How do you remove brake disk of 1996 honda?

Question

HOW DO YOU REMOVE THE ROTOR (DISK) OF 1996 HONDA ACCORD XL, 4 DOOR. 4 CYLINDER..
I HAD A VERY HARD TIME REMOVING THE 2 CALIPER BOLTS, WHY ARE THEY TIGHTER THAN OTHER CARS?

Answer 1

the car is old, the bolts are rusted. it will take alot of force to get it out. try to get someone very strong or go buy a air gun. those works perfect. to get out the rotor, there are two holes on teh rotor where you put bolts on and you tighten one to push out the rotor.

Answer 2

If equipped with an air bag, disconnect the negative battery cable and properly disable the Supplemental Restraint System (SRS), as detailed in Chassis Electrical .
Loosen the lug nuts, then raise and support the vehicle safely.
Remove the wheel.
As required, separate the brake hose clamp from the strut or knuckle by removing the retaining bolts.
Remove the lower caliper retaining bolt and pivot the caliper upward, off the pads.
Remove the lower caliper retaining bolt ...
and pivot the caliper upward, off the pads
remove the pads, shims and pad retainers.
Remove the pads, shims ...
and pad retainers
clean the caliper thoroughly; remove any rust from the lip of the disc or rotor. Check the brake rotor for grooves or cracks. If any heavy scoring is present, the rotor must be replaced.
Install the pad retainers. Apply a brake-quiet compound (available at most auto parts strores) to both surfaces of the shims and the back of the disc brake pads. Do not get the compound on the braking surface of the pad.
Install the pads and shims. The pad with the wear indicator goes in the inboard position.
Push in the caliper piston so the caliper will fit over the pads. This is most easily accomplished with a large C-clamp. As the piston is forced back into the caliper, fluid will be forced back into the master cylinder reservoir. It may be necessary to siphon some fluid out to prevent overflowing.
Pivot the caliper down into position and tighten the mounting bolt to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
Connect the brake hose to the strut or knuckle, if removed. Install the wheel and lower the vehicle to the ground.
Check the master cylinder and add fluid as required, then install the master cylinder cover.
Depress the brake pedal several times and make sure that the movement feels normal. The first brake pedal application may result in a very "long" pedal due to the pistons being retracted. Always make several brake applications before starting the vehicle. Bleeding is not usually necessary after pad replacement.
Braking should be moderate for the first 5 miles or so until the new pads seat correctly. The new pads will bed best if put through several moderate heating and cooling cycles. Avoid hard braking until the brakes have experienced several long, slow stops with time to cool in between. Taking the time to properly bed the brakes will yield quieter operation, more efficient stopping and contribute to extended brake life.
If equipped, enable the SRS system and connect the negative battery cable.

Answer 3

The last Accord I worked on was older, but, probably not much different. I needed a large slide hammer to pull the hubs out of the bearings in order to remove the disc. Regarding the caliphers are you sure you are removing them properly, it sounds as though you are removing the calipher mounts which is not necessary.