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I have a 2001 VW Beetle Turbo and I have a problem. Whenever my engine is cold (and often when it is warm as well) my check engine light begins to flash and my car loses power and feels like it is going to stall (though it never has). The dealership looked at it and charged me money for things they said would fix it, but nothing they did ever fixed it. I then took it to a AAA approved mechanic. They gave me a new battery, new timing belt, new spark plugs, and new engine coils, but my car's still not fixed. They checked my catalytic converter, fuel injection, and various other parts, but everything appears to be fine. No codes are showing up on the diagnostic tests, and they basically gave up on my car. So does anyone have any ideas as to what the problem might be? Could it be the power supply relay switch? The oxygen sensor? Posessed by the devil? Somebody please help me!

Thanks.

2007-01-07 13:33:22 · 15 answers · asked by lwinter81 1 in Cars & Transportation Car Makes Volkswagen

15 answers

If the m i l light comes on then there will be a fault stored in the memory .?
common on turbo models.
1, split / leaking vacuum pipes.
2, air mass meter.
3, throttle housing req cleaning / basic settings preforming.
4, boost pressure sensor next to inter cooler .
5, split leaking engine breathers.
6, boost solenoid.
8, lamda probe

2007-01-10 07:24:03 · answer #1 · answered by Anonymous · 0 0

Normally when the things that you just described happens on a car like yours it is called being in "limp mode". When there is a problem with the ECU also known as the engine computer, the system is designed to go in that type of mode just enough to make the vehicle run so you can make the repairs neccesary to the car. Take it to a vw dealer only!!!!..... and if your a woman, dont go by yourself. Take a male figure with you so they wont give you the run around. The dealership is the only reliable source to have the system properly checked. and if the dealer you went to is not an esclusive vw dealer only then you made another mistake. There are other car dealers that sell vw's and work on them as well but it wont sufice. Remeber.....Exsclussive vw dealer only. thats all they sell there. Good luck.

2007-01-07 13:46:40 · answer #2 · answered by vankstwer 3 · 0 0

I had a 2001 Beetle with the 2.0 L and ran synthetic and i would change it every 3000 just cause i can get everything at a reduced price, but i would go between 4000 and 5000 on an oil change.

2016-03-29 15:10:33 · answer #3 · answered by Anonymous · 0 0

take it again to another mechanic
be smart and dont get fooled by some of their money tactics,

do some good research and give them possible places where the car has trouble, transmission, oxygen sensor, auto choke and all that

tell them your gonna sell it to the dealer and trade in for a new one,
so if theres a "real" problem they will fix with no F** around
100%





otherwise, theres really nothing wrong.and
keep using, once it breaks down
then we will know what the freak the problem is



also some of your repairs could have been under warranty?

hmm..i would check up into that too.

2007-01-07 13:38:29 · answer #4 · answered by pinoydj619 6 · 0 0

if the mil is flashing there should be faults present. vw has come out with a reflash for the ecm to correct coldstart misfires on various 1.8T's. i recommend take it to your nearest dealer for diag. And hold the shop accountable for thier diagnosis. if they said the timing belt,battery,spark plugs or coils was supposed to fix your concern and it didn't why should you have to pay again? P.S. your vehicle does not have a choke or an EGR system

2007-01-07 13:46:11 · answer #5 · answered by yellowno2 2 · 0 0

Your car is possessed by the devil.

but.... if You spray heavy duty silicone (or WD40) on the mechanism,shaft of.EGR system
check for leaks on EGR system.
You will kill that ghost.
any thing that has to do with entering air in the intake manifold with out regulations will kill that ghost

do not spend money in parts,do not change( the expensive) on board computer all of them are good.

P.S. if there was no codes why the Dealer's mechanic has change so many parts. Reap off?

2007-01-07 13:42:05 · answer #6 · answered by Anonymous · 0 1

First make sure your throttle unit is clean.If that has been done the next thing to try would be the Air Mass Meter.This can be faulty but not show up as the readings can be low but still within tolerance.

2007-01-08 10:41:20 · answer #7 · answered by yamyamjones 1 · 0 0

There are mechanics and Mechanics It's really money they are after. I suggest it would be less costly to wait till it gets worse. You have spent a lot of money on things that are nothing at all to do with the problem.

2007-01-07 21:13:06 · answer #8 · answered by Anonymous · 0 0

The automatic choke needs adjusting so it burns more fuel in those conditions. Same kind of thing used to happen to me while under breaking. With the clutch and break pedals down the revs would go to 0 rather than approx. 1000 revs/min and thus stall. THis would induce the steering lock and render me troubled. Scary.

2007-01-07 13:39:22 · answer #9 · answered by Oliver S 2 · 0 4

Have you checked your inline fuel filter,as i had problems one time and found it blocked up.The other one is the filter in the tank outlet.

2007-01-07 15:45:26 · answer #10 · answered by restfullone 3 · 0 0

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