Kitchen Cabinets?

Question

I have a 50+ year old house. In the kitchen I have the original cabinets on the wall, that are solid oak. The cabinets are showing their age. Some of the joints are seperating. I am a handiman by choice. My question is this, has anyone ever sucsessfully removed wall cabinets, reglued the joints, refinised (we're thinking a painted enamel surface) and rehung them. Please no smart butt answers. I already know I can have them refaced or replaced.

Answer 1

Robert, I see no reason why you can't do it. Just a few comments. Solid wood was used 50+ years ago because plywood wasn't yet accepted as an industry standard (depending on how old the house really is, plywood may not have even be available yet). We now know that plywood is far better for endurance, stability, less cracking and splitting, and far less weight (It has now become the industry standard for cabinets in areas like baths and kitchens where humidity can change frequently). I suspect the cracks in joints are caused by the glue finally drying to brittle state and losing its flexibility. So, if you're going to remove them and re-glue, you'd be better off to re-glue all the joints, less another joint splits six months from now. Better yet, you could try to use something else, like pocket screws or some other joining method for the joints to accomodate wood movement.

I've rehung several cabinets, and it's not that difficult. Especially if wood repair isn't an issue. If you do wish to separate all the joints, be careful to avoid splitting or damaging the wood, as opposed to liberating the joints. If you're trying to maintain the ambience of the house, it's worth it to refinish the cabinets. As far as painting, just consider whether or not you're trying to maintin the original appearance. Nothing wrong with painting, but for many woodworkers, painting oak is painful. Nowadays, oak is not painted on cabinets, furniture, etc. to show a particular choice (and price) was purposely chosen. At the same time, oak paints well and you should be free to decide. I have also built new cabinets (using combination of plywood and solids) and kept the oak for future projects.
The bottom line, it's not at all difficult for anyone possessing average handyman skills. I'm sure you can handle it - good luck

Answer 2

What I will suggest is to use an oil base cover coat over an oil based primer. If the wood grain is to be exposed maybe shellac or varnish or an oil based stain. As has been said, any good automotive finish will do too, these can be a bit spendy though. In any case, do not forget to sand between coats. Might even give consideration to using a two part epoxy. I also think it advisable to ask your coatings supplier if there have been any changes in their recipe. This could have a dramatic effect on surface longevity as well as surface preparation demands. Whatever you use try to stay away from the water soluble coatings, these rarely last in high humidity settings. In my personal opinion the only thing a water based coating has going for it is ease of clean up and curing time and nothing more. I am a firm believer in solvent based and epoxy coatings except where kids and animals can easily get into it such as toys, crib parts, table legs and low level cabinet doors and drawers (they chew on things). A final consideration: Humidity attacks from both sides of a door or what-have-you so applying a sealer to the back and the edges of a door will help to keep that covering solidly in place. A light coat of shellac will do this just fine, be sure the stuff penetrates to a reasonable depth. If you decide on epoxies, when it comes time to refinish, all that needs to be done is to scruff up the surface and slap on another coat of whatever to be used. [If using water base then use first a good PVA primer.] Easier than breathing, it'll make the day worth waking up for. To remove the epoxy? Might want to use a particle mask, sanding machines make dust.

Answer 3

A sawzal and Patience might work wonders. What happens if you break any part of the face or frame? Can you replace it, probably, but not match it. Those cabinets probably where built in place. They were installed one piece at a time. If you are going to paint them why not fill in the spaces, sand the nicks and scratches, paint and be done with it?
Use some wood filler made by Bondo for repairs, or as I do, just use car body Bondo. It will sand, won't shrink, will hold paint, will stain. You will turn a 60 hours job into a 20 hour job. Then you will have time to be a handyman with a happy wife.

Answer 4

It can be done. You have to get the cabinets down from the wall safely then the refinish work could be most easy. Set up a work station in your garage and have at it. You might want to try doing a door first just to see how easy/hard it may be. Regluing joints is easy as long as you have big enoug clamps to apply pressure with. I would do it.

Answer 5

Strip down the cabinets before putting them up. Usually the cabinets will come already installed with the drawers and doors attached. It might seem counterproductive to take them off, but it will make the cabinets lighter, easier to handle and more available to screw together. Just make sure that to mark every drawer and door to match the original cabinet it was attached to.

Answer 6

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Answer 7

You might take the doors to a place that refinishes furniture. They can put them in a chemical bath that will completely strip the finish & glue.

Answer 8

First WHY would you paint solid oak? We have taken them down with success....I would try unscrewing them to take them down. Then use liquid nail & clamps....If they are nailed in... you have a problem.....