How do I make handload performance more consistent?

Question

I load for a .22-250 using Hornady 50 grain Vmax bullets. Sometimes my two 'working' loads shoot into one hole. Sometimes they won't shoot into an inch with everything the same. How do I get more consistency out of them?

I'm getting great answers so far but allow me to add some details. The rifle is a Remington 700 heavy barrel. I weigh every charge because the powder drop varies some. I neck size until the brass won't chamber then use a full length die set to 'bump' the shoulders just a bit. I use a competition seatiing die and a Stoney Point Comparator to seat with. The lengths don't vary by more than .001" or less. Most every cartridge is measured. I trim brass to the same length but leave it long from the trim to length so there will be more neck for the bullet to seat into. Haven't chronographed anything yet but that's next on my list. I have since found out the rifle isn't free floating. It seems to be 'tip' bedded. I understand this can make it shoot a little inconsistant. Anybody have an opinion about this?

Answer 1

A year or so back I was reading an article in a varmint hunting magazine about reloading.
The author of the article ask his Grandfather a 50 year veteran of reloading one question.
What is the difference in a good hand load and a great hand load ?
The Grandfather did not miss a beat, he answered the question in one word. “Hours”

He is right, and what he described I had to learn the hard way over many years.
1= you rework each peace of in the following manner.
a= do a full resize to each peace of brass before you start reworking it.
b= trim each peace of brass to the “exact” same length.
c= re-cut each primer pocket to the a uniformed depth. (there is a cheap tool for that)
d= deburr the powder side edge of the flash hole. (there is a cheap tool for that)
e= cut the case neck to a uniformed thickness, it’s called neck turning, “do not use a reamer”
(There is a tool for that but it is no so cheap but is worth it in every way.)
At this point the brass is finished, the only process that you have to repeat is every 5 to 10 shot you may have to recut the case length for it will stretch.

Now on to the reloading process.
1= hand weigh each powder charge to make sure they are the exact same grain weight.
I use a powder trickler to match up my powder charge, powder measures are good to get you close then trickler it up to true weight.
Start with the lowest powder charge listed and move up in ½ grain increments un till you find the powder charge your gun likes, most rifles don’t shoot hot loads accurately and do not exceed the maximum recommended load listed in your reloading manual.
2= I use only CCI bench rest primers they are matched primers and cost 1 cent more per primer CCI BR2 is the large primer CCI BR4 is the small primer.
3= pick the bullet your gun likes the best, try several brands and weights till you see one that works well. The 22.250 I load for does not like any below 52 grains and cuts 1 hole groups all day long with the Nosler 55 grain Ballistic Tip, that gun does not shoot Hornady with any type of consistency.
The rate of twist used in rifling plays a big factor in the bullet weight each rifle likes.
4= once you find a load formula that works as in powder, bullet, primer don’t change it at all.
5= if you shoot a bolt action or single shot try to neck size only on the brass in stead of a full resize, pumps, semi autos and lever actions 99% of the time need a full resize on the brass.
This process is about 90% of what the bench rest competitor shooters use to reload for matches,
They just rework the brass a little bit more.

I have attached a link that will explain many of the process described you may wont to read.
Look at these categories in the link for sure,

FLASH HOLE BURR
NECK TURNING FOR FACTORY-CHAMBERED RIFLES

http://www.varmintal.com/arelo.htm
This is how I reload, I Hope this helps out
D58

Answer 2

Bound's hubby here:

There are many factors that go into "consistent" performance and accuracy. You fail to identify the type of rifle you are shooting, but if it is a typical hunting rifle without a bull barrel, this maybe a good portion of your problem!

I load .223 Remington, .308 Winchester, .30-06, and .45-70 (yes, .45-70!) for maximum performance and accuracy. Except for the Blackpowder loads, I use an electronic scale with linked powder dispenser for throwing my charges. I use RCBS Competition dies for centering and seating my bullets. I use only matchgrade bullets. My .308s have the greatest accuracy demand ... 1 MOA or less at 1000 yards.

Some factors you need to consider:
a) Heavy barrel?
b) Chronographed velocity with standard deviation?
c) Consistent bullet seating depth?
d) Are powder, primer and bullets from the same lot?
e) Environmental (Temp, Baro Pressure, and Humidity) consistent?

When all of these factors are replicated and consistent ... and accuracy still suffers, look to your barrel for throat erosion and muzzle erosion. Also, how many rounds have gone through the barrel? If you have fired between 4000 and 5000 rounds through the barrel, you may have exceeded the barrel's life expectancy!

Good luck!

Answer 3

Be sure sizing and seating die are free from debris. I use a powder trickler and weigh each load. Make sure all components(case,primer,powder,bullet) are identical. Check the case length and primer flash hole for burrs and consistent size. Verify scope is mounted properly and parallax is not a problem. If shooting for groups at different distances parallax may be and issue. Trigger pull inconsistancy can cause larger groups. Debris and burnt powder buildup in the chamber can cause pressure variances. Humidity or temperature can cause wood stock to touch barrel. In a bolt action cases can be fire formed and neck resized only to better taylor them to the gun. Using a bore snake can prevent damage to barrel interior and prolong the life of the barrel. A review of the reloading manual might offer a solution. Sounds like you have been doing a fine job reloading, to get the accuracy you speak of.

Answer 4

You didn't mention a chronograph. If you aren't measuring standard deviations of ten-shot groups, you aren't really handloading these days. If your pet loads have a spread of, say, 25 fps, then it ain't the load that's the problem. You don't need a top-of-the-line Ohler, but you have to be shooting over a chrony to know what's what, and you can get one for under a hundred bucks and do the math yourself if you're on a tight budget. I don't shoot 22's much, using a 6mm for little stuff that's not picky about its loads, so I rarely have to go to weighing my brass and all that, but I know which loads shoot consistently just by clocking them. My accuracy loads are consistent, so I can look at the rifle (or more commonly look in the mirror!) for the problem if I see my groups spread.

Answer 5

I avoid this by using the same components load to load. For instance, I use Star Line brass, CCI primers, WW231, and a Hornady bullet for a particular load. I have noticed that if I change any one of the components, different impacts or velocity result. I also make sure my reloader (a Dillon 550B) dies are tight and have not moved out of adjustment. Lastly, I frequently check my new round for proper length.

Answer 6

There is a great deal of very good information already given so I won't rehash any of that. But I didn't see anyone mention one very important factor.

Weigh your cases!

Cases with different weights will have slightly different capacity and even if your powder is very consistently measured you will have inconsistent velocities if you cases are not very, very close in weight.

One other possibility is neck turning the cases. This will help more in some guns that it will in others.

Good luck!

Answer 7

Check on your powder weighing. I 've found some powder dumps can be inconsistent by a few grains +/-. A good digital scale or the old school magnetic scale gave me much better accuracy and consistentcy than a podwer dump.

Answer 8

Several posibilities;
1.Use the same primer, mixing them can throw you off
2.Make sure that you are seating each bullet as recommended
3.Make sure to use the same powder from the same box. Age can affect the burn rate.
Have been loading for a LONG time, these are the most frequent problems I have had.

Answer 9

make everything exactly the same. Use same primers, brass(same lenght), same batch of powder, etc. also weigh the bullets.

Answer 10

Holy mother of God. I thought operating my new digital cable was difficult. Buy the darn shells before you blow yourself up.