ok here is how my speakers came wired from the factory, and the way i am thinking of wireing them, please tell me which is better, and what impedance this is with both the subs being dual 4 ohm voice coils, each positive and negative set represents a voice coil just so there is no confusion, also if there is a better way to wire for more power, i really want to run the subs so they each have there own channel and i dont have to bridge them, the amp is 4 ohm stable and the speakers nominal impedance is dual 4 ohm any input would b great
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q258/chastidawn/Factory.jpg
2007-02-12
08:45:45
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3 answers
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asked by
Anonymous
in
Cars & Transportation
➔ Car Audio
so spanky, the way the subs came wired, is actual at 2 ohms?? because if thats the case they have been bridged on every am ive ever had and i know your not spose to bridge 2 ohms are you??? and also if thats the case, why does the back of my box where the cup is say 4 ohm?? and its wired like diagram 2 i think it was, where the positive of one voice coil went to the negative on the other voice coil, and the remaining pos.+neg. went to the terminal cup, both speakers are wired like that, i have 2 negatives, and 2 positives coming out of the one terminal cup ( the box came wired like this dtraight from MTX )
2007-02-12
09:11:04 ·
update #1
but spanky they are not, i have taken them out time and time again, there are two jumpers, one for each speaker, that connects the pos to neg of the speaker, then the other two run to the terminal cup, as i said i have 2 red n 2 black wires going from the terminal cup to the speakers, so if that diagram is correct these are wired for 2 ohm, maybe from where there are 2 of them it makes it a 4 ohm load?? because i have 2 speakers wired like the speaker in example two of your first post....2 speakers wired like that would that be 4 ohm??
2007-02-12
10:19:55 ·
update #2
sorry dude, im jus readin fast guess i didnt see the "R" sorry Sparky :))
2007-02-12
10:21:21 ·
update #3