12" Kicker L7, with 1800 watt amp?

Question

It is an 1800 watt rockford fosgate punch, mono. I have the bass turned all the way up, as well as the gain, but it doesnt sound like its hittin right, it still hits, but not as much as it should. Whats the problem? The sub is bridged on the amp, giving it more power (i guess?). Friends hooked it up, I dont know the first thing about subs, any info would help. Here's the site 4 the amp (says P6001db on amp).

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.asp?cat_id=2&series_id=6&family_id=19&item_id=96761&locale=en_US&p_status=

I have a capacitor, but have yet to hook it up. Hmmm the amp is only 600? friend sold it to me, swore it was an 1800. And I have only ONE L7, not two.

Box is from PTI (pitbull technology?), It is big, almost looks big enough for two but isnt, it isnt vented though. BTW, I paid 200 for the sub w/box, and the amp for 200 as well, both used, good deal or not?

Your wiring pic is confusing, as my amp as 2 +'s and 2 -'s.

Answer 1

Try a capacitor: A capacitor is a bit similar to your car battery; it stores electrical energy. But unlike a battery it doesn't produce its own power, it simply stores it. A car audio capacitor will help you get the most from your amplifier. It will store power for release on demand, delivering it to your amplifier just when it's needed. A car amplifier requires a lot of power to play loud music, especially when there's lots of heavy bass. Without a capacitor your amplifier will be robbed of power by parts like your lights, engine, and air conditioner.

Answer 2

TURN THAT GAIN DOWN (bigger number) or you will severly damage that sub. The gain should match the RMS Volts of the HU.

Always go by RMS watts when configuring power. The 1800 is MAX (Peak) and is rarely ever reached. RMS is the continuous power an amp produces or what a sub can handle.

Most amps read this way, P6001 where the 600 is the watts RMS and 1 is the number of channels. However, this at a 2 ohm load.

300 W x 1 @ 4 Ohms RMS
600 W x 1 @ 2 Ohms RMS

So at 4 ohms (most SVC subs), it's only pushing 300 watts RMS. If your sub is a DVC 4 ohm, then it needs to wired like this:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j230/sparky3489/SINGLE-PARALLEL.jpg

...to get the 2 ohm load. But this is still a far cry as what that sub can handle.

Also the wrong enclosure can make a difference in sound.

http://spkrbox1.spaces.live.com

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Look to Kicker for proper enclosure sizes for a sealed box and see if your box meets the criteria.

I would say what you paid isn't bad, but it is a total mismatch of sub and amp.

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That amp is a mono, right? If it is then both (+) and both (-) are the same connection each on the amp. Meaning there is no difference between the two (+)'s or (-)'s.

Wiring one coil from the sub to one set of sub connections on the amp, and doing the same for the other, is the same as my diagram electrically. It's refered to as a parallel connection.

So whether you wire each (+)'s of the sub and amp and each (-)'s, it's exactly the same in my diagram.

Answer 3

Yes the amp is 600w RMS at 2 ohms. If the box is sealed, it shouldn't be much bigger than 1.5 ft^3. If its too big then the sub might be bottoming out at relatively low volume levels. Getting the amp for $200 was a bad deal, because you can get a brand new one at almost the same price (roughly $240?). If everything is wired correctly, the problem could lie in the box being too big. Try getting/building a new one.

Answer 4

first off that amp only put out 600 watts rms. your subs need 750 watts a piece. second, i would make sure both woofers are in phase. if there out of phase one sub is pushing air out, while one is pushing air in. that means there working against each other. go back at make sure the the wiring is not hooked up wrong to the sub. ie + is going to + and - is going to -.