the vehicle is not CONSULT compatible, monitor the idle speed using the tachometer connected in step 1. If using CONSULT, perform the following procedure:

Monitor the idle speed (CMPS^RPM) on the CONSULT screen.

9. Check the idle rpm and adjust to specification (if necessary) using the screw on the IACV-AAC valve.

If the model or model year you are working on is not listed, refer to the appropriate service manual (EF &) EC section, and perform the "IDLE SPEED/IGNITION TIMING/IDLE MIXTURE RATIO INSPECTION" procedure.

10. Turn the engine off, and re-connect the TPS.

It would be easier for you to take it to a dealer for them to check with their computer.

Answer 2

Before you get into lots of money try a new ingnition electrical switch available seperately from the ingnition/steering lock. And check the keys sometimes the tip of the key is not long enough to turn the ingnition switch all the way. This failure catches even the best mechanics off guard. You might notice the power to things like radio and A/C switch on and off strangely.

Answer 3

If the ignition ordinary became on then it will be the alternator became no longer charging yet when the belt became damaged the vehicle could overheat because the water pump wouldnt be pushed both---same belt

Answer 4

Ignition amplifier. They all have it.