amazon parrot keeps biting? what can i do!!?

Question

I got her/him from a pet shop and the shop owner told me the parrot has been imported and is very shy and nervos around people. Told me it will take time for her to get use to me. Suppose to be female and about one years old she cant talk and iam fed up of the parrot biting me. Ive spent loads of money for a bigger cage and toys and still the parrot hates me1 where iam i going wrong!!

SEXY17YEAROLD Grow up and behave like an adult. Most birds and animals are imported how else are they here in the first place! Iam trying to do my best and dont need some pmt teenager taking it out on me.

Answer 1

Well, you've definitely set yourself up for the challenge since an imported bird usually means wild-caught. It's much easier to tame and deal with captive bred birds because they are adjusted to humans, being handled, given that sort of attention. You'll have to take into consideration what she knew before and what she has now. She probably had a flock of other amazons to be with, now she has humans that are significantly larger, once trapped her, and have now caged her - she can't fly freely anymore because these bars stop her. Also, because we do look so threatening to the bird, she probably thinks we're predators or we're going to mistreat her or something. She probably ate a lot of fruits when in the wild, now she's being given (I hope it's not 100% seed) unrecognizable foods. Given this information alone, you can tell it's going to take a long while for her to become not only trusting of you and people in general, but even longer to be friendly. (This is not meant to be discouraging, but a quick blip explaining why she's so shy and nervous. She's been taken away from what she's grown up around.) She doesn't understand that these monetary goods are supposed to make her feel better. She relies on you, the caregiver (which she doesn't have the concept of yet because she doesn't trust you), to give her emotional support and love, but she won't let any of that in until she can be trusting of you.

As per any general taming rules, I'll suggest the same I do for any other parrot owner.
First and foremost, give her time to acclimate. Because she was wild caught, spent time in a pet store, and has now been shuffled to your home, you may want to give her a couple of weeks to settle in.

Sit by her in her cage and talk to her, coo, whistle, and spend time by her. Also, bribery. You'll want to be very careful with this, because she's not too trusting yet. I don't know much about amazons, but you can call up an avian vet or look up the foods that they naturally eat and in what way, and try to simulate that within your home. (ie. hanging a piece of romaine lettuce on the top of the cage through the bars, stringing it in and out from bar to bar, tying pieces of apple - NOT the seeds, they're toxic - on a string, etc.) Most birds have a crazy liking for spray millet, so you can try that, too. If she sees you putting these treats in her cage, she may learn associate you with rewards or yummy things. If she's out of the cage, (do this in a bird safe room where nothing can be ingested, all lids, doors, and windows are closed and secure, there are no fumes, no places for the bird to hide) hold your hand out a considerable amount away from her so she doesn't feel threatened, but close enough so that she can conveniently take a step up and be on your hand. Lay a treat on or hold it over your hand so that she notices something is there. If she really wants it, she'll go for it -- eventually. It could take her some time to build up the courage. When she comes to you, say "step up", praise her and give her the treat. Basically follow a similar or the same routine over and over until she gets the hang of it, and you'll be able to tell when that is. Eventually, she'll be so used to just stepping up onto you that she'll forget about the treat and you won't need it to have her come to you anymore. However, a word of warning: I say it as if it's a quick process, and it, by no means, is at all. It's a lengthy trust-building process and not at all similar to the training of another animal, such as a dog. When she bites (it's not an 'if', it's a 'when'. Being bitten is a part of parrot ownership, and definitely something you'll have to live with, but it will lessen when she's tamed), do NOT give a reaction. Do not yell, do not pull away, do not punish her after the fact, and some people will suggest this but do NOT spray her with water. Yes, it's distracting, but it's the wrong idea. Birds love showers and water and punishing her with something she would love in the wild, and probably did, screws around with her mind and if anything, it'll make her want to bite you so she can get a bath. When she lets go, go tend to your wounds and come back when you're calmed down. Because parrots can sense our emotions so well, you won't want to approach her being angry because she'll be able to mirror that on herself on you. Avoid putting her back in her cage when she bites because this will tell her that a) if she wants to go back into her cage, all she has to do is bite, or b) being in her cage is a punishment and she won't want to return to her cage. If she gives you a prolonged, painful bite, (this is what I do and it's probably easier with smaller birds, but I doubt it's impossible with large parrots) blow in her face. Don't blow hard enough to hurt her, but hard enough to distract her with discomfort so she'll let go.

If she's inside the cage, put your hand in slowly. If she cowers back, flies away, or lunges, slowly retreat. Do not pull back, it teaches her that to make you go away when she doesn't want you around, all she has to do is threaten you with a lunge. Do not make any quick or sudden movements that may frighten her and make her even more skittish of hands. If she seems calm, just leave your hand there for maybe half a minute and she'll learn, over time and with much practice and consistency, to be comfortable with your hand near her. You can start putting the same little treats on your hand when you put it inside of the cage and maybe you'll luck out on the "step up" thing there, too.

Never rush things. Take them slow. Especially with a wild caught bird, your patience may run thin, but keep your head up. As long as you're being consistent, confident, and taking your time to earn her trust (not forcing anything), and taking baby-baby steps towards milestones like the simple 'step up' command (which you should always reinforce with the verbal command), she'll come around. You'll be able to show off an incredible bird buddy someday.

Oh! And I just remembered this. She may be biting because she doesn't feel good or feels vulnerable. She may be sick, so, especially if she was bought from a store, stores tend to harbour many birds that may be carrying disease, you'll want to get her to a certified avian vet ASAP for a well bird check. They're not expensive for a general health check, around $50 to $75 plus whatever it may cost for medication or treatment if she's even sick. Always better to err on the side of caution to make sure she's not biting out of illness. You can also get a DNA test while you're at it to find out the sex for sure. If you don't have an avian vet yet (and you need a specifically focused vet on birds to get proper examining and treatment), here's a great link for looking one up near you: http://www.aav.org/vet-lookup/ They'll probably be able to help in your biting problem if you ask them.

To end, I'll send you to an amazing parrot website. There's a page specifically on biting (where the owner describes her experience with HER wild caught Blue Fronted Amazon), as well as other very useful pages on a proper parrot diet and decreasing mating behaviour, which will also help in reducing cage territoriality. http://www.rationalparrot.com

Good luck.

Edit to add: Depending on where you are, it may or may not still be legal to import them. It also depends when she was imported, because the person I linked above got her bird from a rescue, I believe, after she was wild caught in the 1980s and had already been through several homes. For the sake of you and the bird, I would go back to the store and ask questions like how old they would approximate she is (for all you know, she could be 80 and at the end of her life, while on the other hand, she may be young or a juvenile, maybe just hitting sexual maturity - which is a great thing to know because sexual maturity is the toughest time to have a friendly bird - or an adult), when she was imported (during a time when it was legal or recently, if recently, I would investigate the wild parrot trade and if or when it was made illegal where you are), the diet she was on, how many homes she had been through, etc. It's very useful information on your bird and for the sake of other wild caught birds as well, it may save them a lot of stress. The first answerer was very rude in her response, and the bird is imported and in a human home now. For all we know, she was taken and trapped as a chick and raised in captivity with little handling, so she wouldn't know how to survive in the wild. You never know. Never assume. And don't think all 17 year olds act like that because I'm 17, and I hope you think I'm being mature.

Answer 2

I have an african grey- not the same species, but it is of around the same size so I sympathise about the biting.

Any parrot takes a fair while to get used to their new owner- it's not really a baby either as it's approaching the 'brat' stage which is equivalent to the 'terrible twos'! Birds can get pecky during this phase which is equivalent to puberty.

Patience will be the best way- most parrots generally aren't vindictive and they'll bite as a defensive mechanism. However a small percentage of birds are biters that bite for the heck of it. You'll need to establish under what conditions your bird bites in order to determine this. Is the bird only biting when approached, or is it actively seeking to bite?

You can try a few psychological tricks on the parrot. Firstly, lower the cage as a dominant bird will naturally go higher than its subordinates. Lowering the bird tells it that it has a place in the pecking order and it's below you. Then entice it out of the cage. The cage is the bird's territory and if the bird is unfamiliar with you, it will defend its cage and itself. A small t-perch is ideal for this, or a small parrot table-top gym which are available from pet shops for around the £30 mark. It's a good investment as the more time the parrot spends with you, the more confident it will become.

Next it will be a case of gently and slowly introducing yourself to the bird and showing it that you and your hand is no threat. Expect to get bitten during this phase. The bird does not know you and will peck to establish itself- 'pecking order' is where the phrase comes from. Make slow deliberate moves- preferably after sitting near the parrot for a while so it gets used to your presence. If it goes to bite,do not back down, instead give a firm command. I used 'Step Up' or 'Up' to signal to my bird that I was boss. Don't put it back into the cage in its comfort zone if it bites. If my bird is on my hand and goes to peck, I will shake the hand lightly or drop it. This destabilises the bird and they will let go. They soon get the picture that biting= a scary drop and link the two. My parrot doesn't particularly get on well with my husband- however he's gotten around the biting problem by wrapping a hand towel round his hand and getting the bird to 'step up' onto that. If he bites, hubby doesn't feel it and doesn't back down in front of the bird.

All parrots will bite at some point. Even my bird who is pretty docile will chuck a strop (usually when it's time for bed!) and sometimes peck. He gets a strong 'bad bird' command and is placed back onto his play perch and ignored for 10 minutes. As he's a very social bird, ignoring him works. They may also peck unintentionally- the tongue is a tool they use to explore- they may test with their beak as to whether a perch, arm or hand is safe enough to step onto and can sometimes test too hard. I've developed an 'ouch' signal for my parrot if this is the case. I say 'ouch' and he releases my finger and repeats 'ouch' back to me.

Lastly, bear in mind that the parrot's history is unknown to you. As it is already a year old, it may already have some negative experiences or feel very unsettled by the change. It may also need time to bond with you, the new owner as it bonded with its old owner. Be patient, persistant and confident. It will get there eventually.

Answer 3

You should never buy an imported parrot,especially not as a pet.

There are lots being bred in the UK and many of these are hand reared and tame when you get them.An imported bird may become tame but it could take years.Also importing is making them rare in the wild as imported usually means trapped from the wild.

Sell her to someone who is willing to keep her in an aviary and maybe breed from her and buy yourself a handreared youngster. It will be more expensive but will make a far better pet.

And never buy a parrot just to hear it talk.Although most will some-even in species famous for talking like greys and amazons-never do.

Answer 4

Female birds (hens) arent as good talkers as males (cocks). I have an amazon called Bob. Place your hands ALL over the cage so your scent is on it everywhere, when u go to touch your bird she will associate the safe smell on her cage the same as your hand. Take half of her food away so she runs out at her best feeding time, therefore when you approach her with a monkey nut in your hand ( normally parrots fave food ) she shud take it from you. Perservere with it. Dont look down from your standing height, kneel down so she can see all of you and it isnt as daunting to her. She has to earn her food from u as u r in charge rather than giving her a steady supply when her feeder is empty. Hope this helps !!

Answer 5

Parrots are funny things. But with patience and some band aid they are very rewarding. I have an african grey and she/he (think he) can have an attitude sometimes. I read loads of books and articles on web. It really fascinating to find out all about the behaviour etc.If it bites then dont shout at her. Just walk away and ignore for a while. A good tip I learnt was to stand on a chair so that your eye level is higher than theirs. That makes them know you are higher in the flock than they are. It worked for me as she wouldnt get on my arm oterrwise. She does now. Time and patience. Dont give up. Stick with it and give it at least 6 months to get to know you and your home. Read as much as you can on the behaviour.

Answer 6

Firstly I'm not sure importing amazon's is legal anymore, it might me worth checking that?

I got an amazon, had him (i think he's a he - you have to send DNA away to be certain) for 4 years. Parotts usually are close to one person and that is usually someone of the opposite sex. My parrot Sam hates anyone who comes near - he swoops at people and he thinks its funny - he flys back to his cage laughing (literally). Sam is fantasic with me, he sits on my shoulders, snuggles in for cuddles. It takes a hell of a lot of patience to get them like it and if you leave them in their cage for a week or so without letting them out they often go back to biting. Regular human contact is vital. I started handling my amazon with a pair or gardening gloves and a stick to encourage it to fly to when I first had it. Just be patience, I know its hard and I know it's frustrating and hurtful that you love this little bird and it appears to hate you. Just remember not all parrots talk, amazons are supposed to talk loads - I know some who don't shut up but mine doesn't say alot - he whistles, says how are you and hello and also barks like a dog. So don't expect her to speak because they don't always. Good luck and keep trying!!!

Answer 7

Parrots are "life maters". When the pet shop guy told you it would take time he meant it. It's going to take a lot of time, patience and loving attention from you in order for the bird to get used to you. Even then, it's going to be vicious to everybody else besides you. That's their nature. If you don't feel up to the task, I'd suggest selling the bird.

Answer 8

hi Janine we have a amazon parrot he also bites when he is in the cage but when we got hem out he is realy nice we found that he as a likeing for different toys all so if you keep the nuts back out of her food and give them to her as a treat one more thing you need to teach her to step up onto your hand use the nuts as a treat when she steps up on to your hand this will take time you need to tell her to step up. not all amazon talk
i hope this will help you
tony

Answer 9

He may not be handfed, so he has never taught that it hurts you when he bites. He may not be trained at all. I would work on teaching him to eat from your hand, and step up on a perch. the more you give him the oppourtunity to bite, the more you are reinforcing that this can get him his way, and that you are cautious of his bite. Go slow, and earn each other's trust.

Answer 10

i cant wait to read the replies because i have exactly the same problem, also it hurts when they bite too! i have been told to move the cage around to stop them getting Territorial but that didn't work, mine takes food from you very gently though. Dont take notice of the 17 year old idiot !

Answer 11

I think you have to be very patient with these birds. Try asking a vet or even look up on the computer about how to look after them. Good luck!