How to make a picture clear, cause it's fuzzy?

Answer 1

If you cannot re-take the picture and the fuzzy photo is all you have, you can try to experiment with the sharpening tool or 'unsharp mask' in Photoshop...but these are only good for mild fuzzyness. Overuse of these functions will result in a very unnatural looking photo. My comments following are addressing the capture side to prevent fuzzy photos in the future.

If the entire photo is fuzzy, it is most likely camera shake, or your autofocus has been turned off.
If the overall photo is clear, but your subject is fuzzy, it is most likely a focus issue.
If the overall photo is fuzzy, but your subject is in focus, you have achieved selective focus probably with a larger aperture...if this was not your intention, you need to use a smaller aperture.

My assumptions are that you are using a digital point-and-shoot camera without a tripod.

Here are remedies/notes on camera shake:
Digital cameras have introduced a bad habit to many photographers...because most people are no longer using the optical viewfinder to compose and capture their image, they are now holding the camera farther away from their body (to view the subject through the LCD screen now). I would do this also, because the optical viewfinders on most point-and-shoots are horrible...some don't even have them anymore. But the problem with holding the camera out and taking the photo is that your camera will experience much more camera shake, especially when depressing the trigger. Camera shake is the largest contributor to a blurry photo. If the camera is braced against your nose bridge and skull (as to look through the optical viewfiner like in the old days), the camera is much more stable, and depressing the trigger in that state will not cause deflection. The main thing when shooting with an LCD viewfinder is to be aware of the camera shake. If necessary, use a tripod or set it on a solid surface and use the timer. If none of those are available, select a higher shutter speed above 1/60 sec and hold that camera steady! Use a higher ISO if necessary. Be super gentle when depressing the trigger...it should almost surprise you when it fires. Counteract your trigger by positioning your palm or thumb on the camera's bottom. Triggering the camera should be more like a 'squeeze' rather than a 'pushing down' on the camera...take your time. ALSO, be aware that as you maximize the zoom, you are amplifying the effect of any camera shake. I always like to add that the difference between a good photograph and a great photograph is a tripod.

Here are remedies/notes on focusing:
In a lot of cases, you may find the photo to be overall in focus, but your subject out-of-focus. The main thing here is to be aware of your autofocus setting. For most default settings, the autofocus setting targets dead-center...whatever is in the center of your photo is what the camera will focus on. The focusing usually occurs when the trigger is depressed halfway, so you should be able to preview the focus effect on your LCD if you look closely. Usually, there will be a crossfire lit up on your LCD to tell you what portion of the image its focus lock it set on. Be aware that these focusing crossfires can move around or even have multiple occurrences depending on your camera and customization.

Notes on selective focusing:
The larger your camera aperture, the more selective focusing you will achieve (i.e. your subject will be in focus and everything else will be blurry.) This type of photography tends to draw attention to your subject and is quite nice if the background is nothing interesting. Most point-and-shoot cameras have a 'portrait' mode to achieve this effect...it will basically try to select the largest aperture. The opposite of the 'portrait' mode would be the 'landscape' mode, where the camera will select the smallest aperture to extend your depth of field, but probably not small enough where it requires a tripod (it will probably try to keep your shutter speed above 1/60, or automatically select a higher ISO...I think the camera assumes you are not using a tripod.) BTW, 1/60 sec and faster is the acceptable speed for hand holding a camera without visible camera shake...but again, be careful when depressing the trigger.

Other notes:

Image Stabilization (mechanical) is a nice feature to help alleviate camera shake. But don't fall for this thing caller 'digital image stabilization'...this is just a higher ISO setting which tends to be very noisy (grainy). Get the mechanical image stablilization.

The other possibility of a fuzzy photo is a moving subject. In this case, you need to learn a more advanced technique of panning the camera with your subject to take the photo. This will bring the subject into clarity, while the background will blur...giving your photo an overall feeling of motion.

Hope this helps!

Answer 2

Change the resolution.

Answer 3

focus