Becoming a dog trainer.?

Question

I've finally decided that I want to become a dog trainer. And I was just wondering how much money can you make? I really would love to do this, and basically wondering if I am going to need another job, or can I solely rely on this.
Thanks!

Answer 1

It will depend on how good you are and the area you live in.

Many trainers, especially at kennel clubs and non-profit schools have volunteers. That is probably the best way to start, until you become known and have a following of your own.

To do this, enter your dog in obedience classes at your local kennel club. After some time, if you are good, they may ask you to teach. If there is a specific trainer that you admire, attach yourself to her and learn all you can.

Of course, it does take years to be a good trainer and become known.

Answer 2

Please read katie's answer. It's long but it's helpful!

Answer 3

is the process of teaching a dog to exhibit certain desired behaviors in specific circumstances. Some examples are:

Teaching a dog basic obedience commands (part of obedience training)
Teaching a dog to perform tricks casually or for circus acts
Teaching a guide dog to lead the blind
Teaching a rescue dog to find victims of a disaster
Helping a hunting dog learn to perform its instinctive behaviors at appropriate times
The specific behaviors taught in each case are different, but the underlying principles are similar.

In the wild as pack animals, canines have natural instincts that favor training. These instincts are manifested when the dog lives with humans as a desire to please a handler, as a dog would please senior members in a pack in the wild. The handler is simply whoever is working with a dog at the time.


Most dogs, no matter their eventual advanced training or intended purpose, live with people and therefore must behave in a way that makes them pleasant to have around and for their own safety and that of other people and pets. Dogs do not figure out basic obedience on their own; they must be trained.

The hardest part of this process is communicating with your dog in a humane way that he understands. Communication is possible by praising positive behavior while ignoring or correcting negative behavior. It is critical to remember that you never punish a dog if they respond to a recall (come or here) command. The recall command is the most important of all training commands, if you punish a dog when they come to you the dog quickly learns that if he returns to you he will be punished. If the dog is misbehaving you go to the dog and correct them or punish them, the dog should not be asked to come to you and then punished for doing so. The dog does not understand that what he was doing before he came to you was what you were punishing him for.

"Correction" should never include harmful physical force or violence (i.e., no rolled up newspaper) because even if it makes the dog stop the behavior in the short term, it will make your dog fear you rather than want to make you happy by doing what you ask. Correction technique varies by individual and among trainers. A simple technique is to attach a collar and "lead" (fancy term for a leash, usually short, 4' is good); JUST AS the negative behavior happens use a command to correct it (i.e., Sparky is jumping up on a guest, say "off" if he's already jumped up, or if you see he's thinking about it say, "down"). If the command is ignored then "correct" Sparky by "snapping" the lead to make his collar rattle.


[edit] Puppies and learning
The prenatal period is a recent addition to the developmental periods of puppies. It is thought that “long-term effects on behavioral development may also be produced in some mammals by events occurring in utero.” (Serpell, 1995, p. 80) Previous studies tended to overlook the existence of this period, since the puppy’s behavior could not be observed. With the development of the ultrasound machine, a puppy could be observed within the mother as early as the fourth week of gestation.

It was found that puppies would react to touch and/or pressure from the outside of the mother’s abdomen. In addition, it is theorized that since puppies have such a well-developed sense of touch at birth, the sense of touch would also be well-developed before birth. Puppies may be sensitive to touch received by the mother while still unborn. Studies have found that “when a pregnant animal is petted her litter is more docile (Denenberg and Whimbey 1963, in Fox 1978).” According to Fox (1975, in Fox 1978) this facilitates relaxation, emotional attachment, and socialization as well. Other studies have indicated that puppies that receive outside contact (petting of the mother) while in utero have a higher tolerance for touching than puppies who receive no contact at all. One could deduce that gentle petting of the mother’s abdomen could help to facilitate positive, beneficial puppy socialization with people.

During the first two weeks of a puppy's life, also known as the neonate period, puppies can learn simple associations. (Serpell, 1995) However, early experience events are unlikely to carry over into later periods. Studies indicate that puppies in the neonate period do not seem to learn by experience. (Scott and Fuller, 1965) It is theorized that this is due to the fact that the puppy’s brain, sense, and motor organs are still undeveloped. Based on its limited capacity to sense and learn it would be difficult to affect the puppy psychologically, either in a positive or negative sense. (Scott and Fuller, 1965)

The next period of development is known as the socialization period. This is arguably the most important developmental period, beginning around 3 weeks (21 days) old, and ending around 12 weeks old. (Beaver, 1999) The biggest aspect of this period is social play. Social investigation (curiosity), playful fighting and playful sexual behavior (body contact) is very important to developing social relationships during its life. (Scott and Fuller, 1965) New behavior patterns are directly influenced by the puppy’s interaction with its mother and other puppies in the litter.

This is a time for developing social relationships, both among other puppies as well as with people. These behaviors are relatively easy for any individual who stays with the puppies during this period. However, there is a point where the puppies can develop a fear of strangers. At 3-5 weeks of age, puppies will actively approach strangers. Shortly thereafter stranger avoidance begins and slowly escalates until it peaks around 12-14 weeks of age. (Beaver, 1999) While this natural fear of strangers could serve as a way to keep a curious puppy away from predators, it can also hinder normal relationships with people.

During this period, startle reactions to sudden movement and sounds is now present. This serves to help the puppy learn to differentiate between which events are dangerous, and which events are safe or insignificant. (Scott and Fuller, 1965) During the socialization period, the development of attachment to certain locations occurs. This is displayed by an extreme disturbance in the puppy whenever a change in location occurs. This is known as “localization”. (Serpell, 1995) “Localization” often peaks in puppies between 6-7 weeks old (Scott and Fuller, 1965), and then tapers off after that time to the point where a change in location is no longer distressing to the puppy.

Dogs that are handled and petted by humans regularly during the first eight weeks of life are generally much more amenable to being trained and living in human households. Ideally, puppies should be placed in their permanent homes between about 8 and 10 weeks of age. In some places it is against the law to take puppies away from their mothers before the age of 8 weeks. Before this age, puppies are still learning tremendous amounts of socialization skills from their mother. Puppies are innately more fearful of new things during the period from 10 to 12 weeks, which makes it harder for them to adapt to a new home.

Puppies can begin learning tricks and commands as early as 8 weeks of age; the only limitations are the pup's stamina, concentration, and physical coordination. It is much easier to live with young dogs that have already learned basic commands such as sit. Waiting until the puppy is older and has already learned undesirable habits makes the training much more challenging. (Beaver, 1999; Lindsay, 2000; Scott and Fuller 1965; Serpell 1995)


[edit] Basic training classes
Professional "dog trainers" usually do not train the dogs, but actually train the owners on how to train their own dogs. Although it is also possible to send a dog away to a training school, the owner still must at some point learn what the dog has learned and how to use and reinforce the techniques. Some call this a shortcut, but plenty of work is still required and training must continue over the course of the dog's life. Owners and dogs who attend class together have an opportunity to learn more about each other and how to work together under a trainer's guidance. Training is most effective if everyone who handles the dog takes part in the training to ensure consistent commands, methods, and enforcement. Classes also help socialize your dog to other people and dogs. Ask your vet or the owner of a well behaved dog for recommendations in your area.

Formal training in classes is not always available until the puppy has completed all its vaccinations at around 4 months; however, some trainers offer puppy socialization classes in which puppies can enroll immediately after being placed in their permanent homes as long as disease risk is minimal and puppies have received initial vaccinations. In most cases, basic training classes accept only puppies who are at least 3 to 6 months old.


[edit] Communicating with the dog
Fundamentally, dog training is about communication. From the human perspective the handler is communicating to the dog what behaviors are correct, desired, or preferred in what circumstances. From the canine perspective the handler must communicate what behaviors will give the dog the most satisfaction to his natural instincts and emotions. Without that inner satisfaction a dog will not work well.

A successful handler must also understand the communication that the dog sends to the handler. The dog can signal that he is unsure, confused, nervous, happy, excited, and so on. The emotional state of the dog is an important consideration in directing the training, as a dog that is stressed or distracted will not learn efficiently.

According to Learning Theory there are four important messages that the handler can send the dog:

Reward or release marker
Correct behavior. You have earned a reward. For example, "Free" or "Okay" followed by a reward.
Keep going signal
Correct behavior. Continue and you will earn a reward. For example, "Good" or "Come on".
No reward marker
Incorrect behavior. Try something else. For example, "Uh-uh" or "Try again".
Punishment marker
Incorrect behavior. You have earned punishment. For example, "No" or more specific commands like "off," "out," or "leave it."
Using consistent signals or words for these messages enables the dog to understand them more quickly. If the handler sometimes says "good" as a reward marker and sometimes as a keep going signal, it is difficult for the dog to know when he has earned a reward.

It is important to note that the dog's reward is not the same as the reward marker. The reward marker is a signal that tell the dog that he has earned the reward. Many novice dog owners make the mistake of using effusive verbal praise as both a reward marker and a reward, which can confuse dog and owner.

Rewards can be praise, treats, play, or anything that the dog finds rewarding. Failure to reward after the reward marker diminishes the value of the reward marker and makes training more difficult.

These four messages do not have to be communicated with words, and nonverbal signals are often used. In particular, mechanical clickers are frequently used for the reward marker. Hand signals and body language also play an important part in learning for dogs. The meanings of the four signals are taught to the dog through repetition, so that he may form an association by classical conditioning. For example, if the handler consistently gives the dog a reward marker immediately before he gives the dog a food treat, the dog soon will learn to associate the reward marker with receiving something pleasant (clicker trainers call forming this association "charging up" the clicker). Likewise, if the dog is always given a punishment marker before he is scolded or put outside for bad behaviour, he will soon learn to associate the punishment marker with the punishment itself.

Dogs usually do not generalize commands easily; that is, a dog who has learned a command in a particular location and situation may not immediately recognize the command to other situations. A dog who knows how to "down" in the living room may suffer genuine confusion if asked to "down" at the park or in the car. The command will need to be retaught in each new situation, though it may be substantially easier after being taught at home where there are fewer distractions. This is sometimes called "cross-contextualization," meaning the dog has to apply what's been learned to many different contexts.


[edit] Reward and punishment
Most training revolves around giving the dog consequences for his behaviour, in the hope of influencing the behaviour the dog will exhibit in the future. Operant conditioning defines four types of consequences:

Positive reinforcement adds something to the situation to increase the chance of the behaviour being exhibited again (for example, giving a dog a treat when he sits.)

Negative reinforcement removes something from the situation to increase the chance of the behaviour being exhibited again (for example, releasing the tension on an uncomfortable training collar when the dog stops pulling on the leash).

Positive punishment adds something to the situation to decrease the chance of the behaviour being exhibited again (for example, verbally growling at a dog to make it stop jumping up).

Negative punishment removes something from the situation to decrease the chance of the behaviour being exhibited again (for example, walking away from a dog who jumps up).

Most modern trainers say that they use "positive training methods", which is a different meaning of the word "positive" from that in operant conditioning. "Positive training methods" generally means preferring the use of reward-based training to increase good behavior over that of physical punishment to decrease bad behavior. However, a good trainer understands all four methods, whether or not they can put operant-conditioning terminology to them, and applies them as appropriate for the dog, the breed, the handler, and the situation.


[edit] Rewards
Positive reinforcers can be anything that the dog finds rewarding - special food treats, the chance to play with a tug toy, social interaction with other dogs, or the owner's attention. The more rewarding a dog finds a particular reinforcer, the more work he will be prepared to do in order to obtain the reinforcer.

It is important that the dog is not "bribed" to perform. In dog training, the term "bribery" means that the dog is aware of the presence of the reward before he is asked to complete the command. The risk with bribery is that the dog will refuse to comply with commands when he cannot see the reward, since he knows from experience that he will only be rewarded when he can see the reward. Experienced trainers will hide the reward from the dog, and only produce the reward once the dog has already complied with the command. The goal is to produce a dog who will perform even on occasions that the handler has no reward to offer, since the dog's training has taught him that the handler may have a reward even if the dog cannot see it.

Some trainers go through a process of teaching a puppy to strongly desire a particular toy, in order to make the toy a more powerful positive reinforcer for good behaviour. This process is called "building prey drive", and is commonly used in the training of Narcotics Detection and Police Service dogs. The goal is to produce a dog who will work independently for long periods of time, in the hopes of earning access to its special toy reward.


[edit] Punishments
Positive punishment is probably the consequence that is least used by modern dog trainers, as it must be used very carefully. A dog is generally only given this type of punishment if it is willfully disobeying the owner. Punishing a dog who does not understand what is being asked of him is not only unfair to the dog, but can make the dog a fearful or unwilling worker.

Punishments are administered only as appropriate for the dog's personality, age, and experience. A sharp No works for many dogs, but some dogs even show signs of fear or anxiety with harsh verbal corrections. On the other hand, certain dogs with 'harder' temperaments may ignore a verbal reprimand, and may work best if the reprimand for a serious offence is coupled with a physical punishment such as a quick tug on a training collar. Trainers generally advise keeping hand contact with the dog to positive interactions; if hands are used to threaten or hurt, some dogs may begin to behave defensively when stroked or handled.


[edit] Avoiding punishment
Keeping a puppy on a leash in challenging situations or in his crate or pen when not closely supervised prevents the puppy from getting into situations that might otherwise invite an owner's harsh reaction (such as chewing up a favorite pair of shoes).


[edit] The command voice
When giving commands to a dog, a calm, firm, authoritative voice is most effective. Dogs do not respond well to hesitant, pleading voices, nor to yelling, which might sound to the dog like threatening barking or scolding. It is also important that the word used for the command and the pitch of the voice be consistent each time the command is delivered so that the dog can more easily learn what the owner means (siiiiiiiiiiiit does not sound the same as sit, for example).

Using the puppy's name before a command ensures that the dog knows that a command is coming, that it is for him (rather than for other dogs, children, or people), and that he should pay attention. This is important because dogs hear a lot of human speech that has no relevance for them at all, and it is easy for them to disregard commands amongst the babble.

To reinforce the command, the dog always gets some kind of reward or reinforcement (praise and usually a treat or toy) when it performs the action correctly. This helps the dog to understand that he has done a good thing.

Note that not all dogs are trained to voice command. Many working breeds of dog are not trained to a voice command at all; they are taught to obey a combination of whistles and hand signals. Deaf dogs are perfectly capable of learning to obey visual signals alone. Many obedience classes teach hand signals for common commands in addition to voice signals; these signals can be useful in quiet situations, at a distance, and in advanced obedience competitions.

The specific command words are not important, although common words in English include sit, down, come, and stay. Short, clear words that are easily understood by other humans are generally recommended; that way, people will understand what a handler is telling his dog to do and other handlers have a good chance of controlling someone else's dog if necessary. In fact, dogs can learn commands in any language or other communications medium, including whistles, mouth sounds, hand gestures, and so forth.


[edit] Training tricks
Many dog owners teach their dogs tricks. This serves several purposes: it develops a stronger relationship between the dog and human, it provides entertainment, and it engages the dog's mind, which can help to alleviate problems caused by boredom. For example, the shake hands trick involves the dog raising its paw and placing it into an outstretched hand. An example of a useful trick is teaching a dog to ring a bell to go outside. This helps prevent the stress placed on an owner when trying to recognize whether the dog needs to relieve itself. For more information, see clicker training or bridge and target training.

Many habits can come up with different dogs. Begging at dinner should not be seen. Don't pay attention to your dog at dinner time, and your dog will notice that you won't give them food.


[edit] Electronic training
One of the most controversial training methods involves using a "remote training collar", otherwise known as an "e-collar" or "shock collar". However, it must be noted that no manufacturer refers to their product as a "shock collar". This term is used almost primarily by the detractors of the tool.

As with other training methods, whether this tool is cruel or humane generally depends on the user. Modern remote collars have many different settings, ranging from so low that it is difficult to perceive the sensation at all, to uncomfortably or even painfully high. Which settings are used depends on the goal of the trainer for the particular dog.

There are several different ways to use an e-collar in training, depending on the goal of the exercise and the trainers preferred methods. The most common method is to use the collar as an operant conditioning tool (a negative punishment, in this case) to encourage rapid and reliable response to commands the dog has already learned, especially when the trainer is a substantial distance away from the dog. The collar is set at a fairly low level -- somewhat annoying to the dog, but not painful or even very distracting. When the command is given, the collar button is pressed either immediately or after a very short delay. As soon as the dog completes the command, the collar button is released. It can be understood that the purpose of this procedure is to teach the dog that he or she controls the collar, not the owner. From the dog's perspective, the dog's own actions (performing the command or ignoring the command) turn the collar on and off. When training via this method, it is critically important that the collar only be used for commands the dog already knows, and that the stimulation setting be low enough that the dog is not visibly upset or seriously distracted by it -- otherwise the training experience becomes painful, scary and confusing. Once a dog forms negative associations with the training process itself, any further progress becomes quite difficult.

The e-collar can also be used as a classical conditioning tool. By consistently pairing a more intense shock with an undesirable behavior, the dog forms a negative association and is less likely to perform the behavior in the future. The most well-known use of classical conditioning with e-collars is probably the anti-bark collar. These products do not have a remote control, but instead detect the dog's barking and deliver a shock (or, in the case of some products, a puff of citronella oil). A human-controlled e-collar can also be used for classical conditioning, but it should be noted that this training procedure (especially in the hands of an inexperienced and inconsiderate trainer) has the most potential for abuse.

One important consideration when using an e-collar for training is that the dog's perception of the shock appears to vary greatly depending on the environment and the dog's state of mind. In noisy and busy surroundings when the dog is very excited and distracted, the dog may show absolutely no response to a stimulation level that would be painful under calmer circumstances. It is thus very important to always monitor the stimulation level and constantly adjust it based on the dog's response, increasing it slowly until the optimal level of annoyance is produced and reducing it again as the situation changes. Failure to monitor and adjust the stimulation level may result in either ineffective training (no response) or pain for the dog (unacceptable).

Remote collars can also be used for other purposes besides normal behavior modification. Some trainers use very low settings as a way of getting the attention of deaf dogs, when the dog is at a distance or not facing the handler. In this case, the stimulation is not used as a punishment to modify behavior, but as a substitute for verbally calling the dog's name. Many newer collars include a vibrate feature (like a cell phone vibrator) or an audio pager which can be used for this purpose. These features can be classically associated with the "come" command so the dog can be called back to the handler from a great distance without verbal communication.

Remote collar training is especially popular for working dogs involved in retrieving, search and rescue, and other activities where the dog is off-leash and far from the handler. The collar is very useful in these circumstances because it can completely replace the use of a leash in the training process, allowing the handler to work from a long distance while still delivering instant feedback to the dog. This type of long-distance obedience training is normally quite difficult to achieve, but becomes much easier with the collar. The e-collar can also function as an "emergency stop button" for an off-leash working dog who may be tempted to wander into traffic, cacti, skunks, or other danger -- though this is purely a backup and should not be relied upon as a substitute for solid obedience training.

When used by inexperienced trainers, e-collars can confuse and scare dogs. Training from an experienced professional is strongly recommended if you wish to use an e-collar, to ensure that you are using the collar correctly. Much of the opposition to e-collar training arises from inappropriate use by unqualified trainers. The training experience as a whole is not supposed to be unpleasant for the dog. In fact, is is often a necessity that working dogs enjoy their training activities (especially for search and rescue, detection, and other play-driven jobs). This enjoyment of the "game" forms the entire basis of the dog's working drive. It is very much possible (normal, in fact) for dogs to enjoy a training regimen based on appropriate use of an e-collar in combination with positive reinforcement rewards and praise. Maintaining this overall enjoyment of the training regimen is not difficult at all if the collar is used properly and humanely by a qualified trainer.


[edit] Teething
At anywhere from three to six months of age, a puppy begins to get its adult set of teeth. This period can be quite painful and many owners do not recognize the natural need to chew. By providing specific chew toys designed to ease the pain of teething (such as a frozen nylon bone), attention can be diverted from table legs and other furniture. Many people also use a bad-tasting, bad-smelling spray on favorite items, such as shoes, furniture, or even wallpaper, to discourage chewing. Bitter apple is a commonly used spray, but there are several commercial sprays available. Different sprays work better for different applications, owners, or puppies.