House train a dog (PLEASE HELP)?

Question

I recently got a four year old boxer. He's a really good dog, but he continues to pee in my house in the same spot. I need to know what to do. I work from 7:30 to 4:30 and usually get home by 5. I don't want to get rid of him because he's been bounced around so much and he' grown on me. What can I do.

Answer 1

This is what my cousin did. You take classes on how to train your dog in a certain place or something. There is doggy daycare. Dogs are well kept there.

Answer 2

THE ANSWER IS VERY SIMPLE:

You must ensure this breed of dog gets plenty of exercise. If you cannot walk your dog in the morning before you leave buy a TRED MILL and put the dog on that whilst your eating breakfast etc. Your dog will be tired out - Then feed the dog it's breakfast.
Don't make a fuss of leaving your house or entering it when coming back from work. Dont make eye contact with the dog - Dont talk to the dog or even stroke it for twenty mins. When the dog is calm after the 20 mins praise it and show affection. Your dog will understand that it has to be calm. Ofcourse - You are out of your home for a long period. CAN ANYONE GO TO YOUR HOME AND LET THE DOG OUTSIDE TO PEE AROUND LUNCH TIME ETC.

Answer 3

It is not a matter of house breaking so keep the crate out of if.

The pet stores sell cummerbuns for male dogs marking their territory, which is what your dog (new to your house) is doing. You insert a pad (same ones for women) into the band and velcro it around his waist. My boy did the same thing when we brought a new dog into the home. He is seven and hadn't peed in the house since he was 10 weeks old, until she came along. After a few weeks he stopped, with rare exception. I also use the apple spray. And, take the band off when you are home, they will get a rash.

My sister in law had a male bichon and her vet said that it was because he was not neutered, that neutered males won't spray or mark. Lies. She had him fixed when he was 5 and it soured his disposition for months, and didn't stop the marking at all.

Remember, it isn't something your dog has control over, he is going on instinct and you have to understand that and not punish him for it. He will soon feels he owns your house and it will stop.

Bissell puts out a great cleaner.

And, for real house breaking, there are wee wee pads that have a chemical in them that attract animals when they feel the urge to urinate. Worked like a charm for my new dog.

Answer 4

First you need to crate train your dog. There's a lot of info available on the net for that. Just follow one cardinal rule... do not use the crate to punish your dog.

Then clean the spot with one of the enzymatic cleaners that are available in every pet shop. It does the best job of removing the smell so even the dog can't detect it.

Feed and water your dog only in the evening when you get home until this is corrected. After feeding take the dog out and let him do his thing. If he doesn't go after a little outside time take him in and watch him carefully. When he looks like he's ready to go (you'll learn the signs soon enough) take him right outside. Praise him when he goes outside. Scold him when he goes inside.

Hope that helps.

Answer 5

Crate train him like you would a puppy or keep him outside in a secure yard with good protection from the weather til housebroken.

To potty train...Put a body harness on your dog and a 5-6 foot long leash. Whenever the dog is inside and not crated than tie the leash to your belt..so you will be constantly seeing the dog. When you see it start to search/circle/signal otherwise that it needs to go, walk the dog immediately outside to an appriopriate potty area. Make sure you use your chosen command word, give plenty of praise and treat when completed (make sure you have treats in your pocket, don't delay with rewarding the dog). Do this until your dog is consistently trying to drag you to the door to show you that it needs to go outside.

Make sure you've cleaned the inside of the house of all priors accidents, this means not just getting rid of the visible stains but of the enzymes..use a good cleaner rated for cleaning biological stains and odors... I use Orange TKO (it's great for anything in the house [laundry, bedding, general cleaning] and safe for pets) or Nature's Miracle...make sure you buy the dog formula.

Answer 6

I would try and crate train him. Also when he pees in that spot take him over there, put his nose right in front of the spot and tell him no. Continue to do this until he doesn't go in the house anymore. Day after day until he stops.

Answer 7

You can get a spiced apple scented spray and put in onto the spot where he pee's. USUALLY they will not go there because the scent bothers them. With my puppy, I got her a kenal and she goes in everyday when I go to work. Dogs will normally not go where they sleep. Everyday when you get home, let her out at the same time and praise her for going out.

Try that for a couple months and then start weening her out of the kennel. See how that works. It is working for my lab.

Answer 8

Being domicile knowledgeable skill that he's domicile broken and could no longer bypass to the bathing room on your flooring. they are in all probability inquiring for a quiet domicile environment with the aid of fact he/she ought to have come from a bad project in the event that they are at a rescue (and little canines tend to be jumpier than their larger opposite numbers). To make him gentle around you and your loved ones you should take it slow and don't be insulted if he does not run as much as you genuine away brimming with excitement. he will ought to heat as much as you and it ought to take a little time, yet i'm confident he could want to be in a house with somebody who will love him. he will heat up in in all probability some week to 2 months. you should allow the dogs understand that they could have confidence you to furnish them their common desires and a few love and care.

Answer 9

CRATE TRAIN!!!!!! It doesn't matter how old or young your dog may be.
Crate Training Your Dog
Crate training your dog may take some time and effort, but can be useful in a variety of situations. If you have a new dog or puppy, you can use the crate to limit his access to the house until he learns all the house rules, such as what he can and can’t chew and where he can and can’t eliminate. A crate is also a safe way of transporting your dog in the car, as well as a way of taking him places where he may not be welcome to run freely. If you properly train your dog to use the crate, he will think of it as his safe place and will be happy to spend time there when needed. Always provide water for your dog anytime he is in the crate. Spill proof bowls or bowls that attach to the kennel gate work best.

Selecting A Crate
Crates may be plastic (often called “flight kennels”) or collapsible, metal pens. Collapsible fabric kennels are designed for use when the owner is present and may not contain a dog for long periods while unsupervised. Crates come in different sizes and can be purchased at most pet supply stores. Your dog’s crate should be large enough for him to stand up and turn around in.

The Crate Training Process
Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog’s age, temperament and past experiences. It’s important to keep two things in mind while crate training; one, the crate should always be associated with something pleasant; and two, training should take place in a series of small steps – don’t go too fast.

Step 1: Introducing Your Dog To The Crate
• Put the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Bring your dog over to the crate and talk to him in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is securely fastened open so it won’t hit your dog and frighten him.

• To encourage your dog to enter the crate, drop small food treats near it, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If he refuses to go all the way in at first, that’s okay – don’t force him to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If he isn’t interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days.

Step 2: Feeding Your Dog His Meals In The Crate
• After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding him his regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, put the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If your dog is still reluctant to enter the crate, put the
dish only as far inside as he will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed him, place the dish a little further back in the crate.

• Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat his meal, you can close the door while he’s eating. At first, open the door as soon as he finishes his meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until he’s staying in the crate for 10 minutes or so after eating. If he begins to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving him in the crate for a shorter time period. If he does whine or cry in the crate, it’s imperative that you not let him out until he stops. Otherwise, he’ll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine and he’ll keep
doing it.
Step 3: Conditioning Your Dog To The Crate For Longer Time Periods
• After your dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine him there for short time periods while you’re home. Call him over to the crate and give him a treat. Give him a command to enter, such as, “kennel up.” Encourage him by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat
in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise him, give him the treat and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to 10 minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time, then let him out of the crate.
• Repeat this process several times a day. With each repetition, gradually increase the length of time you leave him in the crate and the length of time you’re out of his sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you out of sight the majority of the time, you can begin leaving him crated
when you’re gone for short time periods and/or letting him sleep there at night. This may take several days or several weeks.

Step 4:
Part A – Crating Your Dog When Left Alone
After your dog is spending about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving him crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put him in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave him with a few safe toys in the crate (see our handout, “Dog Toys and How to Use Them”). You’ll want to vary at what point in your “getting ready to leave” routine you put your dog in the crate. Although he shouldn’t be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate him anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving.
Don’t make your departures emotional and prolonged, but matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give him a treat for entering the crate and then leave quietly. When you return home, don’t reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to him in an excited, enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low key. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you’re home so he doesn’t associate crating with being left alone.

Part B – Crating Your Dog At Night
Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night, and you’ll want to be able to hear your puppy when he whines to
be let outside. Older dogs, too, should initially be kept nearby so that crating doesn’t become associated with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with his crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer. Puppies that are healthy can have their water taken from them a few hours before bedtime to help decrease the frequency of potty trips they need to make during the night.

Potential Problems
Too Much Time In The Crate
A crate isn’t a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog can feel trapped and frustrated. For example, if your dog is crated all day while you’re at work and then crated again all night, he’s spending too much time in too small a space. Other arrangements should be made to accommodate his physical and emotional needs. Also, remember that puppies under 6 months of age shouldn’t stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a time. They can’t control their bladders and bowels for longer periods.

Whining
If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether he’s whining to be let out of the crate, or whether he needs to be let outside to eliminate. If you followed the training procedures outlined above, your dog hasn’t been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from his crate. Try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, he’ll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at him or pounding on
the crate will only make things worse. If the whining continues after you’ve ignored him for several minutes, use the phrase he associates with going outside to eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you’re convinced that your dog doesn’t need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore him until he stops whining. Do not give in, otherwise you’ll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what he wants. If you’ve progressed gradually through the training steps and haven’t done too much too fast, you will be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again.

Separation Anxiety
Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety will not solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but he may injure himself in an attempt to escape from the crate. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counter-conditioning and desensitization pocedures (see our handout, “Separation Anxiety”).
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