why is surfing inportant to you?

Question

why do you enjoy it and continue to participate in it?

Answer 1

Perfect Question!
When I was 5yrs Old..Daddy took me for the FIRST time into the Ocean, and alongside a Yellow Rennie Yater Shortboard about 4'8" TAUGHT me how to SURF!!!
I learned to talk, communicate in different ways, and CONNECT with the Ocean's of our amazing world!
I breathe different "Attitudes" of these Ocean's (*I have traveled around! *Europe, Asia, Hawaii, Australia, Colorado, California, NY, Puerto Rico, Italy, France, Germany,and so many more!*)
I DO NOT ride for "Fame" I ride for the simple FREEDOM of being swept off my feet by the strong, powerful current, that dis-envelopes itself as perfect pipes, curls, and beautiful waves....The Energy, The Feeling, The Love, The Passion That I have lived, learned, and EXPERIENCED all of my life, through SURFING, mutes me..I cannot express in enough words what energy, feeling, love, and extreme passion, I seem to experience, see, have, live, and feel! (*lol*)
I guess surfing for me means....LOVING THE OCEAN IN A D E E P MANNER!!! Riding it, like you ride a lover, Exploring it, like you Explore life, bodies, and perhaps a baby's world, Living it, like you would a life but with NO one to take over your life!
I don't know...but the Respect, Energy, source of powerful feelings, that I get from riding my surfboards along the clear water's of the ocean, closing my eyes as I fall in the deep sleeping, soothing sounds of the "crashing" distant waves and rippling waters, and Feeling the cool, savoring winds across my sun burning cheeks and forehead, delivering cool tingling sensations across my body....UNDESCRIBABLE, WONDERFUL, AMAZING....I will ride til' I die!
God Bless You...and if YOU are a SURFER
RIDE, BABY RIDE!!!
Surf's Up dude!!

*Ferrari Girl

Answer 2

YEAH-What Ferrari Girl said- =)

it's a wonderful feeling of freedom, the great excercise, an awesome way to spend the day with friends.

And as the saying goes, only a surfer knows the feeling

Answer 3

I like to ride that perfect wave. If it swells, ride it.....