Is this gonna help my cat get close to me?

Question

Is this gonna help my cat get close to me?
ok I had this cat like 3 months and believe me nothing worked this cat wont let us get close to him he is gorgeous orange long hair with gold eyes BUT his personality is terrible.... he hissed when you get close to him we have touch him but in like random situations like when he is in the closet and we try to warm him up a little he only comes out in the night when we go to sleep and he hides under our bed all day long .... What my BF and I decided to do is to send it to a shelter but when we called this lady from the shelter she made us feel like s-h-i-t, saying that we have to learn to love it and to get use to his personality because if we take him to the shelter he is going to get killed. . Our 55th plan was to block all his hiding places and when ever he walks out of our room in the night we shot the door and that way he can just get used to us being around him doing what we normally do during the day he has his little bed and all that in the living room ….. I woke up today and I see the cabinet open ( we taped that door ) some how he opened it ………. I am going to wait till he comes out of that cabinet and tide the door with a rope and force him to be around us what you think? I am not going to get close to him but at least he will be around humans

Answer 1

did you get this cat after he was grown.. cuz if so he is already set in his ways... he may never trust you or it could take a really long time... if he is really bad off then find him another place to go or open the front door and let him out...

Answer 2

I agree with the answers you have received so far, If it is a older cat , set in its ways and not had much positive interaction with people it may never change.
Ever tried to approach a young farm cat--impossible
Water, feed, keep litter box clean but do not force your self on it or block its hiding places, as that is were it feels comfortable.
use fluffy or feathery cat toy, see if you can get some interaction-- build it or buy a multi level cat tree, 4 or 5 feet tall--cats like high places--never use you hand as a toy-- it may in time respond to kindness.

It would help to read a book on cat behavior

Answer 3

Don't block his hidyholes. That will frighten him. Cats hate not having an exit. This cat has been scared of people and three months is not enough time to get over it. It could take years. He may never be a cuddle cat. My cat will not let me pick her up. She decides when she will sit on me and she decides when she will get off.
Whatever he lived with before must have been intolerable to him. He has to learn that this place is different. He must be allowed to interact with people on his own terms and be loved for who he is. If you force sociability on him you will just reinforce his belief that people are bad.

Answer 4

If he was not around you or people when he was a kitten he may never change but these below might help:
(1)Maybe have a party or a get together or something like that(2) Try offering him some food or cat treats(3) Sit by his food bowl with treats in it or canned food in it then he will get hungry & have to eat.

Answer 5

Just give him time. One of these days you'll find him sitting on your lap.Just keep feeding him and talk to him he will come around. You don't say what his living conditions were like before you got him, he could have been traumatized.It just may take some time for him to come around cats are normally very affectionate.

Answer 6

When introducing any cat into a new home, there is one thing all cats need--time to adjust to their new space. You can make the adjustment period shorter by letting your cat get to know his or her new home slowly. Many adopters hesitate to confine their cats, thinking it is "mean" but the nicest thing you could do for your cat is give him a "safe space" at first.

Cats are territorial by nature, and their first priority in any situation is establishing and knowing their territory. Only once they are comfortable in their space can they feel comfortable eating, drinking, resting and eliminating.

The safe space should be a small, quiet room (bathrooms, small offices or large walk-in closets are all good candidates) without any hiding spaces such as under the tub or bed, behind a bookshelf, etc. You don't want to have to pull your cat out of hiding to interact with him--that would be getting your visit off to a very bad start. However, you can provide your cat with an acceptable hiding space by tipping a box on its side and putting a towel inside. Many cats also like cat cozies or tee-pee style beds.

The room should be set up with a litterbox on one end of the room, and the food, water and bedding as far away from the litterbox as possible. The cat should be given some safe toys to play with, and should be given visits while confined to this space. Start off slow when visiting your kitty--don't do to much petting or interacting until the cat has had some time to "settle in". Sit in the room and see if the cat will approach you; if not, offer her your hand to sniff and try some gentle face pets. Give your cat frequent breaks and work up to more handling. Be patient and remember, the more love, the quicker they will adjust.

Confinement is especially crucial for shy or fearful cats. Many cats are overwhelmed when they first move into a new place; this is normal behavior. However, for a cat that is fearful by nature, it is even more terrifying to be in an unfamiliar space. Given the free run of the house, a scared cat will often bolt around, looking for a safe place to hide. Many cats injure themselves running into furniture or walls in a panic. They may also hide somewhere unsafe (such as under the stove, inside a reclining chair), and stay in hiding for several days. They may forego eating, or even urinate or defecate in their hiding space. The "safe room" gives them a small space where they feel secure, and will also make them more sociable with you--the less they are worried about their territory, the more interested in YOU they will be! By providing your scared kitty with a cozy or box to hide in, you are making her feel safe in a way that also allows you to pet her while she is hiding (as opposed to trying to crawl under your bed to interact with her!).

You may be wondering when you can be sure that it's okay to let your kitty out of her safe space. For some cats, the confinement period will be only a few hours--for others it could be several weeks. The important thing is that you do not rush your cat into being exposed to more space than she can handle. You will want to see all of the following:

1. The cat is performing his or her natural functions: eating, resting, grooming, using the litterbox.
2. The cat is responsible, allowing you to pet and play with her.
3. The cat is comfortable with you doing normal activities in the room and is not afraid of you when you stand up or walk around.
4. The cat is showing some interest in getting out of the room.

Don't mistake just one signal for readiness. Even a very scared cat may meow or scratch at the door for attention. This does not mean the cat is ready to explore more space--for example, if you notice that the cat meows at the door, but when you open the door, he runs and cowers back in his bed or box, he's not ready.
When possible, expand a cat's territory slowly (especially for fearful cats). You could close all the doors to bedrooms and allow the cat to first explore the hallway and rooms that do not close off (such as the kitchen and living room). If at anytime your cat seems overwhelmed, return him to his safe room for a few hours and try introducing him to the rest of the house later.

Don't feel bad for confining your kitty at first. It will help him relax and adjust to his new surroundings much quicker. The sooner he adjusts, the sooner he will have full run of the house, and the sooner he will feel comfortable in his new home!