how do I time an escort1.9 1991 if the teeth are off the belt?

Question

want step by step procedures

Answer 1

The following instructions are based on the assumption that you are going to perform the repairs yourself, so here it goes:

Jack the front of the car up high enough where BOTH front wheels are off the ground.

Remove right/front wheel cover for access to wheel nuts. With an impact gun, remove the four 21mm wheel nuts, and remove the wheel.

Remove the four 10mm bolts holding the plastic shield underneath right/front corner of vehicle, in order to gain access to crank pulley.

With a 3/8 drive rachet, insert into drive belt tensioner and pull tensioner in a CLOCKWISE direction (toward the front of car). With one hand on ratchet handle holding the tensioner released, slip the belt off the alternator pulley at the top, and remove belt. I know it may be tight.

Remove the four 10mm bolts that secure the power steering line to the body and alternator bracket, as well as the one 10mm nut securing it to the right side strut tower.

Remove the one 17mm nut and one 17mm bolt holding the engine mount counterweight to the top of the engine mount.

Position a floor jack with a block of wood on top under the engine oil pan with the handle on the FRONT side of vehicle. Jack up the jack until the block of wood is supporting the engine.

Remove the two 17mm nuts and spacers connecting the engine mount to the bracket. With a 17mm wrench holding the nut on side facing the firewall, remove the 17mm bolt securing the engine mount to the body. Remove the mount.

Using an impact gun with extension and 19mm socket, remove the crankshaft pulley bolt. Remove the pulley. Find a suitable washer and reinstall the bolt with washer temporarily onto crankshaft.

Remove the two 10 or 11mm nuts that hold the timing cover to the engine. Remove the cover for access to timing belt.

With a 10mm wrench, loosen the timing belt tensioner bolt that sits above the water pump sprocket. With a prybar anchoring on one of th studs that support the engine cover that you removed, pry the timing belt tensioner pulley TOWARD THE FRONT of the vehicle and retighten the bolt so that it holds the tensioner in the RELEASED position, TAKING CARE NOT TO BEND THE STUD, OR DAMAGING THE PULLEY.

With the timing belt removed, align the crankshaft sprocket timing mark (I think it's a dot) with the engine mounted mark, in the TWELVE O'CLOCK position. Align the camshaft sprocket mark, which I believe is an arrow, also in the TWELVE O'CLOCK position.

Install new timing belt as previously removed. Loosen the 10mm tensioner bolt, and allow the tensioner to TIGHTEN up the slack in the belt. Recheck the mark alignment on both sprockets. If it is off you will need to move the belt one tooth over accordingly.

Reassembly in just the reverse of removal. I hope this helps. Good luck, and Merry Christmas!!!!

Answer 2

First thing you are going to have to buy a new timing belt. that is a given. The car will never stay in time if the clogs are worn or ate off the belt.

Next locate the timing marks on your crank pulley and the timing marks on your camshaft pulley. They have to be aligned when you install new belt. After you get the belt on tighten the belt making sure the timing marks stay aligned. You want it tight but not too tight. Too tight you'll cause wear on your main bearings.

The way I usually do it when having to change timing belt and I have to loosen the motor mount to get the belt off is I find a piece of heavy ply wood or 1/2 plate wide enough for the whole belly pan to sit on without bending it when I jack the engine up. Then using my floor jack I would snug it up just a little. Next I would loosen the rear motor mount just a tak, Then I back off the front motor mount nut and remove it. Next I jack the motor up just enough to work the timing belt out, then I put the new timing belt loosely back on the clog pulleys. Next step I easy off the jack enough that I can start the motor mount bolt. After getting it started and snugged down. I let off the jack all the way then torque down the motor mounts.

If you are in doubt about where the timing marks are go to an automotive parts house and buy yourself a Haynes manual for your make and model of car. They are inexpensive and save a lot of trail and error.

Here is another little trick if this is your personal car and your mains or camshift bearing seals are leaking a little:
What I always did in that situation was leave the cover off is I could keep and eye on the belt. I would also put an extra belt over the motor mount so I all I would have to do is cut the old belt off and put the new belt on without having to jack up the engine. Or I would cut a slot in the cover at the bottom so the oil would drain out instead of collecting and getting on the belt. Remember this clogs belts or any belts for that matter don't take kindly to being oil soaked.

Answer 3

the timing belt keeps the crankshaft and pistons in time with the valves and camshaft. the belt needs to be in operable condition for the engine to work.

each cylinder has valves which open to deliver fuel, close to creat an internal combustion chamber and ignite the fuel mixture, and open again to remove the exhaust.

for this to all work in sync with the pistons and crankshaft that produce the power off that same cycle of internal combustion, the valve train is powered with a belt or chain attached directly to the crankshaft so that the two rotate at the same speed..

lucky for you you have an escort and not a honda. escort's a non-interference engine, meaning you don't risk any mechanical damage from a piston striking a valve if the timing belt breaks

just get the book and put a new belt on there and set the base timing. you'll have to disconnect all those pumps that are in there and the serpentine belt.

when you get the cover off there should be some marks on the crankshaft and camshafat pulleys. you need the book it'll have pictures how to align them and how to count the cogs and stuff to get the belt on there just right.

once you have your belt on, you'll have to make sure the engine's at #1 top dead centre if it wasn't already there when you aligned your marks. this puts the engine at the point of firing your #1 spark plug so you turn the rotor to point at the #1 cylinder too. do this by blocking the #1 spark plug hole with your thumb and hot wiring the starter thru the relay enough to just "bumping" it a short crank at a time. till you feel the compression stroke in that #1 cylinder. it's going to need spark so now you set the rotor to #1 and the engine will be in time.

then fine tune it with a timing light. you'll need to find the timing marks on your crankshaft, remove the spout connector which disables the computer's timing advance system so you can adjust it manually. and loosen the distributor hold down bolt just enough you can twist it with your hand. then with the gun plugged to the battery and your #1 spark plug wire, aim your gun at that mark and twist your distributor back and forth till the little mark starts to light up "in time" with your light. stop there, have your buddy kill the engine, tighten the distributor down, plug the spout back in, and you're in business.

Answer 4

you need to get a manual for this car, to see where the timing marks are. also... you need to see why the teeth are ripped from the old belt. i suspect the water pump locked up, and when the engine kept turning, all the timing belt teeth got destroyed.

Answer 5

Go to library and check out the Chilton's Manuel for your car and buy a new belt