A strip of paint is peeling at the top of my shower stall.?

Question

I want to paint my bathroom, but at the top of my tub enclosure, there is a 2 1/2 strip all the way around that has mostly detached. I am afraid to remove it because I don't know how to fix it, I know it's the tape. What do I do do fix this problem? Did they (who ever did this job) put the wrong pain on it after taping, did they use the wrong tape? If they used the wrong tape, what is the right one? If it's the wrong paint, what is the correct paint?
I didn't think it mattered what kind of paint you used in the bathroom, I know it would matter if you used wallpaper, but not paint.
Maybe they used the wrong cauking? I know there is special cauking that is made especially for the bathroom (where there is water) was that the problem? Please let me know. I want to paint the bathroom but can't till I solve this problem.
Thanks for any answers.
joyce

Answer 1

What is the strip? Is it paint, wallpaper, drywall, or what? Do you have a prefabricated fiberglass tub enclosure?

I'm going to make a guess that you have a prefabricated tub, which has a flange along the top that is attached to the studs with screws. The builder may have cut the drywall over the tub 2 1/2" short of the tub rather than overlap the flange, because the flange would hold the drywall out from the studs about 1/4 inch. The man who taped the drywall probably filled in this gap with premixed drywall mud, and may have put tape over the joint.

This is not very good construction, because premixed drywall mud is not that waterproof. What you'll need to do is to remove all the mud in the gap between the drywall and the tub. Replace it with a quick-setting mud that you have to mix yourself from powder. Don't get a formula that sets too fast; a 45 minute formulation should be ok. Tape the joint after the mud has set, using paper or fiberglass tape. Use general purpose taping compound or the 45 minute formula. Don't use a topping compound or spackle for taping because they don't adhere as well. However, you can use topping compound after the tape has set to feather out the joint. Finish the job with spray texture from a can to match the existing drywall texture.

When you repaint, I suggest that you rough up the surface of the existing paint by lightly sanding, or by using a deglosser from your paint store. The new paint may not stick well if you don't do this. Give it a coat of primer and then two finish coats of paint. I personally use a semi-gloss enamel (alkyd) paint in the bathroom, but I image there are water-based paints that will perform as well. Talk to your paint dealer and make sure you buy a quality paint. The bathroom is not a place for cheap paint.

To minimize the chance of future problems, make sure that you have adequate ventilation, either an open window or an exhaust fan. Keep the humidity down!

Answer 2

1) bathrooms are wet and they need special painting products. Semi-gloss used in kitchens & baths, etc. Talk to someone at Home Depot or Lowes about what you need. Also, describe your tape problem. Seems to me your going to need sandpaper to get started, but I'm not a painter.

2) get a couple quotes from reputable painters in the area. In the process of getting the quote, you may learn something about the peeling tape. A handyman who does painting (ask the question before having him come out) will also tell you what's going on. Then, you decide if you can handle the job yourself.

Answer 3

I cracked a few of mine, and now I have "wrecked-tile dysfunction"