1971 DODGE DART. Is the float in the carb. brass,or plastic?can gas get inside?do I have to replace points?

Question

I have replaced the spark plugs on my 1971 DODGE DART.how about the plug wires,cap and rotor,and points?Is it hard to rebuild the carb?Does a carb. kit cost alot?Can my float/needel and seat stick and flood the crankcase?Is it possible to have to small of a fuel fillter installed and the fuel pump pumping more fuel than needed ond than damage the gaskets of the carb?There is a few wet spots on the sides of my carb.why is this?When replacing the front brakes,is it neccessary to bleed the brakes?How do I check to see if my gas gauge in the dash is broken or if the gauge in the tank is?One more thing,the same car my 1971 DODGE DART,It turns further one way,and not as far in the other,what could cause this? THANK YOU and MERRY CRISTMAS TO ALL. PEACE!

Answer 1

a carb kit is about 20$ and the rebuild is not that hard to do.

start by identifying the exact model/year of your carb. then put it in a parts cleaner or soak it in a bucket of parts cleaner while you find a rebuild kit.

then find a clean quiet place to work and take your time, and when the carb is rebuilt, you wil have gained a wealth of knowledge.

if your float is sticking you can try cleaning it with some carb cleaner, but i think your idea of a carb rebuild is a good one. then you'll know all about carbs, and you'll be secure knowing your carb is 100%

just make sure you get the correct kit. especially those 70's carbs, emissions rules kept changing, and carbs had to change from year to year. so you need to have the exact carb kit iwth the right gaskets and seals for whatever emissions set-up was used on your model year. just take your time you won't have any trouble

if the fuel pump is pumping too much fuel, get a fuel pressure regulator, and set it to 6-7 psi as required by your carb and engine's fuel needs. but having a working float should clear up that problem. remember that a new float is not included in most carb rebuild kits, so buy that as well.

if your car's not turning left or right well, check for collision damage in the front end. maybe something's blocking the wheel on th side it doesn't want to turn. start the car and have a buddy turn the wheel while you look under the hood to see what's going on and what's holding up the show.

you don't need to bleed the brakes if you're just changing the pads. you only need to bleed them if you open up the hydraulic system to change the fluid and allow air to enter there. but if you don't disconnect the brake cylinders from the lines, then there's no air getting in there. it just depends on you, whether you think the old fluid needs to be replaced

Answer 2

Can my float/needel and seat stick and flood the crankcase? Answer: Yes the needle and seat can stick and cause the engine to flood and be hard to start. The diaphram in the fuel pump can have a hole in it. This will cause gas to fill the crankcase. If this happens (Danger) the oil must be changed immediately. Any spark can cause it to blow up. I've had this happen.

Is it possible to have to small of a fuel fillter installed and the fuel pump pumping more fuel than needed ond than damage the gaskets of the carb. Answer: The fuel pump pressure is controlled by cocking a spring. The pump lever cocks the spring and the spring pushes on the diaphram. Then the fuel goes to the needle and seat, which shuts off the flow of fuel when the float bowl is full. There is no pressure on the inside of the carburetor.

There is a few wet spots on the sides of my carb.why is this?
Answer: If the needle and seat leak , the outside of the carb. will be wet. not damp.
Is it possible to have to small of a fuel fillter installed Answer: The size of the fuel filter only determines how often it needs to be changed.

I have replaced the spark plugs on my 1971 DODGE DART.how about the plug wires,cap and rotor,and points?
Answer: The first thing I check for is the spark. It was always part of a tune-up plugs ,points and condenser. The reason being that the cam follower on the points wares down and the points close and burn. Condensers either work or don't work. I have installed new ones that were no good. With good ignition most engines will start.

How do I check to see if my gas gauge in the dash is broken or if the gauge in the tank is?
Answer: Take the wire off of the sending unit and ground it with the ignition on the guage should read full. If it does the sending unit is bad.
(type sending unit in to google to find a replacement.)

When replacing the front brakes,is it neccessary to bleed the brakes?
Answer: You only have to bleed the hydraulic system if you disturb the fluid. If you are careful and don't push on the pedal with the drums off then no.

One more thing,the same car my 1971 DODGE DART,It turns further one way,and not as far in the other,what could cause this?


Answer: If I remember correctly there are adjustable stops on the wheels. Maybe one of them is missing. Other wise check all of the linkage you may find a drag link adjusted wrong, Or the pitman arm installed wrong. Last but not least as old as the car is it could have the wrong part on it.
and Merry Christmas to you and best of health.

Answer 3

If memory serves, Chryselr went all electronic ignition in 71. First year for it I think. that would do away with the problem of points and condenser but popping the cap will tell you in a New York second. Floats are available either way on those carbs from companies such as Hygrade, Borg Warner, etc. Yes gas can get into the brass ones, and the plastic ones have a clear coating that if goes bad then the black plastic foam absorbs gas and they ruin as well. Easy to rebuild a carb with a gallon of carb cleaner (not the spray bottles) and a bit of time. Take it all apart as pictured in the paper guide that comes with the carb kit, and soak all the parts except plastic or rubber overnight. Clean all the gasket surfaces and reassembly as the guide shows. Adjust the idle mixture screws 1/2 to 2 turns from all the way in and that should allow it to start and warm up enough to then adjust it properly as your manual says. Fuel pumps can actually go bad and pump "too much" fuel on older cars as well. Usually the problem is just the opposite, but there are check valves in them and it they get jammed they can pump too much pressure and force gas into the carb. I bet though that if you take the hoses and carb apart you will find a piece of rubber has come out of the old hoses and jammed the needle and seat open on the carb. As others have described well brakes should not require bleeding unless you opened the hyraulic system in any way other than taking the cap off the master cylinder. Fuel filter on those is a standard filter and don't forget that if this car has been off the road for some time there is also a "sock" type filter in the bottom of the fuel tank that can gum up over the years and cause the pump to loose suction when you are driving. If it has been on the road regularly though that is most likely not a problem. Good Luck with a fun classic car and hope it gets to running good real soon!

Answer 4

1. Yes, points, condenser, rotor, wires, and cap should be changed with your tune up. 2. I've never seen that happen on a carburated motor. Your fuel pump may be leaking into the block. 3. Carbs can be tricky to rebuild, I found that out from experience. 4. Your wet spots are likely from gaskets leaking, carb kits aren't that expensive, but are tricky. 5. It is always necessary to bleed your brakes, drum brakes need to be adjusted, disc just need to be bled. 6. The sender in the tank is likely your problem. 7, In the past someone must have done front end work and either didn't align the front end right or the Pittman arm isn't installed correct (I'm not a Dodge person so I can't say if that is possible). Good luck.

Answer 5

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