Your stud wall if its properly made should consist of Verticals (about 16" apart) and "Noggins" (horizontal about 24" apart) These will create separate "cells" within the wall, and no amount of blown in insulation will penetrate each cell. Sorry, but your best and easiest bet is to remove the plasterboard on one side, then fill each 'cell' with a rockwool'batt' (Wickes) then replace plasterboard(Taper Edge Plasterboard from Wickes). TE plasterboard has the advantage of the taper, which allows you to skrim tape the joints, then fill the remaining hollow (polyfilla, Wickes) run a flat sander over, and you are ready to decorate.
2006-11-30 23:40:50
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answer #1
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answered by johncob 5
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Hi, Paul. Answering this question accurately would require a little more information. Such as: "How much wall space needs sound dampening?" "Are these walls interior or exterior?" "Are your walls old construction plaster and lath or new construction sheetrock on studs?" If you've got a lot of wall space that needs dampening, drilling holes and pumping in expanding foam could be more of a mess than simply pulling off the sheetrock. For one, most walls have fire blocking half way up and sometimes in two places. This blocking would prevent the expanding foam from spreading through the rest of the stud bay. Knowing exactley where the fire blocking is anyones guess. Also, patching all the holes would be a pain. I would suggest pulling off the sheetrock, insulating it with either professional spray foam (expanding foam), ridgid insulation or regular pink batting. Sheetrock is easy to hang and easy to clean up. However, if you've got old plaster and lath, you're looking at a lot more work and a far bigger mess. Either way, If you really want some sound reduction you'll have best results by pulling off the sheetrock/plaster.
2006-11-30 08:53:12
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answer #2
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answered by negativeCREEP 1
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That foam can expand really powerfully and cause problems. I have seen it damage plasterboard before, even push a window sill out.
If you don't want to pull of the exisiting plasterboard- which would actually be the best method, because I bet there is little or no insulation- then you'd be better making up some framing and putting up a second wall over the first one, with more adequate insulation in between. Even then, there is not a 100% guarantee of success. Sound insulation is a nightmare. Even the professional installers will not guarantee a reduction in sound levels.
2006-11-30 08:50:49
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answer #3
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answered by Not Ecky Boy 6
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I agree with johncob. Rock or Mineral wool is extremely good for blocking sound. Better than any other common material, because of it's high density. Get a stud finder at the hardware store <$10. Then you can tell where the cavities in your wall are. This wool can be blown-in, and the holes plastered. Overall the easiest and most effective method.
2006-12-01 19:20:25
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answer #4
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answered by charley128 5
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blown in cellulose insulation will work great. if you can get in the attic just drill holes to access the studs and you will not even have to patch holes this way. you will be able to see the top of the wall where it comes up to the roof trusses. you may want to dampen the insulation so it falls to the bottom of the stud easier, otherwise the insulation will settle leaving a gap at the top. some places offer a free rental of the blower if you buy so many bags of insulation
2006-11-30 08:48:33
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answer #5
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answered by s l 1
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Expanding Foam Sound Insulation
2016-12-12 10:08:03
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answer #6
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answered by Anonymous
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A second layer of drywall will do wonders. I've also carpeted the wall and that worked well. Like a wall tapistry. If you use the foam be aware of fire blocking in the wall and it's very easy to blow the drywall out on either or both sides of the wall if the foam doesn't have enough space to expand in.
2006-11-30 08:34:22
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answer #7
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answered by xo_heartbeat_xo@verizon.net 3
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careful with that expanding foam--it can literally burst walls apart if you put in too much, let someone with experience do it. in my basement i put up 4x8 sheets of 3/4 inch solid foamboard insulation over the existing wall cuz i didnt want to tear off the gyprock. i then covered the foamboard with 1/4 inch 4x8 sheets of particleboard. put thick vinyl wallpaper over this to hide the seams. it helped a lot . but if you want a nice smooth paintable surface youll have to use gyprock. by the way, i didnt use 1 single nail. everything was glued--be sure and use the glue specially formulated for foamboard.
2006-11-30 11:05:41
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answer #8
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answered by mickey 5
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Resheet on top of existing boards with soundproof plasterboard.
2006-12-01 10:55:43
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answer #9
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answered by Anonymous
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sORRY M8TY. pULL off the jibrock, install insullation, replace wallboard with thicker material ie,3/4 instead of 3/8
2006-11-30 08:37:08
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answer #10
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answered by S.A.M. Gunner 7212 6
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