How do i stop my dog biting and jumping up...?

Question

I have a 7 month old labrador who has responded well to all the training we have given so far apart from the two following things.
When he is playing he will happily put your hand in his mouth. Never to hurt and he never has hurt anyone but when he gets bigger it will obviously cause alam if he does it to the wrong person.
The other thing we struggle with is stopping him jumping up at work surfaces. This is obviously a problem as he can have muddy paws and we have to keep everything pushed to the back of shelves/window-cills/kitchen work tops etc. which isnt practical and looks cluttered to guests.

We have tried several tips from books but nothing has worked so far. I was just wondering if anyone had any other tips for me!

Answer 1

Kibbi21 does not need to be taken seriously.
First things first, I own three labs and breed them to sell.
The older two are pets, the youngest is a hunter.
you have to let your dogs know who the boss is, you don't "ask" anything of your dogs you "command" things from your dogs.
Keep that in mind, oh, if your one of those people who don't believe in correcting a dog with a firm hand, then you should get rid of it.

Answer 2

They're actually a cur dog, but that's a different discussion, lol. Even most breeders will tell you that. But anywho..... I personally love the CLD, always have. For the jumping, keep doing what you're doing. A knee to their chest and then ignoring until they're calm is about the best way to go about this. There are other methods, but I like this one. For the biting, I have a question? What was the point of holding onto his collar? That was probably either irritating him more, or making him think you wanted to play. Either way, holding his collar is about pointless in this case. Here's what I do with Gibbs (8 month old Boxer/American Bulldog mix): When he bites, I grab his muzzle (NOT hard, just enough to keep it shut), give a firm "no bite" and then put him in a "time out" area (which is an extra room we're not using that has nothing in it). A "time out" area should be an area where the dog can't get themselves into anymore trouble, away from the main area of the home, etc... be it a spare bedroom, a closet with a baby gate, etc... And then Gibbs is not allowed back out into the area until he's calm and quiet. He's not allowed to come back out if he's running around acting crazy, jumping up at the gates (I have two baby gates stacked one on top of the other because he can jump just one), excited, barking, whining, etc.... ONLY when he is calm and quiet do I allow him back into the area. Usually around 5-10 minutes. I do this every single time he bites, nips or mouths any person. I expect the people in my home (aside from my kids who are 4, 2 and 1 and can't take the dog TO that area yet) to do the same with him. If biting of this caliber "scares you" (because it sounds like this is PLAY biting, which is normal in puppies by the way, which he still is), then you shouldn't have gotten a large stubborn breed, in my opinion. This biting is by far nothing to be scared of, but DOES need to be corrected. He was probably done playing in the scenario you mentioned because you had yet to let go of his collar, and he was on his back. Whether or not he rolled himself over, it's a sign of submission in the dog world. The fact that you were still holding onto his collar after he submitted to you, probably didn't make him feel all that comfortable, therefore he paws at you and bites at you. The pawing at you along with the biting though, makes it sound like he really WAS playing. You've only had him 4 days, so you can't be 100% positive that you know the difference between his playing and not playing yet.

Answer 3

My last pup in training was a black Lab. If she could smell food then she would find it!
......Make sure that NO food is left on your surfaces......Fill an old drink can or small bottle with a few pebbles, next time he jumps up, sake it once HARD. This should be a big enough surprise to deter him. Repeat a few times and he'll soon get it ...OR....set a trap.Put a few metal pots & pans on the edge of the surface, when he jumps up the noise will surprise him.

As for the "biting". Make sure when you give him attention, you have a toy that you can put into his mouth instead of your hand. He'll learn quickly.

Answer 4

Jumping: Labs feed on attention. Tell him no, push him down, ignore him for awhile. Repeat everytime, he can never get away with it.

Biting: Act hurt-he knows biting other dogs that hard is ok, but needs to learn that no amount of people biting is ok. Again, pull away completely. Come back a few minutes later with a toy and play with him that way. Repeat everytime-never let him get away with it.

Answer 5

Leash training is the best answer. Ignoring your dogs bad behavior will give you the same results as if you ignore your childs bad behavior. Put a stop to it before something irreversable happens. Do not minimize your responsibility by ignoring the dog. Put a leash on it and when he jumps give corrective commands, biting should be immediately corrected!!!!!!!!!!

Answer 6

It might seem a bit harsh, but the training I take my dog to recommends a spray bottle with salty water in it. Just spray at the dog when he does any of this unwanted behaviour.
They absolutely hate it, but obviously it doesn't hurt them.
I'm a bit of a softy and don't actually put the salt in. My dog only has to see the spray bottle and he stops whatever it is he shouldn't be doing (usually trying to eat the cat).
There's someone else on answers who may be able to help you with the biting issue. She gave me some wonderful advice when I had the same worry with my 2 year old collie. She suggested that I make the physical play time a set thing every day - you dictate when it starts and when it stops. Outside of your chosen time, ignore him if he wants to instigate it himself.

Good luck!

Answer 7

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Answer 8

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Answer 9

Yes the best method is to ignore.Is rather hard to do.I got a 5 month old Akita puppy.And still only young he could still knock you over.So when he is fully grown and double weight he is now i cant imagine trying to get home and in through the door without getting trampled on.So gave the ignoring thing a go.It takes a while.But it works.Remember you reward your dog.Not the other way around.So when he sees you he is jumping on you to reward you.So let him calm down.Then give him a pat on the head.

Answer 10

Your dog is showing agression here are some solutions for you:
What You Can Do
First check with your veterinarian to rule out medical causes for the aggressive behavior.
Seek professional help. An aggression problem will not go away by itself. Working with aggression problems requires in-home help from an animal behavior specialist.
Take precautions. Your first priority is to keep everyone safe. Supervise, confine and/or restrict your dog's activities until you can obtain professional help. You're liable for your dog's behavior. If you must take your dog out in public, consider a cage-type muzzle as a temporary precaution, and keep in mind that some dogs can get a muzzle off.
Avoid exposing your dog to situations where he is more likely to show aggression. You may need to keep him confined to a safe room and limit his people-contact.
If your dog is possessive of food, treats or a certain place, don't allow him access to those items. In an emergency, bribe him with something better than what he has. For example, if he steals your shoe, trade him the shoe for a piece of chicken.
Spay or neuter your dog. Intact dogs are more likely to display dominance, territorial and protective aggressive behavior.
What Not To Do
Punishment won't help and, in fact, will make the problem worse. If the aggression is motivated by fear, punishment will make your dog more fearful, and therefore more aggressive. Attempting to punish or dominate a dominantly aggressive dog is likely to cause him to escalate his behavior in order to retain his dominant position. This is likely to result in a bite or a severe attack. Punishing territorial, possessive or protective aggression is likely to elicit additional defensive aggression.
Don't encourage aggressive behavior. Playing tug-of-war or wrestling games encourages your dog to attempt to "best" you or "win" over you, which can result in the beginning of a dominance aggression problem. When dogs are encouraged to "go get 'em" or to bark and dash about in response to outside noises or at the approach of a person, territorial and protective aggressive behavior may be the result.