It has 2X4 studs. I have 6" insulation that I was going to separate into 3". Also I was going to use 7/16" OSB. Any other suggestions. I live in NE Wisconsin, and it is a 2 and 1/2 detached garage. I am looking at slowly, but surely, finishing off the garage and perhaps getting a pellet stove later.
2007-01-15 15:24:48 · 7 answers · asked by dierboy 3 in Home & Garden ➔ Maintenance & Repairs
I did exactly the same thing to my two car garage a few years ago. You won't regret it. My wood stove will keep it nice and warm with no trouble at all, no matter how cold it is outside. You have the right plan. I might add that if your garage doors are not insulated, you can easily do those,too, with some insulation board and panel adhesive. The insulation on your garage walls and ceiling will help the environment in there year round. For example, you won't have to worry about condensation after you insulate, so your car and other metal objects will not rust as easily, etc.
2007-01-15 15:40:26 · answer #1 · answered by Harold 3 · 0⤊ 0⤋
If f you can afford a 3 car garage, you can afford to insulate the other 2 walls and get premium doors. Since you are up north, not having the insulation and the door will be just like keeping your cars outside. With the insulation and door you could probably just keep a space heater going in your garage overnight and not have to plug in the electric dipstick. Also think about the aesthetics, those cheap garage doors will be noisy and if you bump into it, they will have a dent on both sides. The insulated doors, with a good opener and insulated walls are the way to go for you northerners. Especially if you wind up having to do any work out there or you use it to hang out in (darts, and beer keg). Tell your wife that you can upgrade the light fixtures and cabinet hardware at a later time, but you NEED to get the garage in order first.
2016-03-28 23:38:08 · answer #2 · answered by Anonymous · 0⤊ 0⤋
If you plan to heat your garage, you should have a vapor barrier between the insulation and the OSB. I'd use heavy duty painter's plastic, at least 4 mils thick. In the winter, without the vapor barrier, moisture from inside your garage would get into the insulation and freeze. Over time the ice buildup would get thicker and thicker. Not only would you lose the effectiveness of the insulation, but you'd have a big mess in the spring when the ice melted.
2007-01-15 17:04:19 · answer #3 · answered by Tech Dude 5 · 0⤊ 0⤋
I'd either crush the 6" batts into the 3 1/2 cavity or get some 3 1/2" batts. Either way you get the same R-factor because the 6" batts are compressed. As for the OSB, I used a product called Smart Panels that is an OSB product but is faced with a finish that is grooved 8 o.c. and preprimed for easy painting. From a resale perspective, it gives a much better finished look then regular OSB but you can nail and screw into it the same. I installed a 1x2 as ceiling trim and was done after painting with exterior grade paint.
2007-01-15 16:03:48 · answer #4 · answered by Turnhog 5 · 0⤊ 0⤋
you will have a heck of a time ripping the 6" insulation apart. why not fir out the walls with some 2X4's ripped in half to build out the studs and get the true benefit of the stuff? or take it back and exchange it for the 3 1/2" stuff. good luck.
2007-01-15 15:46:25 · answer #5 · answered by car dude 5 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Just wanted to say what a lucky guy you are.
A) You live in NE Wisconsin
B) You are about to have an insulated 2-1/2 car garage.
C) Go to Leinies.com to get some cool stuff to hang inside of it.
Congratulations!
A fellow Cheesehead
2007-01-15 16:41:00 · answer #6 · answered by JB 2 · 0⤊ 0⤋
Ditto on the vapor barrier plastic.
Also use expanding foam in all the cracks.
Pellet stoves are good too but I like old fashioned wood burning stoves. Pellet stoves need augers to feed the pellets so they need power to run them. Not good in an outage or other "situation".
Miketyson26
2007-01-15 18:23:38 · answer #7 · answered by miketyson26 5 · 0⤊ 0⤋