How very vague. :) There's a lot to say with a question so general.
Leave him in his cage for a couple of days so he can acclimate to his new surroundings. When he seems more comfortable in your home, you can begin opening the cage door and allowing him to come out on his own accord.
First, cage. Does he have a wide, spacious cage with mostly horizontal bar spacing no more than 1/2 an inch? He should be able to fly around his cage, and lovebirds mostly move horizontally rather than vertically. They love climbing, so horizontal bars are ideal. Vertical bars allow them to slip down as they climb, which is frustrating.
Second, how's his diet? He should be weaned onto a healthy diet of approximately 85% pellets (the best are Harrison's, Roudybush, and Zupreem - avoid Kaytee and I would avoid Exact, too, avoid anything with artificial colours because the dye in the food stains poop, and poop is a good indicator of sickness), 5% seeds, and 10% fresh foods, fruits, veggies, pastas, grains, etc. Fresh food should be left out no longer than two hours so it doesn't spoil. Weaning over takes quite some time, and having all my birds weaned over took me a good six months to a year. Also, regarding fresh foods, definitely do NOT feed mushroom, onion, avocado, tomato leaves, chocolate, or anything alcoholic.
Third, taming. Since you're not the breeder, and whether the breeder has hand-fed the chicks or not, he'll be wary of your hands. Open the cage and let him come out on his own. Don't force him out and avoid sudden movements. When he's settled, but you can tell he wants to come out, offer your hand to him, not close enough to be threatening but close enough for him to take one step onto your hand. If he cowers back, slowly withdraw. You can try this with a treat on your hand. Most birds love spray millet. When he steps onto your hand, use a verbal command "step up". Has he been DNA sexed, or is this just a breeder assumption? If he is in fact female, there are a plethora of things you need to do to avoid egg laying and nutrient deficiencies. Males have much fewer problems in the 'mating season' area.
Fourth, is he in or near a kitchen, anywhere you use commercial disinfectants, non-stick cookware, or aerosol sprays? If so, get him away from them. The crap that floats around in the air from said products can kill birds in a matter of seconds, and if non-stick cookware is overheated, it's not unlikely a bird just drops dead with no warning signs.
Fifth, he needs lots of toys! Spoil him rotten. :) Lovebirds are avid chewers and big on bells and mirrors, not so much for playing, but for fighting with. :P Try and avoid the round bells with the jingly thing inside because the little hole where they try and reach in to grab it can snag their beaks and they can get stuck. I use lots of wood toys, shredders, hiding treats inside said toys, lots of bamboo, bells, mirrors, and combinations of them all. Make sure these are rotated regularly (I do once a week) so he doesn't get bored.
Sixth, he needs a variation of perches. Rope perches are very comfy, and natural perches with varying textures and widths are very good. I use manzanita, dragonwood, grapevine, rope, and once in a while, cement. Dowel (straight wood) perches are okay, as long as they're not the only perches available. Lacking varieity in perches can lead to birdy arthritis. These should be rotated, too.
As an addition, the cage lining should NEVER be a wood shaving or corn cob bedding. Both emit odours that can irritate birds' sensitive respiratory systems. The very best cage lining is plain black and white newspaper. We get it for free, it absorbs smell, does not emit smell, does not hold bacteria (the way corn cob bedding does - grows fungus inside lungs when inhaled), and is convenient to lay down and take out in sheets. Clean the paper along with food and water once a day, and do a full cage cleaning (scrubbing everything down with, from my personal experience, the best disinfectant ever - a 50/50 solution of water and white vinegar) at least once a week.
Hmm, I guess those are the general basics. Don't forget to take your Paulie in for a well-bird visit at your local certified avian vet (you can get a recommendation from the breeder) to make sure he gets a clean bill of health. They run up around $50 to $90 + whatever medical bills he may require.
Good luck! Lovebirds are very pleasant little guys. :D
2007-01-22 06:23:47
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answer #1
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answered by PinkDagger 5
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Hey there!
I just wanted to tell you that behavior information that you get, like on the questions related to other parrots, can also be used for your lovebirds. So, if you see something that someone else said for another species, you can use the same stuff for your babies.
I work with all sorts of different birds every day, and the same basic principals work for all kinds of parrots. Calm and confidence works for all species. Hand taming by really just working with them every day...all species. Just because you don't have a mammoth macaw doesn't mean that you can't teach a lovebird those same tricks!
Good luck!
2007-01-22 06:12:23
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answer #4
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answered by sdkramer76 4
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