Cat peeing on carpet and clothes...?

Question

Has anyone ever used " Dumb Cat" anti marking/spray? Does it work?

Answer 1

Cats tend to have surface and location preferences for where, and on what, they like to eliminate. Most cats prefer a loose, sandy substance, which is why they will use a litter box. It's only when their preferences include the laundry basket, the bed or the Persian rug, that normal elimination behavior becomes a problem. With careful analysis of your cat's environment, specific factors that have contributed to the litter box problem can usually be identified and changed, so that your cat will again use the litter box for elimination.

Some common reasons why cats don't use the litter box are: an aversion to the box, a preference for a particular surface not provided by the box, a preference for a particular location where there is no box, or a combination of all three. You'll need to do some detective work to determine the reason your cat is house soiling. Sometimes, the reason the litter box problem initially started may not be the same reason it's continuing. For example, your cat may have stopped using the litter box because of a urinary tract infection, and has now developed a surface preference for carpet and a location preference for the bedroom closet. You would need to address all three of these factors in order to resolve the problem.

Cats don't stop using their litter boxes because they're mad or upset and are trying to get revenge for something that "offended" or "angered" them. Because humans act for these reasons, it's easy for us to assume that our pets do as well. Animals don't act out of spite or revenge, so it won't help to give your cat special privileges in the hope that she'll start using the litter box again.

Has your pet left "scent marks" of urination and/or defecation on your floor or furniture? To successfully re-train your pet to avoid those areas, follow these basic steps:

Find all soiled areas using your nose and eyes. A black-light bulb will usually show even old urine stains. Turn out all lights in the room; use the black-light to identify soiled areas and lightly outline the areas with chalk.
Clean the soiled areas appropriately to remove the odors (see below).
Make the areas unattractive and/or unavailable (see our handouts on dog and cat aversives).
Make the appropriate "bathroom" area attractive (see our handouts regarding positive reinforcement, house soiling and/or litter box issues).
Teach your pet the appropriate place to eliminate by using positive reinforcement (see our handouts mentioned above).
These steps work as a team! In order for your efforts to be successful, you need to follow all of these steps. If you fail to completely clean the area, your other re-training efforts will be useless. As long as your pet can smell that personal scent, he'll continue to return to the "accident zone." Even if you can't smell traces of urine, your pet can. Your most important chore is to remove (neutralize) that odor.

Methods To Avoid
You should avoid using steam cleaners to clean urine odors from carpet or upholstery. The heat will permanently set the odor and the stain by bonding the protein into any man-made fibers. You should also avoid using cleaning chemicals, especially those with strong odors, such as ammonia or vinegar. From your pet's perspective, and may actually encourage your pet's inclination to reinforce the urine scent mark in that area.

To Clean Washable Items
Machine wash as usual, adding a one pound box of baking soda to your regular detergent. If possible, it's best to air dry these items.
If you can still see the stain or smell the urine, machine wash the item again and add an enzymatic cleaner. Be sure to follow the directions carefully.
During the re-training period, a good way to discourage your pet from using the bedding is to cover the bed with a vinyl, flannel-backed tablecloth. They're machine washable, inexpensive, and unattractive to your pet.
To Clean Carpeted Areas and Upholstery
Soak up as much of the urine as possible with a combination of newspaper and paper towels. The more fresh urine you can remove before it dries, especially from carpet, the simpler it will be to remove the odor. Place a thick layer of paper towels on the wet spot and cover that with a thick layer of newspaper. Stand on this padding for about a minute. Remove the padding and repeat the process until the area is barely damp.
If possible, take the fresh, urine-soaked paper towel to the area where it belongs -- your cat's litterbox or your dog's designated outdoor "bathroom area" -- and let your pet see you do it. Don't act angry when you do this, but try to project a "happy" attitude to your pet. This will help to remind your pet that eliminating isn't a "bad" behavior as long as it's done in the right place.
Rinse the "accident zone" thoroughly with clean, cool water. After rinsing, remove as much of the water as possible by blotting or by using a "wet-vac," "shop-vac" or "extractor."
If you've previously used cleaners or chemicals of any kind on the area, then neutralizing cleaners won't be effective until you've rinsed every trace of the old cleaner from the carpet. Even if you haven't used chemicals recently, any trace of a non-protein-based substance will weaken the effect of the enzymatic cleaner. The cleaner will use up its "energy" on the old cleaners instead of on the protein stains you want removed.
To remove all traces of old chemicals and clean old or heavy stains in carpeting, consider renting an extractor or wet-vac from a local hardware store. This machine operates much like a vacuum cleaner and is efficient and economical. Extracting/wet-vac machines do the best job of forcing clean water through your carpet and then forcing the dirty water back out again. When using these machines or cleaners, be sure to follow the instructions carefully. Don't use any chemicals with these machines – they work much more effectively with plain water.
Once the area is really clean, you should use a high-quality pet odor neutralizer available at pet supply stores. Test the affected surface for staining first, and read and follow the instructions.
If the area still looks stained after it's completely dry from extracting and neutralizing, try any good carpet stain remover.
If urine has soaked down into the padding underneath your carpet, your job will be more difficult. You may need to remove and replace that portion of the carpet and padding.
Using the suggestions in our dog and cat aversives, positive reinforcement and housetraining handouts, make the "accident zone" unattractive, the appropriate "bathroom" area attractive, and teach your pet where you want him to eliminate, instead. The re-training period may take a week or more. Remember, it took time to build the bad habit, and it will take time to replace that habit with a new, more acceptable behavior. Treat your pet with patience and give him a lot of encouragement!
To Clean Floors and Walls
If the wood on your furniture, walls, baseboard or floor is discolored, the varnish or paint has been affected by the acid in the urine. You may need to remove and replace the layer of varnish or paint. Employees at your local hardware or building supply store can help you identify and match your needs with appropriate removers and replacements. Washable enamel paints and some washable wallpapers, may respond favorably to enzymatic cleaners. Read the instructions carefully before using these products and test them in an invisible area.

Answer 2

Last year my beautiful Manx cat Theodore went out for the evening and never came back. I love cats and the house didn't feel the same without one, so I picked up Lola from a rescue centre. She was very frightened and would pee all over the house. I found Cat Spraying No More� on the internet and the techniques worked almost immediately. I haven't had a problem with Lola since. Amazing!

Can't stop your cat peeing in the house? Then worry no more...

Answer 3

properly the reason the cats keep peeing there is because they could scent the ammonia from the pee there. it truly is maximum suitable to apply vinegar to sparkling it up with. try putting somewhat vinegar on the stain before you position the garments into the laundry. and examine out putting some on the carpet and scrubbing it up with a towel or something. Then pitch the towel. i wish this allows. If it occurs back try blending up 4 parts water, a million section vinegar in a twig bottle and start up spraying the cats once you capture them then spray the spot correct then and there. P.S. The vinegar wont damage the cats.

Answer 4

I have never heard of it. If it really does exist, I would be unsure about using it because your cat may be spraying/marking because there is something medically wrong, see the vet. Also, it might be time for its operation-neuter/fix.

Answer 5

You need to take your cat to the vet to outrule a medical problem. Inappropriate elimination is a sign of a bladder or urinary tract infection. If it is NOT medical, you can than ask the vet for help in solving this behavioral problem.

Answer 6

Is your cat fixed?? That could be the problem.

Answer 7

No never I use something cheaper- citrus it makes to cats stay away and your stuff smell lemony or limey!

Answer 8

never used it. your cat is marking its territory. yo belong to your cat and (s)he is telling all other cats to stay away