No, don't use the dowel rod! It will never been secure. I found that out the hard way. You'll have to put unsightly screws through the sides to get the post somewhat tight. The best way is to get a specific anchor made just for your situation. They're called "Key Locks" by Coffman, and they work great! How they work is this: you install a provided lag bolt in the bottom center of the newel post to a specific depth (this depth is critical). On the floor, there is a notched plate that is recessed into the floor and secured by 4 long screws. The notch is beveled so that as you put the lag bolt in place and bump the newel post into position it becomes tighter. If it gets too tight before reaching center, loosen the bolt. If too loose, tighten the bolt. Once in you have it where you want it, put some wood glue down and reposition and maybe tack it with a finish nail or two. Done.
2007-01-15 04:31:17
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answer #1
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answered by Turnhog 5
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I think the dowel will come loose over time. I did one a couple of years ago using one of the kits from Lowes and it worked out well. The kit has a heavy 8" bolt with wood screw threads on the bottom, and machine screw threads on the top.
The bottom 4" of the bolt is screwed into the floor and joists below it, and the top half of the bolt goes into a 5/8" hole made into the newel post. A side entrance hole of about 1 1/2" allows you to slip a washer and nut onto the top of the bolt and you can use a box wrench to tighten it firmly to the floor. Then a wood plug is glued into the hole in the newel to conceal the side entrance.
I don't believe the method you are contemplating will make such a strong bond that will stand up to years of ongoing pressure to the handrail attached to the newel.
2007-01-15 04:31:16
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answer #2
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answered by Rich D 3
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Newel Post Fastener
2016-10-04 04:41:18
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answer #3
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answered by Anonymous
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How To Install Newel Post
2017-01-01 04:47:54
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answer #4
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answered by ? 4
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I have repaired a few 19th century newel posts. They were attached by long threaded rod that went through the floor joists and were bolted from below.
Bolts are good. Other answers detail currently available kits.
Bolt systems that allow you to take up slack from time to time are best.
If you have a solid post and want to do the full long install like the old days, and can get to the under side of your joists for occasional maintenance, I could imagine this as a replacement to a shallow one with a lag screw up the post or down in to the joist depending on design (nothing really wrong with that )
If the post is hardwood ( I would not do this with a pine post) I would drill a deep, centered hole the diameter of the threaded rod core (measure the bit that is solid, not the full diameter.
Then use a machinist's tap to cut threads on the inside of the drilled hole. With a long tap you should be able to get in about 6 to 8 inches. Use about a 3/4 inch threaded rod. This gives greater diameter and circumference (Therefore more surface area) for the wood to metal joint.
Lubricate the inside of the hole for the threaded rod with wood glue just before inserting the rod. Select a glue with low 'tack' so it does not try to set up too fast as you crank the rod in. All you need is enough to coat the walls. Use a smaller dowel or stick to distribute the glue, that way you don't need luck to have it cover where you want.
Make sure there is enough head space in the hole to accept displaced air and glue. (drill it deeper than the rod will go) It is a good idea to drill a couple of small holes sideways in to this chamber. They are easily hidden later and prevent the hydraulic splitting of the post.
The threaded rod needs to be cleaned of oil, and you need to mark on the rod where it is going to be deep enough.
Grind 2 grooves longtitudeinally on the rod so the glue can be spread in to the grooves not just pushed down the hole. Smooth off the grinding a bit.
Use a small hammer to start, then turn using a vice grip to set the rod in to the hole.
The glue will set and harden the wood around the threads, and there will be excellent resistance to being pulled out.
Then bolt it on from below.
If you know a machine shop or a school for machinists, you might have a wood screw like a lag bolt machined on to the threaded rod.
this would avoid much dicking around
2007-01-15 12:16:02
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answer #5
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answered by MarkLight 3
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If the newel post will rest against a stair riser, it's best to bolt the newel post to the riser with at least two lag bolts, as far apart diagonally as you can get them, before covering the base with trim. This will provide the greatest resistance to sideways forces at the top of the newel post. Also make sure the railing is tightly secured to the newel post; it will add strength at the top.
2007-01-15 12:23:35
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answer #6
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answered by Rick K 2
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This Site Might Help You.
RE:
What is the best way to mount a newel post?
I know there are various mounting kits available, but I'm not sure what to use. I was thinking about drilling a 1 1/4" hole in the bottom of the post (and double floor joist below) and gluing a 1 1/4" dowel rod into it. Experienced advice would be appreciated.
2015-08-13 00:19:57
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answer #7
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answered by Haydon 1
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1
2017-01-25 17:15:53
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answer #8
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answered by verna 4
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YOU HAVE TO CUT INTO THE SHEETROCK, OR FLOOR & SECURE THE POST TO THE 2" FRAMING ( YOU MAY HAVE TO NOTCH IT TO FIT ) THERE IS NO GOO WAY TO SECURE IT FROM MOVEMENT, UNLESS IT IS ANCHORED TO THE FRAME!
2007-01-15 05:01:55
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answer #9
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answered by Bonno 6
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Sounds good.
2007-01-15 03:25:44
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answer #10
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answered by iamlsu 3
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