pull out graphite shaft from golf club?

Answer 1

Here are instructions on how to do it:
Tools Required for Club Reshafting
* Heat gun or butane micro torch for painted clubheads
* For iron clubheads, a propane torch
* A sharp craft knife
* Replacement Ferrule
* Drill bit fine enough to fit into a graphite/steel shaft tip
* Hosel brush cleaner
* 2 part shafting epoxy
* Heat proof gloves
* A shaft puller, shaft clamp or a vice and a small pry bar

Firstly, remove the original grip if you intend reusing the shaft at a later date. If you have a replacement ferrule and do not wish to reuse the old one, use a craft knife and cut the ferrule off the shaft. If the clubhead is painted, adhere a few layers of masking tape along the exposed surface to protect it in case you slip while cutting the ferrule. Secure the shaft in the clamp, here I am using a shaft puller. You can also use a small shaft clamp held securely (but not too tight as you will crush the shaft) in an ordinary vice. If you are using the small clamp, leave 1cm to allow the pry bar to fit snuggly next to the neck of the hosel. If you have one, use a hosel collar to avoid scuffing the neck.

Put on your heatproof gloves as catching a hot head with bare hands, that has finally detached itself, is not a good idea. These days 99% of club heads are secured onto the shafts by epoxy glues. These have fantastic sheer strength however can be easily broken down with the gentle application of heat.Heads are made of different materials therefore the amount of time required to get them hot enough to break the epoxy bonds differs. Steel will keep the heat in a localized area longer than will titanium, so the titanium heads take longer to warm up enough to break the bond.As most titanium clubs are drivers or fairway woods they are likely to have paint and poly finishes which adds another element. Simply heating the head with a propane flame will burn the poly finish and leave you with a discoloured brown mess. Where there is paint involved a heat gun and patience, a lot of patience, is recommended to save the finish. Move the heat gun or micro torch quickly over the entire surface of the hosel so that no area gets "spot heated" which will also result in a brown finish. After applying heat for a few minutes use your pry bar and apply pressure to the neck of the hosel to try and slide the head down the shaft. If the shaft is graphite DO NOT TWIST the clubhead off the shaft, as it will destroy the graphite's structure. While heating you will usually see a little puff of smoke as the epoxy starts to give way. The head should then come off with a little effort. It is important to apply any pressure evenly, so as not to jerk the pry bar as this can have drastic consequences. Catch the head in your gloved hand, turn off your heating equipment and place it somewhere you will not be able to accidentally make contact with it. Now allow the head to cool down in a dust free environment.

Once the head has cooled, any remaining epoxy should be cleaned from the inside of the hosel. A hosel cleaning tool does an excellent job. Be thorough, as a clean surface is imperative in order for the new shaft to bond and any epoxy left inside can prevent this, resulting in the entire process having to be repeated. If you are reusing the shaft, drill out any remaining epoxy in the shaft to avoid an air bubble forming when it is set back into a hosel. This is also why we initially remove the grip to knock out epoxy swarf which otherwise can spend a lifetime rattling around in the shaft.

Well there it is. Sorry it is so long. Hope this helps. Happy Holidays!

Answer 2

Don't use a torch, you'll ruin the shaft, maybe even the head. Not sure if you are pulling the shaft(s) from a driver or irons, but here's how I do it:

Do do the job right, you'll need a shaft extraction tool, then:

1. Remove any ferrule (see below) as necessary. Secure the club in the Shaft Extractor by inserting the shaft in the rubber vise clamp and dialing the clamp down tightly. Determine the correct size slot on the hosel collar and slide it over the shaft against the hosel as shown.

2. Attach the socket to the tool and apply pressure by rotating the bolt out. Meanwhile, use a propane torch or the Electric Heat Gun to apply heat over all sides of the full length of the hosel. For thru-bore heads, concentrate more heat toward the heel of the club.

3. Continue applying heat and pressure with the pulling bolt until the epoxy bond is broken (Heat Gun may require 3 or more minutes; a torch works faster). As soon as the epoxy bond is broken the ratchet pressure will pull the head loose. Remove heat immediately. Clean residue from inside the hosel before reshafting.

Answer 3

1

Answer 4

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Answer 5

You have to heat up the hosel of the club and melt the clue and shold come out most of the time it does, it not break the shaft if you dont want to use it anymore and drill it out.

Answer 6

They have a tool called extractor the backs the head off. You can see a picture on it at the Shaft Puring Web site.

http://www.sstpure.com/index.html

Answer 7

Use a heat gun or being very careful you can use a torch, it wont hurt the shaft or clubhead.

Answer 8

if the grip is glued on the shaft and the shaft is attached, there is no way to get it out...sorry

Answer 9

yes ofcourse