a question for hairdressers- am i doing the right thing? i need your help!?

Question

i am a trainee hairdresser and am about to colour a freinds hair next week. she is about a base 6/7 naturally, has about an inch regrowth and the resat of her hair is quite blonde where shes previously had it coloured. she's wanting it all blonde so i was thinking of using bleach as it needs lifting. using 12% on the roots and 9% on the already blonde bits. however she says her hair normally turns really orange/ginger and has been told she has red tones in her natural hair which makes it do this. what would be the best toner to use to tone the bleach? i work with wella koleston colours and picked up 12/16 but dont no whether that will work as it is ash. please help me! thanks x x

Answer 1

deal with the hair in 2 separate ways. Touch up the roots with the bleach (9% to work slowly) and lift it to the level of the ends as best you can. Then use the ash toner color only on the roots that you touched up. Remember that the ends are bleached and will suck up the ash base. After that process the roots and ends should look good. The color she used last time should be good if the end results were good. I don't like to use 9% or anything harsh on the ends because bleached ends will always fade. Semi permanent color as a toner lasts just as long on bleached hair. Some people will say use a color filler on the ends. I have found that it fades just as fast. You will have to use ash on the roots, but I hope the ends are looking good and don't need a toner. Shampooing the hair will get a little color on the ends and even out everything. Don't leave ash toner on the ends for a long time. shampoo quickly. The important thing is to lift the roots to the same level as the ends. Use only 9% (20 volume) to bleach the roots. Also, a level 6/7 can be lifted to a 9 with good high lift ash tint. Framesi 11 silver is amazing. Ask you friend if she was using tint or bleach last time. Also there is a blue bleach. that is bleach with toner(if you want a level 10). Touch up the roots with that and then comb it thru for a minute or more after the roots have lifted to the desired level. Try not to use color on the ends after the initial color job. Bleached ends will fade. nothing you can do. Lift it once to the desired level, and don't mess with the ends if you can.