I have a dog problem.?

Question

my dog cries alot and whine whenever i leave to get the mail or leave a room. When u talk to him he acts like he is gettin beatin. I gurantee that dog has never been beatin of yelled at. I got him when he was 2 weeks old. He was taken away from his mother too early. The people that i got him from had too many dogs. 2 weeks after he was born another dog they had, had pups so he was put outside. One week after i got him his sister died.(they were out in the cold) He had no sink on his tail (now he has some)
So why do yall thimk he cries and whines alot?

My dog turned a yr old in december. He ist in front of the batinroom door when im in there adn cries

My dog turned a yr old in december. He ist in front of the bathroom door when im in there and cries

My mom has a dog and he is the opposite

Answer 1

If you're dog is 1 year, it well over being taken away from the mom too young. It sounds like you're dog has a case of seperation anxiety.

What to Do If Your Dog Has Separation Anxiety
For a minor separation anxiety problem, the following techniques may be helpful by themselves. For more severe problems, these techniques should be used along with the desensitization process described in the next section.

Keep arrivals and departures low-key. For example, when you arrive home, ignore your dog for the first few minutes, then calmly pet him. This may be hard for you to do, but it's important!
Leave your dog with an article of clothing that smells like you—such as an old t-shirt that you've slept in recently.
Establish a "safety cue"—a word or action that you use every time you leave that tells your dog you'll be back. Dogs usually learn to associate certain cues with short absences by their owners. For example, when you take out the garbage, your dog knows you come right back and doesn't become anxious. Therefore, it's helpful to associate a safety cue with your short-duration absences.
Some examples of safety cues are a playing radio, a playing television, or a toy (one that doesn't have dangerous fillings and can't be torn into pieces). Use your safety cue during practice sessions with your dog. Be sure to avoid presenting your dog with the safety cue when you leave for a period of time longer than he can tolerate; if you do, the value of the safety cue will be lost. Leaving a radio on to provide company for your dog isn't particularly useful by itself, but a playing radio may work if you've used it consistently as a safety cue in your practice sessions. If your dog engages in destructive chewing as part of his separation distress, offering him a chewing item as a safety cue is a good idea. Very hard rubber toys that can be stuffed with treats and Nylabone®-like products are good choices.

Desensitization Techniques for More Severe Cases of Separation Anxiety

The primary treatment for more severe cases of separation anxiety is a systematic process of getting your dog used to being alone. You must teach your dog to remain calm during "practice" departures and short absences. We recommend the following procedure:

Begin by engaging in your normal departure activities (getting your keys, putting on your coat), then sit back down. Repeat this step until your dog shows no distress in response to your activities.
Next, engage in your normal departure activities and go to the door and open it, then sit back down.
Next, step outside the door, leaving the door open, then return.
Finally, step outside, close the door, then immediately return. Slowly get your dog accustomed to being alone with the door closed between you for several seconds.
Proceed very gradually from step to step, repeating each step until your dog shows no signs of distress. The number of repetitions will vary depending on the severity of the problem. If at any time in this process your actions produce an anxiety response in your dog, you've proceeded too fast. Return to an earlier step in the process and practice this step until the dog shows no distress response, then proceed to the next step.
Once your dog is tolerating your being on the other side of the door for several seconds, begin short-duration absences. This step involves giving the dog a verbal cue (for example, "I'll be back"), leaving, and then returning within a minute. Your return must be low-key: Either ignore your dog or greet him quietly and calmly. If he shows no signs of distress, repeat the exercise. If he appears anxious, wait until he relaxes to repeat the exercise. Gradually increase the length of time you're gone.
Practice as many absences as possible that last less than ten minutes. You can do many departures within one session if your dog relaxes sufficiently between departures. You should also scatter practice departures and short-duration absences throughout the day.
Once your dog can handle short absences (30 to 90 minutes), he'll usually be able to handle longer intervals alone and you won't have to repeat this process every time you are planning a longer absence. The hard part is at the beginning, but the job gets easier as you go along. Nevertheless, you must go slowly at first. How long it takes to condition your dog to being alone depends on the severity of his problem.


Cesar Millan, who is on the show "Dog Whispher" deals with a lot of cases like this. try catching a show if you can.

Answer 2

WOW a lot of questions! I'll tackle the first one. And it would help to know how old he is.:) 1 -You might need to get him checked by the vet. If he has a urinary tract infection then he won't be able to help it and all teh training and suggestions in the world won't change a thing. 2 -Lose the pee pads. This is a sure fire way to CONFUSE your dog because what they learn is that it is ok to pee inside. They do not udnerstand that there is something magical about the pee pads that makes it ok. 3 - Take him outdoors often so he has the chance to pee outside. When he does, praise him in a happy voice and maybe even give him a treat. If you can take the paper / throw rug / whatever that he peed on in the house and put it where you want him to go outside that will go a long way in teaching him to go outdoors. 4 - Do not leave him unsupervised in the house. Keep an eye on him at all times and if you see him sniffing like he is about to "go" get him outside. Play with him a little too, otherwise he will get the idea that he is being punished for peeing and / or peeing outside and that it the last thing you want. 5 - Never ever scold him for peeing indoors. If you do all that will happen is he will figure out it's a bad idea for you to see him peeing and then he won't pee outdoors when you go on walks. He'll also get good at being sneaky about peeing indoors so he can avoid the punishment. 6 - Be patient. Now that he has the bad habit, changing it won't happen overnight. Dogs don't suddenly "get it" and then act perfect. Instead what will happen is that there will be fewer and fewer accidents and he'll get it right more and more often until finally he'll be housebroken. It could take about two months. Be patient and consistent and good luck!

Answer 3

He is very attached to you and feels abandonded when you are not near. Two weeks old, you should feel lucky that dog is alive. I would offer it assurance that you care for it. It is a very submissive dog due to the seperation issue, that is why it is cowering. It's very sad for this guy,please don't use loud aggressive voices around him,and assure him he is safe. Does he have a favorite spot to lay down that is all his? When you provide a spot that has coverage that when the dog is there,there is a solid object behind and up/over the dog's head. They feel safe when people/objects can't come up behind them in their resting stage,startling him,or not providing protection from the elements. Has he had all his shots? Does he actively play otherwise? Does he chew on his tail,is that why no hair? Is he gaining weight properly? I think you need to provide noise(leave a radio or the t.v. on when you go to work)that mimics you being home,and try a stuffed toy designed for dogs. He may cuddle it,pretending it to be a pup or play friend,and giving his mind something to think about besides the long hours of waiting. Good luck,don't give up on him.

Answer 4

Oh, this isn't a problem - he just loves you! The best thing for him is to try not to give him attention when he is begging/whining/pouting. It is much like a child when they cry all the time to be held: if you just let them cry sometimes they will learn that they need to have a little independence. It seems mean at first however it is the best thing for the dog. You don't want a dog to be barking and etc whenever you leave - I bet that is very annoying. So, ignore him when he is barking. He is just trying to get attention. It will take a few days or even a few weeks before he stops however this method always works. Plus, you can try to give him a toy when you leave. That way, he will be distracted while you are gone. Don't worry though, he is fine. :) Good Luck!

Answer 5

"Dog expert" does not know what she's talking about. I wanna know where she got her expertise from. The dog has been through a lot it seems, but by no means should you "coddle" the dog like you would a crying baby. The more you show attention to her while she whines (whether comforting her or even negative attention like yelling "no!") you are STILL showing attention and it makes her feel like what she's doing is a good behavior. When the dog is calm, show affection, give treats, but the moment she whines or barks, ignore her and the more you do this, the clearer the picture will become to her that being calm gets praise and attention and whining does not.

Answer 6

Is this a new dog? Because it sounds like he just doesn't trust you yet, which is the fault of his previous owner. You have to think of it like this. From what you've described, bad things are all he knows. Now it's your job to show him good things. It's your job to show him love and affection and to earn his trust.

He needs to feel safe around you. One way you can earn his trust it by rewarding him for being brave. Sit on the floor away from him with a treat. He will want the treat but will be hesitant to come get it from you. Set it out where he can see it, and just wait until he comes. The first time, don't try to touch him or pet him if he won't let you. You don't want to scare him off the first time because he'll get hip to your plan. See if you can get him to come to you four or five times, and then repeat it again the next day. He will eventually learn to trust you, as long as you keep showing him nothing but love and affection. Do not let this get you frustrated, because he will pick up on frustration and anger far easier than he'll ever pick up on comfort and love.

Good luck.

Answer 7

At such an early age dogs can be imprinted with pretty much what ever behavior you would want them to have. If he whines and cries then it is because you have taught him to. Not on purpose I'm sure but your behavior and the behavior of the people in his life have taught him to act this way. It will be up to you to determine what behavior of yours treats the dog like a baby and not like dog. It can be corrected over time but you will have to convince yourself to change your behavior first then his will follow
Good Luck

Answer 8

Regardless of how old the pup was when it was taken from its mother means nothing at this point. The dog is over a year old. Dogs don't live in the past, they live in the now. Therefore, the only thing making him act like this are his present living conditions! By giving him affection at the times he whines and cries is to nurture those unwanted behaviors by mentally telling him that it's "okay to act that way". However, on the other hand, ignoring it does nothing to correct the problem, just lets it be. Basically you have to teach the dog that the behavior is unacceptable. Dogs need stability in their lives. And part of having a stable life is to have rules and limitations. Rules and limitations are set in place by discipline. If the dog starts to exert uneasy behavior, be it pacing back and forth or panting heavily, he's getting uneasy. If this happens, you need to snap him out of whatever trans he might be getting into. Give him a touch on the neck to redirect his attention and give him an assertive "sshhtt!" or "no!" - whichever you find works best for him. If he doesn't sit when this is done, make him. If he starts to whine, he's protesting. Another touch and corrective noise will redirect him again and calm him down. As for leaving for long periods of time, be it for work or a night out, be sure that he is taken for a decent walk, with you as the leader! He needs to know that you are in charge of the relationship that the two of you have together. You should be the first to leave, followed by him, and during your walk, he should always be beside you or behind you, Never in front of you, and stopping only when you decide you want to stop. These walks should be done without him being distracted by anything else, be it people walking by, or dogs barking at a neighbors house. If he perks his ears in attention, or starts to get excited, give him a quick but firm tug on the leash to redirect his attention. It may be a good practice to just make him sit and let the people walk by or the dogs bark, not letting him focus his attention on any of it. When he's able to sit there in a calm and submissive state, reward him with a scratch on the neck and continue with your walk. When this is done, it drains him of certain energies and makes his behaviors easier to correct. Once home, practice putting on and taking off your coat, picking up and putting down your keys, and opening and closing the door. Chances are when these things happen, he'll immediately get up and go to you, expecting you to leave. The second he does this is when you need to correct him, for this is the beginning stage of his whining. Calmly and assertively, touch him to redirect his attention away from you leaving and make him sit or lay until he has reversed his mind back into a submissive state. Ears back, breathing calm. Repeat this process until you can pick up your keys, put on your coat, and open and close the door without him getting excited or preferably, even caring. Once this step is accomplished, it's time to go outside. Leave the house for 30 seconds. When you come back, if he is at the door whining, redirect his attention, make him sit and wait until he is calm again. Repeat. The Only time you should show him affection after your return into the house is when he is able to stay in a calm and submissive state of mind, but don't do this directly after you've walked in! Try to ignore him at first, not even making eye contact, walk into the living room and sit down. If he tries to come to you and demand attention, redirect his state of mind and give him attention when You see fit, which should be when he is back into a submissive state. Affection is best shown by a massage of the neck and back, not by words or treats. If you show him affection upon your return when he is whining or in anything other than a calm state of mind, you are only assuring him that his behavior is acceptable. The three things that make a dogs life happy and healthy, both physically and mentally, are proper walks, proper affection at the right times, when he is displaying calm and submissive behavior, and proper discipline when he is showing behaviors that are unacceptable. Not only will that make him happy and healthy, but it will also make him stable and secure. Knowing that he has rules and limitations and knowing what behaviors he needs to display in order to make you happy. Good Luck!

Answer 9

I have a 5 month old puppy that i had to get at 3 weeks or they were going to put him to sleep. He went everywhere with me for about 3 months and now he sleeps in his crate beside my bed. It seems like he is really sensitive and if I say no, he acts like I hit him (which I promise I never have). I have just been giving him lots of love and attention and training. Good luck too you

Answer 10

I think it is because he was taken away from mommy too soon. It sounds like the people you got the dog from, are very unkind. Bless your heart for taking this doggy in. He is probably insecure and afraid that you might leave him. Give him some time. I bet he will be okay. Play with him a lot. Give him a lot of toys and take him for a lot of walks. Good luck to you and your doggy.

Answer 11

You answered your question yourself, He was taken away from his mother WAY too early, he never got a chance to socialize with the other pups in his litter and he is a victim of a puppy mill. The breeder should have all of her dogs removed from her, it is obvious he/she does not know what they are doing!
How old is your dog now?