n 1999, my mother decided she really didn't want to spend the following summer helping my father search for Etruscan remains, if doing so also meant staying in a Tuscan hill-top town whose residents drew their water from the well in the square and shared a couple of privies. So after helping him set up the excavation she took me to the coast, for some reason settling on the town of San Vincenzo and a hotel called Villa Marcella.
It was a thoroughly mom-and-pop operation, with Laura and Rodolfo minding the desk and taking care of the guests while Maria (Laura's mom) worked in the kitchen and Beppe (her dad) saw to putting out beach chairs and such. The menu was simple, but once a week or so Beppe would get into the act, scooping out a makeshift hearth in the dune behind the building, building a fire, and grilling chickens over the coals. They were wonderful, basted with olive oil using a sprig of rosemary, and I recall their also having a delightful lemony tang. Simple food fit for a king, and quite possibly {short description of image}one of the reasons I'm still so fascinated by food today. With time I also discovered Florence's great contribution to the art of grilling, the bistecca alla fiorentina, also simply known as a fiorentina, arista (grilled pork loin), rosticciana, and a host of other marvels. Taken as a whole, Central Italian grilling is remarkably simple if compared with other traditions, such as the American-style barbecue. The fire is either charcoal or wood burned down to coals (oak is considered best, though the choice is to a certain degree dictated by what's available; olive wood is also used, and some cooks also add herbs to the coals as the meat cooks, especially sage or rosemary). Marinades? They tend to be simple, if used at all -- olive oil, salt, pepper, garlic, rosemary, and perhaps sage. Also, occasionally, lemon juice. Because of this simplicity, the flavor has to come from the meat, which must therefore be top quality.
A couple of words on technique: Let your fire burn down to coals that have a little ash on them before you begin. The question of exactly how far to place the meat from the coals depends upon the size of the piece of meat and the temperature of the fire, and is therefore best answered by experience. I put my hand over the fire (just above the grill); if I can only hold it for two seconds, the flame is quite hot -- perfect for searing a steak, for example. 3-4 seconds is cooler, and suited for grilling meats that cook quickly. For meats that have longer cooking times (poultry, spare ribs, and such), I aim for coals that I can hold my hand over for 5 seconds. Keep in mind that you can vary the heat by raising or lowering the grill, and also that for some kinds of cooking you may want to build a two-tiered fire, with lots of coals in one section, that give a 2-second fire, and fewer coals in another, for a 4-second fire. This sort of fire is perfect for steak, for example -- the hot section for searing, and the cooler section for cooking the steak through. If you are instead spit-roasting, you can build a nice bank of coals and set the spit in front of them, with a pan under it to catch the drippings, which will be perfect for basting. Regulate the intensity of the heat by moving the meat closer to or further from the coals; you will likely want to start by giving something like steak a blast of heat to sear it and then move it to a cooler section to cook it through, but begin something fattier like chicken with its skin some distance from the coals, lest the dripping grease cause glareups that char the meat, and move it in closer to brown it once it's almost cooked. In any case, experience will guide your hand, and once you have the technique down -- the important thing to remember is not to rush things -- it's one of the most satisfying cooking methods there is.
Last thing: If you can, use wood charcoal to make your fire. Brickettes may be cheaper, but they're made from a variety of ingredients (including sawdust), and can impart off flavors to the foods cooked over them.
SOME RECIPES:
Arrosto alla Palermitana
Cutlets dredged in seasoned breadcrumbs and grilled to perfection.
Bistecca alla Fiorentina
The classic porterhouse cut, a rare treat.
Bistecche alla Torinese
Steaks, served with white beans, and a classic, zesty Piemontese sauce for meats.
Bistecchine di Maiale alla Griglia
Grilled pork chops are amazingly succulent. Also a recipe for spare ribs.
Braciole di Maiale alla Calabrese
Pork chops rubbed with hot pepper and fennel, and grilled.
Capretto alla Griglia
Quick, easy Calabrian grilled kid.
Capretto allo Spiedo
Spit-roasted leg of kid with herbs, from Basilicata (you could also use lamb).
Costarelle alla Laziale
Grilled pork chops served on dripping-laden slices of bread.
Involtini Arrostiti
Delightfully refreshing Sicilian grilled involtini.
Kyle's Burgers
A burger is, well, a burger. However, they're very easy to jazz up, and here's what I do with them.
Maialino allo Spiedo
A Tuscan recipe for spit-roasted suckling pig, done over the coals.
Pancetta alla Griglia
An unusual recipe for uncured pancetta, rubbed with spices & herbs, and grilled.
Piccioni alla Fiorentina
Pigeons spit-roasted with sausages and slices of toasted bread to catch the drippings.
Piccioni allo Spiedo
Pigeons rubbed with herbs and spit-roasted to perfection.
Polpettine alla Griglia
Sicily's delicious grilled meatballs.
Polpettine alla Griglia
More grilled Sicilian meatballs.
Rosticciana
Tuscan grilled spare ribs are simplicity in themselves. And very good too.
Salsicce allo Spiedo
Sardinian grilled sausages, with lard and fresh sage. Very tasty!
Spiedini di Coniglio
Rabbit skewered with sausage and bay leaves.
Vittorio's Pollo alla Griglia
Perfect barbacued chicken.
Pollo al Mattone
A very old, possibly even Etruscan way of grilling a chicken.
Costolette d'Agnello Scottadito Grilled lamb chops that get their name (finger-blistering) from the fact that they're so tasty people can't wait for them to cool.
Vitello allo Spiedo alla Ligure
Roast veal basted with lemon juice. Yum!
AND OFF THE NET:
Bistecca with Sun dried Tomato Marinade
I've never seen this in Italy, but it does look good.
Bistecca alla Pizzaiola
A grilled version of the Neapolitan classic, with the meat cut into strips after ti comes off the grill and simmered in the sauce, which can also work with pasta.
Derrick's Bistecca alla Fiorentina
He uses strip steak, and marinates it (lightly) in lemon juice.
Derrick's Italian Grilling Ideas
About.Com's Barbecue guide suggests things I would never have thought of, including spaghetti.
Got more sites / recipes to suggest? Let me know!
Buon Appetito!
Kyle Phillips
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2007-01-18 06:31:04
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answer #9
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answered by jithu k 2
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