Hey Marie,
D-76/ID-11
D-76 is probably the single most used developer for black and white work. D-76 is the version marketed by Kodak. ID-11, sold by Ilford, is an identical formulation. D-76 comes as a powder, which you dissolve in water to produce what is called the ‘stock’ solution.
Many people use D-76 diluted 1+1, which means that you mix the stock solution and water in equal parts to produce the working solution. When used in this way, D-76 produces slightly sharper negatives and very slightly larger grain.
Tmax
Tmax developer was produced by Kodak to be used primarily when ‘pushing’ film. Pushing means over-developing film to compensate for underexposing it. Although it can be used for general film developing, it's probably not the best choice.
Tmax-RS
Despite the name similarity to Tmax developer, Tmax-RS is a different developer. It produces moderate grain and excellent tonality when diluted 1+9, and I use this combination for developing all my 4x5 film.
XTOL
XTOL is a developer recently introduced by Kodak, and includes sodium isoascorbate (vitamin C) as a developing agent. It produces very fine grain, a pleasing tonal distribution like that of D-76, and comes as a powder than can be more easily dissolved than D-76. XTOL is an excellent choice for a general-purpose developer.
HC-110
HC-110 is a general-purpose film developer that comes as a liquid concentrate (and thus is more pleasant to use than the powders). It produces fine grain and good sharpness, and is widely used.
Rodinal
Rodinal is one of the oldest developer formulations, and is still widely used. It produces fairly large grain but very high sharpness. Rodinal comes as a liquid concentrate which can be stored for long periods without going bad.
Stop Bath
Stop bath for film development is generally a dilute solution of acetic acid. Acetic acid is essentially very pure white vinegar. Some people have a strong dislike for the smell of acetic acid and use citric acid instead.
Kodak markets a popular stop bath which consists of acetic acid and an indicator that turns from yellow to purple when the stop bath is exhausted. Stop bath is so cheap, however, that it makes little sense to use it more than once, and I find that the simplest thing is to buy acetic acid in bulk and dilute it. Some people like the indicator stop because the yellow indicator gives it a very distinctive color which can prevent confusion in the darkroom.
Fixer
For film development, it’s best to use an ammonium thiosulphate based ‘rapid’ fixer. This is particularly true for Kodak’s Tmax films, which are very hard on fixer. I generally use Kodak Rapid Fixer. Heico’s NH-5 is essentially the same product and is slightly cheaper when bought in quantity.
Hypo Clearing Agent
Using a wash aid like Kodak’s Hypo Clearing Agent will substantially reduce the time and water needed to wash film after development. Most companies produce some sort of wash aid in their lineup. I use either Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent or Heico Permawash, whichever is currently cheapest. Permawash has the advantage that it comes as a liquid concentrate, which is easier to handle.
2006-12-10 13:17:17
·
answer #1
·
answered by BuyTheSeaProperty 7
·
3⤊
0⤋
What? What the hell is a white title, oh you imply a reputation from the English language versus a reputation from an African language. Nobody has a patent on names, and there's no such factor as white and black names. And ninety nine percentage of individuals could not care much less what you name your self, or believe oh that's a white or black title, once they listen someones title.
2016-09-03 08:43:18
·
answer #2
·
answered by ? 4
·
0⤊
0⤋
Developer, stop bath, fixer, wash, hypo clear...
GO to this link and take it from there.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=NavBar&A=FetchChildren&Q=&ci=576
2006-12-10 13:16:53
·
answer #3
·
answered by Picture Taker 7
·
0⤊
0⤋
TMax developer for Tmax film....or D76 for other Kodak B&W film......
2006-12-13 15:56:11
·
answer #4
·
answered by Giostanni P 2
·
0⤊
0⤋