What is the best dog training device for my dog READ DETAILS!?

Question

I have the most stubborn Golden Retriever. She, Zoe, Turns 1 years old tomorrow on Valentine's day. ;) I've tried clicker training, obedience school...even the dog whistle had no effect on her when I thought the whistle was very powerful to a dog's ear. So, other than those I've mentioned, what is the best training device to use now? Those shock collars? Invisibal fence? WHAT!?? lol. I mean, she is the kind of dog that KNOWS what is wrong but does it anyways behind our back and then hides! LMAO. Thanks.

Oh sorry about that...

She needs help with coming when called, not biting people and other things like trash, chasing and beating up my cat...you know, the usual puppy training.

You know what is funny? She can play dead...that was easy to teach her...but all the others are hard lol

i know north...that is why i am asking for help and not my dog

Answer 1

OK, it sounds as if you've tried way too many different things when there are simpler methods out there.

For chasing and beating up the cat (my 10 month old does the same thing, but hasn't hurt the cat, he just wants to play), you need to teach the OFF command. The OFF command is used to curb a dog's chasing instinct. First, put her on a leash. Wave a ball in front of her face....then throw it. When she gets up to go after it, tug on her leash and firmly say "OFF". If she listens and backs off, give her a treat and some praise. Repeat this until she no longer gets up to go after the ball. Even when she stops, this command needs to be reinforced and practiced regularly.

Coming when called....make it a game. Start out right in front of her with a treat. Say "Zoe, come". When she comes to you, give her the treat. Move away and say "Zoe, Come" again...repeat this. After a while, you can incorporate other commands. You can have her sit, and stay...then move away....then say, "Zoe, Come" and give her the treat. But remember, ONLY treat when she's completed the task. Don't just give in and give it to her if she's not doing what you want. Now try enlisting the help of a friend. You each take treats....one of you goes to hide, then yells "Zoe, Come"....Zoe then has to make an effort to find the person before she can get her treat. While she's doing that, the other person hides. When Zoe has found the first person and been rewarded, you can start saying "Zoe, Come". Move locations, get further away, etc. It's good practice and teaches her that coming when called is a pleasant, rewarding, and fun experience.

Never call her to you for punishment. This only results in her being scared to come to you when you call because she thinks she's going to be in trouble.

As far as biting....when she bites (I'm assuming while playing), Yelp and/or say "Ouch!" and quit playing with her.

Remember that a lot of these issues will start to lessen as she gets older. She's in her adolescent stage right now and will remain there until about the age of 3. Most dogs really chill out once out of their "teen" years.

Make sure you have a covered trash can. If this doesn't help (as in, she knocks it over), you could try an automatic deterrent that will keep guard over your trash when you're not around. These are generally sold for cats, but I assume they would work for a dog, as well. If not....well, you could always put the trash away (in a cupboard or something).

And never discipline for something after the fact. Dogs have very short memories and if discipline is given after the fact, they don't know what it's for.

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Answer 2

I once had an elderly lady for a friend. She had a wonderful little dog. A mix of some sort. She had the dog trained well and it behaved very well. Learn here https://tr.im/gHn00

She kept an uncovered candy dish on her coffee table with candy in it. The dog was forbidden to eat the candy. When she was in the room observing the dog he did not even appear to notice the candy. One day while she was in her dinning room she happened to look in a mirror and could see her dog in the living room. He did not know he was being watched. For several minutes he was sitting in front of the candy bowl staring at the candy. Finally he reached in and took one. He placed it on the table and stared at it, he woofed at it. He stared some more, licked his chops and PUT IT BACK in the bowl and walked away. Did he want the candy, oh yeah. Did he eat it? Nope. They can be trained that well but most, I'll admit, are not trained that well. When I was a young boy, maybe 5 years old. We had a german shepherd. He was very well trained also. My mom could leave food unattended on the table, no problem. She would open the oven door and set a pan roast beef or roast chicken on the door to cool. No problem. He would not touch it, watched or not. But butter? Whole other story. You leave a stick of butter anywhere he could reach and it was gone. He was a large shepherd so there were not many places he could not reach. Really, I think the number of dogs trained to the point they will leave food alone when not being supervised is very small indeed.
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Now if we are talking obedience training, not food grubbing, that is a different story. Way back when I was first learning obedience training one of the final exercises was to put our dogs in a down/stay and not only leave the room but leave the building for 15 minutes. The only person that stayed was our trainer, not the owners. Most of the dogs in my class did not break their stay, which would be an automatic fail. I'm happy to report my dog was one of the ones that passed.

Answer 3

I say don't give up on a good trainer. If you didn't get anything from your obedience "school" then you were not working with the "right" trainer. Not all trainers and their various methods are right for every dog and owner. You need to find one that works for you. Contact a local Training, Obedience or Agility Club and ask for referrals. Don't go to a "school" but rather find a good trainer who only takes on clients via word of mouth. I have found these are some of the best ones and less expensive as they don't have advertising costs or overhead of rental (they often work something out with a local place to have their classes).

A really good trainer will help you understand your dogs behavior and that is a good start in training your dog.

Answer 4

You need a good training book, and 15 minutes every day with a pocket full of food morsels and a hungry dog. What is the point of those clickers if you have a voice, a voice that is always right there with you.

Do not try to teach a dog to sit by pushing his rear down. There is no need to. When your dog is good and hungry, hold a few morsels of food slightly higher than his nose. He will wag his tail, beg, etc. Eventually, when you don't give him anything he will naturally sit down, looking at you. THEN you say sit and give him a morsel of food. 30-40repetitions of this and he will sit on command whether you have treats handy or not. If you have to do it in two or three sessions that's okay. Every once in a while reinforce the training with a few food morsels again.

Answer 5

Sounds likle the handler is the problem. why are you switching to so many different things? All you need to do is be patient and consistent. First it was a clicker, then it was obedience training - by someone other than you? Then a whistle. Now you want to jump to something else? Stop giving so many signals and work with your dog. Put her on a leash, walk with her, praise her when she does soemthing right and then move on to the next thing. You should be training her on a leash at all times. No shock collar, no electric fence, no zapping her when you don;t know how to train your own dog. The failure is the handler, not the dog.

Answer 6

Hi, I understand that you are looking for some advice or resources to help fully train your dog or fix behavior problems. If a professional dog trainer is not an option at this time, or if you want to trt training your dog on your own (a great way to bond), I'd suggest you https://bitly.im/aMRmj

A friend recommened it to me a few years ago, and I was amazed how quickly it worked, which is why I recommend it to others. The dog training academy also has as an excellent home training course.

Answer 7

Dogs have not got morals and values the way that humans have. When they run and hide, it's because they have a history of being scolded or hit by you. Punishing a dog for doing "something bad behind your back" is extremely ineffective, as she's shown you. Dogs are not stubborn, especially Goldens - these dogs live to hang out with you and play with you - that is, unless you've taught her that being with you is not fun. You're the only one here who can answer that question.

Answer 8

Sounds to me like you have a very confused dog. All you need now is to try about 10 more methods and it will be a lost cause.
Consistency is and always has been the key to training any animal. Pick a training program, ANY TRANING PROGRAM, and stick with it.
The irony is that there are over a dozen training methods out there, AND THEY ALL WORK!!!

Answer 9

i do no longer understand all valuable education, so i would be somewhat incorrect on my answer. yet in fact for education in this remember i'd say you may desire to make infants a postive element to the canine. You try this via reinforcement, set your canine up for success. of course petting or treating him while he's appearing aggressive does no longer make the habit extra acceptable, extra or much less; worse. So, set it up so your canine can no longer fail - have the baby are available with a hand packed with treats, have them no longer seem at, touch, or make eye touch with the canine, then have the baby toss some treats on the floor. save the canine leashed purely in case, and while the baby tosses the treats, toss them faraway from them so there is not any longer any conflict or the canine has to forcefully circulate to the baby. make valuable the cope with you're utilising is like genuine fowl, or meat, or some thing the canine absolutly loves. those treats in basic terms circulate out while infants or strangers come around, so the canine learns that some thing mind-blowing happens while they arrive over on your place. If all of us became to try this, this needs to be an extremly controlled difficulty. lower back, leashed canine, all eyes on his physique language, do no longer permit him get too close - coping with young infants is a larger deal than coping with adults. additionally they sometimes do no longer pay attention too nicely while it is composed of animals, so which you will desire to be vigilant. I dont understand, ive seen a coach try this in the previous with strangers, and that i'd parent i'd advise it. Im extra education techniques, physique language, and no treats style of guy or woman.

Answer 10

Use corrections: A quick pop and release of the collar by pulling on the leash from a loose position. It is the equivalent of a pull on the wrist to a human. If you are teaching sit, get her on your left side with the leash on. Tell her calmly and sternly "Sit." If she doesn't start to sit, give her a correction. If she doesn't sit after two or three corrections, put her into a sit position while saying "sit" so she relates the word to the action.

I would get her a crate so she won't be able to get into the trash while you are gone or will be unsupervised with your cat.

As far as come, I would teach it with stay. You can do the "Sit, Stay, Come" exercises with her. Stand next to her, put her into a sit. Step in front of her with your palm right in front of her face. You should be facing her. Take one or two steps back, then tell her in a cheerful voice to come. Give her a lot of praise. Slowly increase the distance between you two. If she breaks a stay, don't get angry at her. Just calmly walk back over to her and start the excercise over moving a little bit closer and working your way back again. By not getting angry, she will remain calm. Consistently reinforce good behavior with praise, and give her a correction for bad behavior. Do not say NO too much. Only for a serious misbehavior.

Hope she grows out of it!! GOOD LUCK!