after tuneup my 2000 ford windstar still goes dead at stops , why?

Question

i have already changed out spark plugs and wires, got oil change, changed filters, took to autozone and had battery & alternator ck.I am losing a lot of oil but it"s not leaking on ground, don't know where it is going.one person told me to change some 02 sensor ! mechanic told me to replace engine because previos owners had overheated it before i got it but it has not overheated on me. please help because i don't want to be taken advantage of.

Answer 1

please read & then re-read Rekel..'s answer! She knows what she is talking about!

I'd like to add that your first replacement of spark plugs (tune-up) wasn't required untill 100,000 miles & are covered under your "Emissions Warranty" for 8 years or 80,000 miles! If your mileage is under 80,000 miles, (you did not state mileage), & you are failing emmission tests, Ford would make most of these repairs FREE. Your Warranty Book explaines that. You may have paid Autozone for unnessary repairs/replacements that your Ford Dealer would have done for nothing.

Too late now, but I am curious...are you under 80,000 miles?
Does your vehicle pass emission test?
Please post additional details as to mileage & Emissions.

Answer 2

I agree with Ethol and rackel as these things are known for the air leak at the gakets they talk about, but you will see this more on a cold start (in other works the engine has cooled down between you running it more than say 8 hours) and will set the codes listed than kill the car.

The idle spped motor is one avenue... if the engine dies, try and see if it won't start, if it won't , hold your foot on the throttle a hair and retry.. if you have to keep your foot on the gas to keep it running, it is that motor.

You say you are loosing oil, How much oil? more than about 1 qt every 2000 is usually abnormal meaning gaskets leaks or internal problems... but usually the tailpipe will smoke like a dragon if you have that problem. (also that thing takes 5 3/4 qts of oil at an oil change... most mechanics don't know that... there are three years of windstars that are screwed up like that (taking almost a quart more at an oil change...) if I remember .. should be in the owners manual on the capacity... if not find a owners manual at www.fleet.ford.com



I say you need to bring it to a shop that deals in check engine light repair... Most mechanics know how to do basic check engine lights but only a few actually specialize in it (best bet would be a ford dealer or finding a shop in the yellow pages that say they specialize in driveability or check engine lights)


My guess is air leak from somewheres... If the jiffy lube guy didn't put your air filter box back on right if can cause these same issues... or a hose that is busted or leaking....

But I would have a second opinion (even third) before I would replace a motor on the word that it was overheated previously (there are usually tell-tell signs of overheating and usually you will loose coolant more than oil on those things...

But best thing is to bring it somewheres else.. But since I can't see the car, I'm only guessing at some of this...

Answer 3

It just dies when you stop?..my guess is the lock up feature on the transmittions torque converter , is not dis engaging.your all right while every thing is still turning, but when you stop, torque converter is still engaged to the trans mittion, and hills the engine.

If youe engine, does have any kind of fluid leak, it most deffinately will show up on the ground some ware. under that vehicle.
OK when your vans exhaust system has cooled off some, take your finger, and rub it around inside the tail pipe.
It will be black and sooty. But, if it also feels slimey and oiley also,, open your hood, after engine is cool, take the radaitor cap off, and see if there is oil in your anti freeze.
If there is, there may be some truth that your engine did over heat a lot. make a decession from there, cause the engine ought to be replaced, or get rid of the van.
If the oil level keeps going down, it is going some ware. That also means you are starting to get some big head aches with it now.

Answer 4

Sounds like you need a good mechanic for sure. Big difference in a tune up and an engine replacement recommendations. That said though, if the engine is not bad, I would simply have the idle speed motor checked as they are a huge problem on Fords. Causes the idle to screw up and since idle is when you are "stopped and idling" it can cause the engine to die at stops with the car in gear. They are relatively cheap, an easy job to change and would very likely fix it right up. Changed a bunch of them on Fords f(and most of ther cars) or just that reason. By the way on the oil issue, if you don't see any dripping on the concrete at your house or apartment, then has to be burning it. Still if the engine runs decent rest of the time and only dies at idle then doubt that it is a van on death row!! :-)

Answer 5

Do NOT listen to ANY of these idiots here. Do NOT waste another DIME in unecessary parts more than you already have. If the codes you are getting are P0171 & P0174 (system lean bank #1 & #2), it means you have a vacuum leak. All '99 to 2000 Windstars are known to have the rubber gaskets from the LOWER half of the upper intake leaking due to the rubber gaskets swelling up. This is also the cause of why you are losing so much oil. To fix the problem you are having PERMANTLY will require you replace the following parts: the LOWER half of the UPPER intake (Ford part # 2F2Z-9A589-AA), the rubber fuel pressure regulator hose (Ford part # 2F2Z-9E498-AA) and the left bank valve cover assembly (Ford part # 4U7Z-6582-A). I promise you that if you replace the said parts, it will fix ALL the problems you are having, the rough running, the oil consumption etc. These "people" that changed all those parts only TOOK your money. If you want a detailed explanation as to why you need those parts replaced, e-mail me and I'll be happy to explain to you why. Also, if you don't want the dealer to replace those parts, just buy those parts from the dealer parts department, and have the mechanic you trust to replace them. It's not a difficult job. Hope this helps.

Answer 6

Go back to auto zone and have them run a diagnostic check on it (they do it for free) that will determine your dead at the stop problem. It can be an O2 sensor (oxygen sensor) or it can be that you have slipped time and you need to replace the timing belt.

As for the oil loss, if you absolutely cannot find where it is leaking (and crawl underneath and see). Many times it will leak slowly and not much hits the ground, but the whole undercarriage will be coated with it. Well, if that is not the case, you are burning it. Do you see blue smoke when you drive it? Have someone follow you. Or check your tail pipe. When the car is cold, run your finger in the tail pipe--is it oily? If it is black, but dry, that is just carbon and is O.K., but if it is oily, you are burning the oil.

Answer 7

Sounds like a vacuum leak based on the minimal info you gave. Look at all the rubber spaghetti under the hood and see if any of them are cracked or not connected.

The oil loss is not good. Most likely losing it through the tailpipe. Blown gasket..That is bad. That may have clogged up your catalytic converter causing the stall. For giggles take it to a reputable dealer and see what they want to jack you for

Answer 8

you may try cleaning the air intake at the butterfly,, it has a bypass to let enough air thru at idle.. they get cloged up.. also the pvc valve may be causeing the oil lost and clogging the bypass..

Answer 9

locate and replace the charging gadget fuse.Yeah, that sucker's demanding to locate. it truly is to make you purchase a sparkling battery and alternator that you somewhat do not choose. replace the fuse from 5 amps to fifteen amps.

Answer 10

Because it's a FORD. Once you get this fixed it will start to
pre-ignite. That's always fun too.