the amp is at a very low setting(basically minumum) but when I cut it up it gets hot and cuts off. I also changed settings(midway to hallf wattage) and it still gets hot and cuts off I don't even use the bass boost. Its set at 50hz not 40hz whats the deal. Is kenwood really garbage? Help me!!!
2007-02-09 12:59:43 · 5 answers · asked by life's good 2 in Cars & Transportation ➔ Car Audio
The P3 subs are DVC subs. Do you have the coils of each sub wired in parallel (+ to + and - to -) or in series (+ of one coil going to the - of the other coil and the remaining + and - to go out to the amp or whatever)? If you have the coils of each wired in parallel and then you connected the positive and negative wires of both speakers together, then you will have a 1ohm load for the amp. Of course, this amp has "two channels" which combine the ohm load of each "channel" internally by combining both positives and both negatives together internally. This is inherently wiring whatever it sees on each "channel" in parallel. So, if you have each sub's voice coils wired and parallel and you connect one sub to each of the "channels" on the amp, the amp is reading it all as a 1ohm load. Kenwood claims this amp is stable at 1ohm, 900 watts even. Personally, I doubt this, just given my experience with Kenwood. They are good but I've seen their products not stand up to what they are supposed to be.
You need to make sure your amp has adequate air flow so check out where you have it mounted. You dont want have a punch of stuff on the top of it so that air cant get to the chassis of the amp and assist in cooling. It's a class d amp so it should run relatively cool but still, things can happen.
If you have a blown coil on one of the subs, that can cause the amp to go into failure. It depends on what specifically is damaged on the voice coil, but I've seen this before: a coil is shorted but the speaker still plays (off of one coil). The amp still puts out wattage but it also sees the short. It can go into thermal shut down, if not failure as a result. You can pull each sub and use a digital multimeter to test the impedence of each coil. You should get something around 4ohms on each... 3.8 to 4.1 or so. If you get something bizarre, then you may have a problem (or a low battery in your DMM).
If this is not the case and the amp is mounted in a good place, then you may have an amp that is not able to consistently do what it's supposed to do. You can take back to where you got it and try to exchange it or send it to Kenwood. You're next most efficient ohm load that you can wire up with those two subs is 4ohms. This should play (provided you dont have a bad sub) but it wont be to the maximum ability claimed by the amp.
Just for kicks, if your subs turned out okay when you tested the impedence, try wiring one sub in parallel and to the amp, just one. This will give a 2ohm load to the amp. see what it does with that.
Good luck!
2007-02-13 10:59:44 · answer #1 · answered by fosgate3 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋
The issue may be in how the sub is wired and the configuration of the subs themselves.
We need to know if the subs are dual voice coils or single and the ohms they are.
Y!IM me an I'll help you get this up and running.
sparky3489@yahoo.com
2007-02-09 13:12:40 · answer #2 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
check your conections bridgeing and wireing in series will drop you ohms rating and over heat the amp.check out the guide for stereos at checker its with the chiltons
2007-02-13 06:45:02 · answer #3 · answered by iamwhoiam151 2 · 0⤊ 0⤋
I would suggest a JL audio amp. works great for my type R's
2007-02-09 13:09:09 · answer #4 · answered by Mike C 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋
no cap needed, not enough power. make sure your ten's are in ported boxes, otherwise i cant see it being very loud...
2016-05-24 19:12:05 · answer #5 · answered by ? 4 · 0⤊ 0⤋